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[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-23-2010).]

That's all there is to it... although I'm curious why you would want to.

The 500 connector has both engine as well as chassis wiring (tail lights, trunk fan, cruise, etc). Eliminating the connector would mean that when you drop the engine the starter, alt, dist power, tach, and dash gage wiring would have to be disconnected from the engine prior to engine removal. I have a friend that does his swaps this way, but they are mostly 84s.


Moving the connector out of sight will clean up the area while still allowing the 500 to come apart and the engine side go with the engine when removed.

Back in 2005, I moved the 500 on my SBC car to the center console and ran the tail light harness through the double firewall section (never enters the engine bay) and combined the rest with the ECM/203 harness and used a single firewall passage:




My last 4.9 swap moved the 500 up under the rear glass and is hidden by the air filter box mounted where the battery used to go. This allowed the 500 harness from the firewall pass through to go down and travel along the top of the double firewall and I put in in some steel conduit and painted it the same as the firewall to blend it. Then I made a panel that covers all the firewall pass through with everything exiting down at the bottom.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-17-2009).]

I used a connector from a Ford Taurus that is much cleaner looking on my 84 Fiero and moved it over to the outer side of the pass side deck lid hinge so it is completely uot of the way. It is a bit of work but looks much nicer when finished and the newer connectors are rubber sealed so no gooey crap leaking out of them.
The Taurus connector has enough pins and wires to eliminate the C500 completely and even the C203 on my 3800 SC swap making it so there is only one connector to deal with when dropping the engine. Dan

if clean up the area is the goal, then look behind the batt. there is plenty of room behind it. That is where I hide mine.

quote Originally posted by FIEROFLYER: I used a connector from a Ford Taurus that is much cleaner looking on my 84 Fiero and moved it over to the outer side of the pass side deck lid hinge so it is completely uot of the way. It is a bit of work but looks much nicer when finished and the newer connectors are rubber sealed so no gooey crap leaking out of them. The Taurus connector has enough pins and wires to eliminate the C500 completely and even the C203 on my 3800 SC swap making it so there is only one connector to deal with when dropping the engine. Dan

I've got one of these connectors also I intend to use
I love R&Ring ford engines,you don't unplug anything-just unplug the engine harness
I cut off bulkhead connectors like that any chance I get,they come in handy.

What connector and what year Taurus are you guys talking about?

more info on this plug i am very interested as well. About do an engine swap harness this could be a nice upgrade.

Not just taurus,most all fords have a bulkhead,engine harness connector.
I've got mine from 3.0l ranger.

Let me go snap some pics from the shop,you'll see what i'm talking about.

2005 Ford taurus 3.0l sohc.
Underneath the battery/airbox on driver side.


2000 Ford Contour 2.0l
Driver side fenderwell

[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 11-17-2009).]

When using the Ford connector, did you cut the Fiero wires and crimp Ford pins on, or did you cut the Fiero and Ford harnesses and soldered them back together?

Wow, some Very good info. (+) to everyone that didn't already have one from me .

I'm trying to clean up some wiring and also replace the vacuum cruise control with the electronic one. The previous owner did some work on the (vacuum) cruise control, so the wires are already out of the harness. After reading about dropping the engine, i was liking the idea of just moving it as fieroguru suggested; his pics show the really nice results that are possible. But I REALLY like the idea of getting rid of the large GM connector and replacing it with the smaller Ford one - i'm having some space issues .

Eliminating the C500 and C203 connectors completely is very appealing .

If i paypal you, can you send me one - the yards around here don't have the newer cars available, almost all are older than 1990 .

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 11-17-2009).]

I also removed my c500. I used a GM ABS pigtail for the tail light section, and a buick lesabre bulkhead connector to go into the car. I can't stand that gooey crap. I sealed up the firewall between the seats. All my wires to the engine bay go through this now, whether it be C203, C500, power, ground, etc.

I don't have any finished pics, but here are some from during.

Here is the bulkhead location on the firewall. The 'twist-lock' abs connector to the tail lights can also be seen.


New engine side wiring harness that can simply be unplugged


ECU mounting inside the car..

