alright guys. I just replaced the lower intake gasket the upper intake gasket, all the vacuum lines, all the sensors. the only sensor that is stock is the coolant temp sensor. I think it works since my temp gauge works. I really need some help here...any one in the chicago land area that works on these cars?

I really need help. The car is stuck at 3K idling...Please help out guys. I really don't want to drop my project car off at a shop and have them work on it..would kinda defeat the purpose of having a project car...

I didn't read the entire thread but I see where your idle speed varies, 1500, 2500, 3000, 4000 etc. Vacuum leaks would be the first thing I would have told you to check too. Since it seems you have that pretty well covered, one thing I didn't see mentioned is a sticking throttle cable. Could even be the throttle plate shaft is binding for some reason or a broken return spring not letting it return to the closed position. You might look at those, see if there's a problem.

Mike

maybe a long shot but would a bad ECM or possibly the coolant temp sensor? My dad was telling me that a bad computer can also cause the car to dump more fuel into the car causing it to run rich and idle faster same thing with the coolant sensor. I have an air fuel ration gauge in my car and it shows the car is running rich when idling at 3k.

Also i do not have the coolant lines running to my throttle Body. Should i be concerned?

well i have all the new sensors installed and a completely dead battery. Ohh joy...I am praying this car will idle the way its suppose to..if not i'm going to have to drop it off somewhere, I really don't want to do that to be honest...I hope some one has some good input if this doesn't work...


does anyone have a diagram of the Vacuum lines for the car? Thanks

[This message has been edited by WTFRACING88 (edited 01-07-2010).]

quote Originally posted by WTFRACING88: does anyone have a diagram of the Vacuum lines for the car? Thanks

There should be a basic diagram on the sticker on the underside of your deck lid.

unfortunately the owner before me decided to tear off any useful stickers there may have been on the car

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/095297.html

V6 is at the top and the L4 is down the thread a bit.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 01-07-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Jonesy: I put a ADS super chip in mine...

Why? No 'performance' chip for the Fiero V6 is worth the gum stuck to the bottom of a picnic table... if you are idling that high, there is something wrong with your car whether it bothers you or not...

alright i covered up the throttle body and starting pinching lines again. found one and traced it. it runs to the EGR tube, and i ended up finding out the steel tube running to the intake manifold is shot....

the 100 dollar tube is shot. It even looked to be in good condition.

[This message has been edited by WTFRACING88 (edited 01-07-2010).]

quote Originally posted by WTFRACING88: alright i covered up the throttle body and starting pinching lines again. found one and traced it. it runs to the EGR tube, and i ended up finding out the steel tube running to the intake manifold is shot.... the 100 dollar tube is shot. It even looked to be in good condition.

If it's the stock one that is a very common occurrence. That would be a major vacuum leak

it is actually the aftermarket one from the fierstore. Just didn't hold up i guess...it looked to be in good condition and when i put my ear to it and then a pipe to it to listen to it and it pretty much sucked my ear off..

quote Originally posted by WTFRACING88: alright i covered up the throttle body and starting pinching lines again. found one and traced it. it runs to the EGR tube, and i ended up finding out the steel tube running to the intake manifold is shot.... the 100 dollar tube is shot. It even looked to be in good condition.

Not to rub it in, but that was suggested to you in the second reply to your original post back on page 1.

quote Originally posted by 2farnorth: If it's 2.8 then I would suspect a cracked EGR tube or other vacuum leak.

Most of us have experienced a cracked EGR tube at some point with our 2.8 engines, and that's why it's the usual first suggestion to the report of a high idle.

I know I'm just a hard headed idiot... although the car also had a few vacuum leaks from a few lines and gaskets as well. So i'm not to pissed. I gave the car a good run through. Full tune up, replaced sensors that weren't working right. Like my stupid IAC which made pretty big difference and the MAP as well...I was amazed that those to sensor changed the idle quite a bit....Now just to get this damn car on the road.

