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Question for welding on a frame by countach711
Started on: 01-18-2010 10:18 PM
Replies: 8
Last post by: countach711 on 02-25-2010 12:05 AM
countach711
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Report this Post01-18-2010 10:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for countach711Click Here to visit countach711's HomePageSend a Private Message to countach711Direct Link to This Post
I got a great tip from a friend on improving the Fiero frame that I had to cut the top off of for my kitcar. He had built a convertible Fiero and also needed to reinforce his frame. Rather than building an 'X' under the car like most folks seem to do, he welded in 2x2 heavy wall (1/8"+ thick) steel tubing where the water pipes run, then ran the water tube through the tubing. Friggin' brilliant. Much easier than dealing with an 'X' which would need to be made as a bolt-in to allow access to the gas tank.
It also gives a great support for jacking the car up, which is sadly lacking on the Fiero, and it protects the water tubes when jacking as well, and we all know that some mechanics can dent them rather severely when working on our cars. One negative is that it does stick down below the frame lip by about 1/2" to 3/4", but not enough to bottom out on and not very noticeable. I'm not using the heavy gauge steel, I think mine is 16 gauge, but since most of the metal making up the Fiero's frame is probably not more than 18 or 20 gauge, it seems more appropriate to me.
I have decided to take out the gas tank when doing this. My question is this: can I put the tank back in when I am doing some of the more peripherial welding, like on the front and rear of the car? It may take some time to get all my brackets made and I'd like to start the car every so often to keep the engine in running condition. Also, I removed the computer and disconnected the battery. Should I continue to make sure I do those 2 things as I continue welding? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Report this Post01-19-2010 07:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruDirect Link to This Post
On the last roadster I assisted with, we discussed using this method with the coolant tubes being integrated into the lower beams, but decided against it for rust and potential leak issues.

Instead we went the more common route of cutting open the rocker panel and installing a 2x3x1/8" wall tube along with sections that go up the front and back of the fiero chasiss. To resist torsional motion, the fuel tank tunnel was framed in on the bottom side with crossmembers that are welded to the front/rear subframe sturcture and a 1/8" plate will be bolted to it to completly cap the fuel tank area.





We are about 85% done and just need to finish up all the final welding and add some gusset panels to a few areas. The rear 2x3 crossmember in the fuel tank tunnel will have gussets down to the double firewall section and then the center will be cut out to ease fuel tank removal..
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ltlfrari
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Report this Post01-19-2010 07:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
On your frame (I turned the pic upside down so the car is the 'right way up'), don't the front and rear uprights of that reinforcing interfere with the body panels or is this a rebody?



When I replaced my rusted out rocker panel I originally left the tube protruding at he ends but I found both the front fender and the rear quarter panel curve around the lower corners of the bodywork so the box section was in the way.

What I started with:


What I ended up with (not a very good pic of the finished new rocker):



Basically I cut the box section to length and plated in the ends so that the sheet metal followed the original contours of the body metalwork. The original panel mounting holes are still there and the panels all fasten up as they should.

------------------
Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

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Report this Post01-19-2010 08:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ltlfrari:

On your frame (I turned the pic upside down so the car is the 'right way up'), don't the front and rear uprights of that reinforcing interfere with the body panels or is this a rebody?



The front/rear uprights are flush with the original fiero structure. In the front, we cut the pocket section for the tube to slide down into and at the rear the tube comes up directly under the upper frame rails. Both front and rear clears the stock wheel wells and the rear clears the fuel fill. One of the door hinges will need the corner trimmed and the 88 expansion tank on the passenger side will need shimmed outward or relocated depending on what the body panels will allow.



The only interferance to a stock bodied car will be the tube being alongside the spot weld flange the OEM rockers attach to as well as the lower point on the front fender.... Yes, this is car is destined to be a rebody.

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Report this Post01-19-2010 08:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 82-T/A [At Work]Send a Private Message to 82-T/A [At Work]Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by countach711:

I got a great tip from a friend on improving the Fiero frame that I had to cut the top off of for my kitcar. He had built a convertible Fiero and also needed to reinforce his frame. Rather than building an 'X' under the car like most folks seem to do, he welded in 2x2 heavy wall (1/8"+ thick) steel tubing where the water pipes run, then ran the water tube through the tubing. Friggin' brilliant. Much easier than dealing with an 'X' which would need to be made as a bolt-in to allow access to the gas tank.
It also gives a great support for jacking the car up, which is sadly lacking on the Fiero, and it protects the water tubes when jacking as well, and we all know that some mechanics can dent them rather severely when working on our cars. One negative is that it does stick down below the frame lip by about 1/2" to 3/4", but not enough to bottom out on and not very noticeable. I'm not using the heavy gauge steel, I think mine is 16 gauge, but since most of the metal making up the Fiero's frame is probably not more than 18 or 20 gauge, it seems more appropriate to me.
I have decided to take out the gas tank when doing this. My question is this: can I put the tank back in when I am doing some of the more peripherial welding, like on the front and rear of the car? It may take some time to get all my brackets made and I'd like to start the car every so often to keep the engine in running condition. Also, I removed the computer and disconnected the battery. Should I continue to make sure I do those 2 things as I continue welding? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


If the tank is empty, it shouldn't be a problem. Open it up, drain it completely, and let it sit out in the sun (dry air) for a day... it should be good to go.

Sounds like a good idea though. I like the pictures in the post just below yours (one above mine).

------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

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ltlfrari
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Report this Post01-19-2010 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
Ah, I see what you've done now.
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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post01-19-2010 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
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countach711
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Report this Post01-19-2010 06:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for countach711Click Here to visit countach711's HomePageSend a Private Message to countach711Direct Link to This Post
thanks for all the replys guys. I hadn't intended this to be about how to reinforce a frame, although there is lots of great info and ideas there. Thanks for the comments about drying out the tank. Anyone else have comments regarding gas tanks (with gas) and electronics in cars and frame welding?
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countach711
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Report this Post02-25-2010 12:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for countach711Click Here to visit countach711's HomePageSend a Private Message to countach711Direct Link to This Post
WEll, since it got off topic I thought I'd show what I am doing so far. The rear part of the bumper that sticks out fits between the taillights against the rear fascia and I can still fit the tailights in place. I also welded 2x2 where the water tubes go & then ran the tubes through the steel.







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