I just found out today that my A/C Compressor has decided to seize up and will have to be replaced. I have been reading that R134a is a popular conversion for the system and I am wondering if it would be worth doing to mine while I am replacing other major parts.

I live in Australia so parts are hard to come by, therefore I would like to make a list of everything I will need so I can combine the shipment from the US. (RockAuto appears to be the best place to order these parts from)

So far I know I will need:

*A new compressor (HR6??)
*Accumulator
*Belt

Other parts I may need?:

*Orifice Tube
*O Ring & Gasket Kit (Rockauto)

I'm new to learning about how these systems work so I really appreciate any help on how to do this. I will not be installing the parts myself, my mechanic will do all that, I just want to make sure I have everything prepared (apart from refridgerent & oil as I assume they will already have that).

My car is an 87 GT (2.8 Auto).

It's summer over here at the moment, so I need to get it working soon. For now I'll be keeping the windows rolled down and the sunroof off

Thanks.

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James

RHD 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

Hi James, yes you will need to convert to R134a, as R12 has been discontinued from public availability. You now need a license here to purchase R12. It is superexpensive to buy here. If you go to the other post I left a lengthy answer for your same problem. When you change the compressor you have to change the accumulator and orifice tube, or it will void the warranty on the new compressor. The accumulator is like the garbage can for the system. If you need any additional help, let me know on this post. Ernie

New parts:

HR-6 compressor w/clutch
accumulator
condenser
orifice tube, either stock style or VOV your choice.
A/C system flush or several cans of "Brake Clean"
Proper oil. If you decide you need or want to convert to 134a then PAG or ester oil. GM normally uses PAG 150 IIRC. Check the compressor, it may have come with oil already added. If so, that may influence your decision.
o-rings for all connections
compressor cycling switch if yours has not been replaced in the last 10 years or so. You will need to have it set for 134a pressures.
freon

Your mechanic should be familiar with the process.

Good luck!

Charlie

Thanks for the quick and helpful responses

Looking at RockAuto's site, I can't really tell whether all the parts are R134a compatible. Is it safe to assume they all are?

So far on the shopping list is:

Heat & Air Conditioning : A/C Compressor
FOUR SEASONS Part # 57255
w/ HR6 Compressor; Reman w/ Clutch

Heat & Air Conditioning : A/C Receiver Drier/ Accumulator
FOUR SEASONS Part # 33181
OE Style Accumulator


-> What is the difference between the orifice tubes availiable? Is there much benefit going for the more expensive ones?

Heat & Air Conditioning : A/C Orifice Tube
FOUR SEASONS Part # 38623
OE Replacement; Single Tube


A/C System O-Ring & Gasket Kit
FOUR SEASONS Part # 26735 {O-Ring and Gasket Seal Kit}
O-Ring and Gasket Seal Kit


-> Is this necessary too??

Heat & Air Conditioning : A/C System Valve Core and Cap Kit
FOUR SEASONS Part # 26777
Caps and Valve Core Seal Kit; w/ R12 or R134a Retrofit System


Cheers.

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James

RHD 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

Anyone ever hear or try this stuff ???

http://www.freeze12.com/

Parts today are all 134 compatible.
Diff between orifice tubes is that the expensive one is variable and 'adjust's itself to the pressure in the system. I'm no expert but since the system is sefl adjusting anyway I'm not sure it makes that much difference.
BTW there are two types of a/c systems on these cars, a cycling system (DA/HR6 type compressor with a switch on the accumulator or the continuously variable (V5 compressor) type system so make usre you get the correct compressor type.

You will also need to completely flush the system out if your compressor seized due to the 'black death' (google it). Basically lack of refrigerant = no oil going thru the system = the seals on compressor blades break up into millions of small shards that distribute themselves through out the system and block up the orifice tube.

If the orifice tube is covered in black gunge when you remove it yo need to flush everything out. You can get proper flush stuff but it's expensive. I've found mineral spirits works well but it's messy. The condenser will need replacing as well probably, it's pretty much impossible to flush it properly. Better to spend the money once that have to do it all again in a few weeks.

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Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

As for converting to R134a...maybe you should wait.

It's been labeled now as a "greenhouse gas" (about 1400 times worse than CO2) and is supposed to be replaced with R-1234yf, sometime in the near future (2011-ish).

Of course the new R-1234yf is less efficient than R134a, which is less efficient than R-12 [insert cynicism]

Also, expect to see R-134a get scarce as the new cars move away from it.

http://www.popularmechanics.../how_to/4335792.html

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-23-2009).]

Hydrocarbon refrigerants are legal and widely used in Australia to replace both R12 and R134a. Many in the U.S. are opposed to using them for safety reasons. So far, hydrocarbons have proven to be safe to use in countries and U.S. States where they are legal.

edit: Note that the A/C compressor warranty will be void if hydrocarbons are used.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 12-23-2009).]

James, Make sure that you can remove the switches intact from the backside of the old compressor. At that age, the plastic may brake before they come out. Your new compressor may not come with these, mine did not. I had to order new ones because the old ones crumbled.

R-134a works better with a variable orfice tube. It works like an expanion valve and regulates the pressure drop at the orfice. It was listed with the regular tube as a replacment option for my fiero at Auto Zone. With this orfice, I am now running lower head pressure and the clutch doesn't cycle except on low fan.

If you have access to Freeze 12, it acts like a direct replacement for R12 with no mods. I have used it for years in different types of rides with no problems.

Hope this helps.

quote Originally posted by RedlinePlus: If you have access to Freeze 12, it acts like a direct replacement for R12 with no mods. I have used it for years in different types of rides with no problems. Hope this helps.

If you decide to use any refrigerant other than R-12 or R-134a be advised that no shop will (knowingly) touch it again. And if you don't tell them and they contaminate all their recovery equipment, they will not be very happy.

Okay, well I'm looking at different options now for getting the parts I need. AC Kits.com looks like a good place to get everything I need except I might try and get the compressor locally as the shipping costs may be too expensive to make it worth the trouble of shipping it internationally. Hopefully Pontiworld in Sydney has one for a good price.

I'm surprised that ackits.com has the filter/dryer priced at only $16? Other places don't seem to come close to that.

I spoke to the mechanic today about what refrigerants are used by them and they also use a R134a substitute.

Keep the original R12.

R134a is at least 8* warmer than R12. If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, you'll be a lot happier and cooler with the R12. It costs a little more to fill with R12 but, it will pay for itself in comfort and efficiency.

Also, the Stock compressor, hoses and O-rings are all compatible with R12 so, you don't have to worry about seals getting eaten up or the refrigerant leaking out.

Any Knowledgeable AC shop will advise Against the 134a conversion.

[This message has been edited by GKK1 (edited 12-24-2009).]

You will allso need 8 ounces (u.s. measurement).,of air conditioner. compressor oil.You should have a shop do the final install,because they use a vacume pump to draw out all the air prior to installing the R134a.

[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 12-24-2009).]