On my 2.8 / 4 spd replacement: When removing the flywheel I noticed some rub marks on the back of the fly wheel and on the front of the block around the crank.
Digging through my old parts i found a shim form an auto flywheel. Should I use it?

It's rather thick, like 1/8" how would this affect the clutch engagement?
Does it push the clutch engagement to the top of the peddle?

You're use the wrong flywheel, dirt, bent the dirt shield and hitting the flywheel, Or Crankshaft need main bearing replacement ASAP.

No. Is not a shim for clutch. Shim for a clutch is small, like 0.010 to 0.050 inch. Shim made up for lathe work.
Yes. Maybe cause trouble with the clutch and starter. Need longer bolt too.

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I see auto zone offers shims in .25 and .50 what would installing a shim do for the clutch?
I'm sure the fly wheel has been turned down a number of times.

quote Originally posted by Seanpaul: I see auto zone offers shims in .25 and .50 what would installing a shim do for the clutch? I'm sure the fly wheel has been turned down a number of times.

Gotta stick a "0" in there... .025 & .050 !

The shims go between the flywheel & the crank to make up for machining the face down.
This puts the angular relationship between the clutch plate, and the release bearing back into harmony.

Think of it in extremes. Move the clutch towards the engine say 2" (obviously impossible!).
The release arm would have to tilt over so far, that there would be no more travel in the arc.
Shimming the flywheel puts it back closer to the top of the swing, so you get max release, with minimal arc swing.
The real problem I've always had, and have never solved, is just HOW thick was an original flywheel?
I get cars rolling through my shop all the time, and all I can do is look at it and take a guess at how thin it's become over the last 25 years.

I just read this resently and my eyes were not playing tricks on me, there is a variation in a certain early 60 degree V6 cranks relative to the newer cranks where the flange is indeed a little shorter in length and a spacer was indicated for use with it. I do not recall it being in a forum discussion or anything of the sort to give the impression it was speculation, I believe I was tracking down a part. I visit so many sites looking for information that I do not recall the location of where I read it but I did read it. Whether that's the case here I don't know, just wanted to put the information out as I was surprised when I read it.

quote Originally posted by watts: Gotta stick a "0" in there... .025 & .050 ! The shims go between the flywheel & the crank to make up for machining the face down. This puts the angular relationship between the clutch plate, and the release bearing back into harmony. Think of it in extremes. Move the clutch towards the engine say 2" (obviously impossible!). The release arm would have to tilt over so far, that there would be no more travel in the arc. Shimming the flywheel puts it back closer to the top of the swing, so you get max release, with minimal arc swing. The real problem I've always had, and have never solved, is just HOW thick was an original flywheel? I get cars rolling through my shop all the time, and all I can do is look at it and take a guess at how thin it's become over the last 25 years.

So what does that do to the pedal? Does it put it closer to the floor, or to the top?
Or is that all just a matter of pedal adjustment?

[This message has been edited by Seanpaul (edited 01-21-2010).]