Hey guys,

I've worked on plenty of suspensions before, but i'm having a real hard time with my Fiero. I'm trying to get the tapered end of the ball joint to break free from the steering knuckle, but I can't seem to get it. I wedged a pickle fork or ball joint seperating tool under it, and it's just NOT working. I've been pouding on it for 15-20 minutes with a sledge on the pickle fork, and it's NOT breaking free... hah...

Is there a trick to it? Anyone used this tool from Rodney Dickman? I don't get it... it looks like it would screw onto the top of the ball joint (from within the steering knuckle). It looks like it would make it tighter, not looser???


http://rodneydickman.com/ca...6_44&products_id=198

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Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

one of the things I do is put the nut back on, backwards. not all the way, leave a thread or two, because it will mushroom. then hammer it.
heat also helps.
the nut will likely be junk afterwards
if you are replaceing the balljoint - the nut is not as necessary, but it gives a larger hammering surface

That Tool goes between the upper & lower balljoint nuts , it pushes them apart, the balljoint either HAS to pop out or the spindle will Have to bend, the balljoint always goes first. I've MADE those tools in the past. another, put PB Blaster in the joint Before you start pounding.

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: one of the things I do is put the nut back on, backwards. not all the way, leave a thread or two, because it will mushroom. then hammer it. heat also helps. the nut will likely be junk afterwards if you are replaceing the balljoint - the nut is not as necessary, but it gives a larger hammering surface

Thanks Pyrth, do you think I need a spring compressor for the front? I did this once before and I don't recall ever specifically needing a spring compressor for the front springs? I know I definitely needed them for the back last time I did this, but with the weight off the suspension, it seemed there was little enough tension that I didn't have to worry about the spring flying out. Or am I just being stupid?


I thought I would leave the nut on there with full threads so that when it DOES break free, it won't go flying... ?

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Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

If you'll hit the side of the knuckle where the ball joint goes through it with a large ballpein or baby sledge, it WILL break loose. Make sure you have the nut AT LEAST 1/2 threaded on so you don't get hurt when it flies apart (from the spring tension). Then you can usually use a floor jack under the control arm to hold in the spring while you change the ball joints (or to slowly release the spring tension).
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

The day after tomorrow is the third day of the rest of your life. - George Carlin

this works on our little rust attractors. get a deep socket, I think I used 1/2" drive 9/16, but I may have needed a short extension also, get 2 heavy washers.
Fit the pieces between the stud on the upper and lower ball joint stud, I used a couple washers on the lower stud, so that they give a good support. losen the lower stud niut untill you get tension between the 2, a little lube on the washers and top of the nut works great. after you get it real tight, smack the knuckle arm a few times aorund where the stud passes thru. it will pop it very nicely. do not unload the arms, let the spring help you. it will not fly apart as the nut is sitll on the lower stud.
The real trick is that doing it that way, you have a straight push force on the stud, and smacking the cast will slightly distort it and break the bind.
What you do is make something that looks like Rodney's tool, but using a few , washers, sockets, etc, and use the existing stud nut to supply the force.
I use pickelforks too, but sometimes it just doesn't work right. sometimes you need to go in from the other side.

That tool is great, I have done it the hard way with socket / hammer, then after I bought one from Rodney I regretted not buying it sooner than I did, it makes the job so much easier.

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Thanks Pyrth, do you think I need a spring compressor for the front? I did this once before and I don't recall ever specifically needing a spring compressor for the front springs? I know I definitely needed them for the back last time I did this, but with the weight off the suspension, it seemed there was little enough tension that I didn't have to worry about the spring flying out. Or am I just being stupid? I thought I would leave the nut on there with full threads so that when it DOES break free, it won't go flying... ?

the other reason for the nut

I've been able to use a floor jack under the a-arm to hold it in place, and then lower the a-arm once the balljoint is seperated, and jack it back up for re-install

but, yes - there is load

I'm assuming you're using a ball joint pickle fork, and not a tie rod pickle fork to seperate it, correct?

I used a Ball Joint fork and it took a few good smacks, but it came free. Good luck!

Are you trying to loosen the upper or lower front ball joint?

One trick I learned from my my mentor when I was an apprentice tech way way back in the day is this:
You need two ball peen hammers, the heavier the better. Put one of them against one side of the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. Then smack the opposite side with the other hammer. Most guys will just smack the side without the other hammer there. What that does is actually egg shape the hole and the ball joint pops out. Dont worry, it wont distort the hole, I have done this probably a hundred times and it is the best way especially if you want to save the ball joint, pickle forks can damage them. Using the hammer on the other side as a sort of a counter weight will greatly reduce the effort you need to get it out.

Of course, it is a good idea to keep the nut on just a few threads so nothing goes flying, but with our front ends (84-87, I dont know about 88) you dont need to support the control arm as long as the shock is still mounted. The shock is what keeps the bottom control arm from swinging down when the suspension is unloaded. With the car in the air and the tire off, there will be no more spring in the bottom control arm when removing the ball joints as long as that shock bolt is in.

-Joe

Another "safety" trick is to keep the shock absorber bolted to the lower control arm. (while you're trying to do the ball joint removal)
That way, when you lower the floor jack it will help to control the downward motion/force of the front spring.

Kit

The fork separators didn't work for me, so I ordered Rodney's tool. Worked beautifully. One of my cars had the ball joint in so tight, it bent upon removal. As the others said, it pushes the ball joint out of the socke, and does a great job at it. Yes, leave some nut on, and I didn't need spring compressors, but I did use a jack under the control arm (just in case).

OK when changing out ball joints, I used an 8lbs sledge hitting on the side of the control arm to remove it from the knuckle. to drive it out of the arm I recomend a torch the same sledge and safety goggles, burning grease splatters hurt. It will take some time especially if you're flat backing. Good luck hope this helps.
-Chance