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check engine light by hinesb1890
Started on: 11-24-2009 07:42 PM
Replies: 10
Last post by: Bloozberry on 11-25-2009 06:37 PM
hinesb1890
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Report this Post11-24-2009 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hinesb1890Click Here to visit hinesb1890's HomePageSend a Private Message to hinesb1890Direct Link to This Post
I recently had some overheating problems on my v6, I changed my thermostat housing gasket because I thought I saw steam coming from the base when I checked out the engine. It still overheated after that so I checked my oil and found it was very low (I waited for a while after I turned off the car to check it). I then proceeded to add 2 quarts of oil and there was no more overheating. I figured it was all good so I began the 90 mile trip from school to home. With about 20 miles left in the trip the engine sputtered for a second then the check engine light came on (I was going about 70). The temperature and oil pressure seemed fine and the engine seemed to be fine so I just finished the trip. My oil level was near the top of the checkered area on my dipstick but still within the ok zone so I dont think I overfilled anything. Any suggestions as to what might be going on here?
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Cajun
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Report this Post11-24-2009 08:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunDirect Link to This Post

Have you checked to see what CODEs the ECM is sending?

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Old Lar
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Report this Post11-24-2009 09:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Old LarSend a Private Message to Old LarDirect Link to This Post
Likely to be code 32..just a guess, as that one seems to pop up periodically on my cars with no ill effect on drivability. If the light goes off and not return when you shut off then restart the car means to me 32. If it the SES light reappears, some other code.
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fierofury
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Report this Post11-24-2009 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofurySend a Private Message to fierofuryDirect Link to This Post
Just curious, what do you need to read codes?
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Terry_w
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Report this Post11-24-2009 11:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Terry_wSend a Private Message to Terry_wDirect Link to This Post
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hinesb1890
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Report this Post11-25-2009 02:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for hinesb1890Click Here to visit hinesb1890's HomePageSend a Private Message to hinesb1890Direct Link to This Post
The light still comes on after a few minutes upon start up. Today when I started it up cold it was really struggling and the engine would keep dropping below 500 rpms and then shoot back up to 1500, only after a little while it would even out.

*and no i haven't tried reading a code before

[This message has been edited by hinesb1890 (edited 11-25-2009).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post11-25-2009 07:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
Read the code, then you'll be able to get some solid advice.
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Fieroseverywhere
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Report this Post11-25-2009 09:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroseverywhereSend a Private Message to FieroseverywhereDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofury:

Just curious, what do you need to read codes?


A paperclip is the only special tool needed.
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hinesb1890
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Report this Post11-25-2009 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hinesb1890Click Here to visit hinesb1890's HomePageSend a Private Message to hinesb1890Direct Link to This Post
I just ran the codes and got 15 which is the coolant sensor and i got 33 which is the MAP sensor, could either have been fried from overheating?
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Fieroseverywhere
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Report this Post11-25-2009 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroseverywhereSend a Private Message to FieroseverywhereDirect Link to This Post
Is there a common PCM reference wire for those 2 sensors on the 2.8? There is on my 4.9.
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post11-25-2009 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
No. The CTS shares a common ground with the TPS, and the TPS shares a common reference signal with the MAP, but no direct connection between the MAP and the CTS.

As for your problem however, the service manual states that the CTS is one of the inputs that's used to control fuel delivery, engine spark timing, idle air control, torque converter clutch (for autos), and EGR. The code trips if the CTS senses a coolant temperature less than -30*C (-23*F) for 3 seconds or more, so I'd say your first step should be to check the CTS connector, it's on the pulley end of the engine on the intake manifold and has yellow and a black wire going to it. Unplug it, check for corrosion, replug it in, and try the engine. If it still trips the codes, then your CTS sensor is probably faulty. You can test it to see if it's reading properly with an ohmmeter. Here's what it should read between the two pins:

210*F = 185 ohms
160 = 450
100 = 1800
70 = 3400
40 = 7500
20 = 13,500
0 = 25,000
-40 = 100,700
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