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 11-18-2009).]

quote Originally posted by DefEddie: I've got one of these connectors also I intend to use I love R&Ring ford engines,you don't unplug anything-just unplug the engine harness I cut off bulkhead connectors like that any chance I get,they come in handy.

thats a great idea. now that i think back on it, when i yanked my 95 taurus engine to get rid of that POS AXOD to replace it with the SHO MTX-IV, i do rememebr one 8mm or so bolt to undo and the entire engine harness off the firewall. maybe thats what i should do to the 7730 swap and the c500. i really need to clean my engine bay up. who knew ford parts would come in handy?

how do you go about using a heavier gauge wire for some of the things like the alternator n such? and any pictures of your connection method. did you solder and weather seal heatshrink or weatherseal crimp? im going to go the solder method. im a jr electronic tech in the navy and paranoid about my connection methods.

------------------
First LX9 Fiero GT, 1987 | My Fiero Fuel Economy | MPG Display for OBD I
Youtube Videos of My GT | modernize your fiero with technology!
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
Fiero's are people too. We pay just as much attention to them, if not more than our loved ones
screw paying those bastards. im not going to become rich by paying for things.....

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 11-18-2009).]

The 73 pin GM bulkhead i posted uses rubber seals and standard GM pins. I bought bags of all new pins from mouser and just used the correct tool to crimp them. There are 3 different sized pins in the bulkhead I used. If you're worried about the connection, buy new pins and you will only have 1 interface rather than the factory crimp + your soldier. Not to mention it looks a heck of a lot cleaner w/o the soldier joints.

Do yourself a favor and stay away from the ford connector. Unless you want to solder every wire, you'll never find pins for those connectors. IMO you're much better off finding a gm style bulkhead where you'll be able to get new pins easily and cheap.

quote Originally posted by Jncomutt: The 73 pin GM bulkhead i posted uses rubber seals and standard GM pins. I bought bags of all new pins from mouser and just used the correct tool to crimp them. There are 3 different sized pins in the bulkhead I used. If you're worried about the connection, buy new pins and you will only have 1 interface rather than the factory crimp + your soldier. Not to mention it looks a heck of a lot cleaner w/o the soldier joints.

What size are the pins, would you mind sharing the P/N's? -Jason

Bulkhead small pins Male
Mouser Part #: 829-12077628
Manufacturer Part #: 12077628

Bulkhead small pins Female
Mouser Part #: 829-12084200
Manufacturer Part #: 12084200

Bulkhead mid pins Male
Mouser Part #: 829-12129497
Manufacturer Part #: 12129497

Bulkhead mid pins Female
Mouser Part #: 829-12129493
Manufacturer Part #: 12129493

Bulkhead Large pins Male
Mouser Part #: 829-12064736
Manufacturer Part #: 12064736

Bulkhead Large pins Female
Mouser Part #: 829-12052456
Manufacturer Part #: 12052456

C203 Female Pins
Mouser Part #: 829-12162595
Manufacturer Part #: 12162595

GM Weatherpack Male pins (Fuel Pump pigtail, MAP,etc)
Mouser Part #: 829-12146501
Manufacturer Part #: 12146501

GM Weatherpack Female pins
Mouser Part #: 829-12089188
Manufacturer Part #: 12089188

Most of the GM 3800 sensor pins (Cam/crank, ECT,etc)
Mouser Part #: 829-12124075
Manufacturer Part #: 12124075

Injector Pins
Mouser Part #: 829-12103360
Manufacturer Part #: 12103360

That should save you a LOT of time. It took me quite a while lookin at the brochures to make sure I was ordering the right stuff.

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 11-19-2009).]

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[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-23-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Jncomutt: Bulkhead small pins Male Mouser Part #: 829-12077628 Manufacturer Part #: 12077628 Bulkhead small pins Female Mouser Part #: 829-12084200 Manufacturer Part #: 12084200 Bulkhead mid pins Male Mouser Part #: 829-12129497 Manufacturer Part #: 12129497 Bulkhead mid pins Female Mouser Part #: 829-12129493 Manufacturer Part #: 12129493 Bulkhead Large pins Male Mouser Part #: 829-12064736 Manufacturer Part #: 12064736 Bulkhead Large pins Female Mouser Part #: 829-12052456 Manufacturer Part #: 12052456 C203 Female Pins Mouser Part #: 829-12162595 Manufacturer Part #: 12162595 MAP Sensor style Male pins Mouser Part #: 829-12146501 Manufacturer Part #: 12146501 Most of the GM 3800 sensor pins (Cam/crank, ECT,etc) Mouser Part #: 829-12124075 Manufacturer Part #: 12124075 Injector Pins Mouser Part #: 829-12103360 Manufacturer Part #: 12103360 That should save you a LOT of time. It took me quite a while lookin at the brochures to make sure I was ordering the right stuff.

