Ok.....My 87 Fiero GT 5 speed has been running perfectly. Now today I took it down the road and at first it acted a little odd and was bucking a bit under accelleration, mainly in first and second gear. I figured maybe it was just cold. I took it down the roda and it seemed to be running better in the higher gears. Then it started bucking in every gear and finally dies. It took forever to get it started again but finally did and made it back to the house as long as I held the throttle steady at about 4000rpms. It dies just before getting it into the garage and wouldn't start back up, just cranked. Finally, after I let it sit for awhile it started back up, but it wouldn't rev past about 2500rpms and would start cutting out. As soon as I would start letting out on the clutch it would die and then not start back up for a few minutes. Finally got it into the garage. Any ideas? It was running perfectly. I'm at a loss as to what is going on. Thanks for the help. dave

Sounds like it could be either the fuel pump giving out, or a clogged fuel filter. I would say change the filter first and see if that takes care of it. If not, check your fuel pressure. Testing proceedures and values are below



Test Description: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart.
1. Wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure connector to absorb any small amount of fuel leakage that may occur when installing the gage. Ignition "ON," pump pressure should be 280-325 kPa (40.5-47 psi). This pressure is controlled by spring pressure within the regulator assembly.
2. When the engine is idling, the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum) and is applied to the fuel regulator diaphragm. This will offset the spring and result in a lower fuel pressure. This idle pressure will vary somewhat depending on barometric pressure, however, the pressure idling should be less indicating pressure regulator control.
3. Pressure that continues to fall is caused by one of the following: -In-tank fuel pump check valve not holding -Pump coupling hose or pulsator leaking -Fuel pressure regulator valve leaking -Injector(s) sticking open
4. An injector sticking open can best be determined by checking for a fouled or saturated spark plug(s). If a leaking injector can not be determined by a fouled or saturated spark plug the following procedure should be used. -Remove plenum, and fuel rail but leave fuel lines connected. -Lift fuel rail out just enough to leave injector nozzles in the ports.


Hope it helps

I went out and it started right up after sitting for a bit. Revved fine in the garage. backed it out and down the lane. All good. Put it in 1st and took off. Started accellerating good and then started bucking and then died just before the garage and wouldn't start. Set for a few minutes and then started right up and pulled into the garage. Strange. Does that help diagnose? I'll be getting a fuel filter in the morning. Thanks, dave

quote Originally posted by talon67: Well, changed the fuel filter, cap, rotor, and ignition module. Still the same. It will start up and idle fine for a bit and then start missing and eventually die. When it is idleing good and I put it in gear and try to take off it immediately dies. It will be idling perfectly and then the engine light will come on and off and it will sputter along with the light and eventually die. I guess I need to get a fuel gauge and check that next. Thanks, dave

Have you checked the codes? You mention that the engine light comes on and off, that means that codes are being set. Run your codes and see what's wrong:

http://www.pontiacperforman...icles/OSG/codes.html

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Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

I got a code 12. No reference pulses to ECM??

Code 12 just means the engine isn't running. If you are connecting the test and ground terminals in the ALDL connector the check engine light will blink code 12 three times. This is normal. This will be followed by whatever code the ECM is setting, if any.

I had the key on and engine off and was unplugging and plugging in electrical connections in the engine bay and when I touched the oil sending unit rge fuel pump turned on. When I would move it around it would turn on and off. I cleaned the connections but it still did it. The gauge needle was very irratic as well. This would all coincide with the engine sputtering. When the gauge would be steady, car ran fine. I unplugged it and the car runs almost perfect. make sense? Thanks

the oil sending unit, aside from driving the oil pressure gage, is a a backup to the fuel pump relay. If the fuel pump relay ever fails, the oil sender unit acts as a parallel path for power to the fuel pump.

sounds like you might need to change your sending unit, or at least replace the connector, and change the fuel pump relay. that way if it is currently running on the oil relay, it should take care of the problem. If I can find a test procedure for the relay, I'll post it.

Thanks! I just traded the car and told the person what it was doing. I'm betting he'll become a member here, so itwould be great if you posted it if you happen to run across it! Thanks! dave