SO SOLLY !! I should have insisted
# 1 you pull IAC and check for dirty chamber ,,you clean it ,,then check IAC
Diagnostic ,Diagnostic,diagnostic to save money for needed parts
any unknown problem with drivability check VACUUM...,I have not emphasize this in some of my post .just thought it was a given..alway check for proper suction when your lady gives you a problem,,pull hose,, block hose,, place thumb against Vacuum connector
#2 you install a metal blocking plate between the EGR tube and the plenum,,you make this using the gasket as a guide.(of course no hole).you can make a quick simple one from a soda or a beer can,(heavier metal better),when you make your block plate ,,you leave the screw hole,s on one side open so you can slide it in with out removing the screws all the way..Just loosen screws slide block plate in between the EGR tube and gasket,, this is also a diagnostic check for bad leaks ..
Remove distributor cap and rotor to ease install..loosen 10mm bolts a few turns to prevent there dropping out ,,you need voodoo to reinstall these bolts if dropped
to complete of course you have to plug vacuum hose & make a blocking plate for the EGR /Y-pipe manifold conection..
MANY MANY parts are replaced because the vacuum is not checked ..
stopping the vacuum leak very often will make the brake booster work better ,,improving braking..
MY 2 Rupees worth

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-09-2010).]

some of us just learn the hard way....

quote Originally posted by WTFRACING88: i blocked off the intake where the EGR comes in and now the car is missing when it runs. But the idle is down to 900 thank god!. What would be the most common issue for the car missing?

Bad spark. After that, leaking or clogged injector. Beyond that, some intermittent power problem. Then aliens.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 01-09-2010).]

quote Originally posted by TK: Then aliens.

I was in the middle of drinking when I read this and nearly choked on it.

Glad to see that you're troubleshooting is working out here though. Good work sticking on it.

if its a bad injector I'm going to become a pro at taking off the intake manifold and throttle body. I'll have to start timing my self lol. I'll pull spark plugs next day i'm off and take a look to see whats going on. Might be improperly gapped.

Thanks for the info guys.

Many write ups about how to time the Fiero,,,gap plugs at .045
Use search feature at top of tech page
read"" timing 2.8"" by jake dragon
THEN
""read distributor replacement with pictures and tips for a V6 "" by Jetman
read these only for the excellent HOW TO timing info..
Check spark plug wires for leakage at night after you drive some place at night,,Lift rear hood lid,in very dark area ,and eyeball spark plug wires to see if there is arcing between wires and to block or head

do not pull injectors unless positive there is an injector problem ,,run a can of chevron fuel injector cleaner in fuel ,,add to 3 to 5 gallons of fuel..if you do pull injectors,, purchase new O rings (cheap) preferably G.M. O rings
the beer or soda can block is a quick fix a more substantual metal block/plate is desired over the plenum hole and the Y pipe EGR flange>>

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-09-2010).]

alright i put on the new EGR tube and boom idle is at 900 give or take few. Now the damn this missing like a mother...I pulled the cap and rotor off only to see a deteriorating pick up coil...even if that's not the issues, it looks like its disintegrating. For the whopping 8 bucks it costs I'm replacing that. Also i have a gift card from advance autos I got for Christmas so i mine as well get the ignition module

You probably already know this, but you have to pull the distributor to replace the pickup coil.

BTW, the coolant temp sensor (right above the water pump) is the only one the ECM uses to control fuel delivery - the gauge and idiot light are driven solely by the sender near the ignition coil. If you replace the SES light in your instrument cluster, I would also highly recommend cleaning the connections to your instrument cluster (the big ones that go into the circuit board), as mine had severe corrosion which prevented most of the gauges and lights from working. Also, if you haven't done the temperature gauge mod it would be a good time to do it - this prevents the temp needle "pegging" on the bulb test. It's pretty easy, google "temp gauge mod" if you are interested.

Also check your ignition timing, mine was sent to 10 degrees before TDC but WITHOUT jumpering the ALDL connector. This set my timing to 5 degrees after TDC which obviously is horrible under all circumstances. My engine runs 10x better with proper timing.