Thank you very much sir! I'd give you another +, but I can't -Jason

keep in mind those 'small' bulkhead pins work for a lot of other things, so do the MAP pins. The MAP pins are the same ones you need to repin the Fuel Pump connector and some 'inline' weather packs for instance. The 'bulkhead' pins get used in the long style metri pack connectors like this one..

MAP Pins work for all weatherpack that looks like this..


Bulkhead pins work for all metripack connectors that look like this...


EDIT, I updated my original list with a few more pins I forgot about.

NOTE: Keep in mind that these terminals come in different sizes. The interface size will be the same on all of them so any one will fit your current connector housing. Just wanted to make it known that they make different size crimp sections based on the size of the wire you wish to use. The part numbers I listed are just for the pins I used. I bought all brand new spools of wire from Waytek (18 ga TXL), and used that for the engine harness. Some of the bulkhead and C203 terminals were purchased for larger wires, however.


All new wire and terminals gets me so excited, lol. Here is in progress pic of soldering the power feed for the injectors into 1 single lead...

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 11-19-2009).]

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[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-23-2010).]

Would any of these Ford pins work for that Ford connector.

http://terminalsupplyco.com...T=T010070#Categories

http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=11

Funny you guys would be discussing this. I was just about to post a question pertaining to what engine swappers do to move the wiring. I have an 85SE 2.5 that appears to be an 84 leftover because it has the ECU connectors in the middle of the fire wall. And I'm getting tired of driving a 4 cylinder and want to do an engine swap. But all the research says the 84 ECU wiring gets in the way. This Ford connector seems perfect.

This looks interesting.

http://www.casperselectroni...h=53&products_id=694

[This message has been edited by Cam70Dude (edited 11-26-2009).]

Well, since I have two days off for the Thanksgiving holiday, I will be going to the salvage yard in the morning. I will report my findings. I just hope it is not to cold, in the morning. It is already snowing, as I write this.

I don't know why you guys would stray from the GM connectors? They're very easy to get parts for, they're cheap, and they're known to be problem free.

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[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-23-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Jncomutt: I also removed my c500. I used a GM ABS pigtail ...

I lucked out today and found the GM ABS connector . I also found the ford connector, but got the GM because the pins (on the inside) looked heavier to me. I'm gonna try to use it for the engine connections. Can you please tell how this thing comes apart to get at the pins ? Thank you.

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 11-30-2009).]

You have to pull the 'fingered' clip out the side of the connector. Mine was yellow. Once that is apart, you need to push the appropriate tool into the pin from the face to unhook the lock. Usually a small pin/needle will work too.

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[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-23-2010).]

Having a connector in there won't be an issue. Like I posted above, all my wires go through that big bulkhead. I actually get less noise in my sensors now with all new wire and pins with the bulkhead than I had with the factory wiring.

Well as promised, here the connectors! I had to wait until after the holiday to find them. The big one is from 01 Caviler and the little one is from a 95 S-10.

Nice! That cavalier one is the same as the Buick Regal variation I use, just smaller.

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[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-23-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Jncomutt: Nice! That cavalier one is the same as the Buick Regal variation I use, just smaller.

Thanks! I had a Buick connector in my hand. Then I saw the Cavalier and liked it better. I like the fact that there are bigger wires, like the Fiero has and there is still room to add more pins if needed.

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[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-23-2010).]

Pictures, Paul....we need pictures. You know that most of us are illiterate....we have to have our pictures.

Has anyone replaced the bulkhead connectors that allow the wires to pass through the rear firewall with something else. Mine are in very poor condition, any suggestions?

Thanks
Mike
msaby@fast.net

i think that is mentioned farther up in this thread.

------------------
First LX9 Fiero GT, 1987 | My Fiero Fuel Economy | MPG Display for OBD I
Youtube Videos of My GT | modernize your fiero with technology!
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
Fiero's are people too. We pay just as much attention to them, if not more than our loved ones
screw paying those bastards. im not going to become rich by paying for things.....