I am trying to replace the front hub on my '88 Formula and have hit a snag. The hub bolts came out easily, but now the hub itself will not budge. I've gone as far as to beat on the back of the hub with a BFH with no signs of movement. I applied a little heat to the steering knuckle, but I don't want to go too far there for fear of affecting its strength. This is my first time replacing a sealed hub assembly. Is there a special tool required to get this thing out, or do I just thank the Michigan road salt for this thing being stuck? Where do I go from here?

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'88 Formula. 2800/automatic. Cradle out, awaiting new #5 piston...

The rest of the garage:
'92 LeBaron sedan: 3.0V6/5sp
'77 Camaro: 350/4sp
'71 Fiat Spider: 1800/5sp
'71 Mercedes 220D: 2.2L/4sp
'70 DeVille: 472ci/TH400
'62 DeVille: 390ci/Hydramatic Jetaway

I dropped mine off at the shop to be pressed out.

However, there was an older thread here on the forum where a guy was able to press them out by threading the bolts in from the backside of the knuckle - he made spacers out of steel rod and put them into the bolt holes first. The bolts press on the spacers, and the spacers press on the bearing flange and press it out.

I took one of the bolts to the local hardware store and found some that were about 2" longer and fully threaded. Then insert these from the back side to push the bearing out. After applying some pressure, tap the bearing to help break it loose. Not how I would want to remove a good bearing, but great for removing bad ones.

Rust between the bearing cartridge and the bore of the knuckle is the culprit. If you don't want to damage the hub cartridge, I strongly recommend removing the knuckle, applying liberal amounts of penetrant (PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc.), and then pressing the cartridge out of the knuckle. I've done this successfully using my 12-ton shop press and a custom-made press tool, but any machine shop should be able to do it for you in only a few minutes.

When you reinstall the hub cartridge in the knuckle, apply a thin coat of marine grease (the very thick, sticky, waterproof stuff) or anti-seize compound to both the cartridge body and the knuckle bore. Someday you'll be glad you did.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 11-09-2009).]

Well, the old bearing is visibly loose and makes grinding noises so I doubt much more damage can be done. Then I pounded on it with a 5# hammer for a bit... I'll try some long bolts and see how that works.

When bolting the new one in - does it require new bolts? What is the torque spec?

quote Originally posted by BluEyes: When bolting the new one in - does it require new bolts? What is the torque spec?

1) Carefully clean and inspect the old bolts. If they are in good condition they can be reused. These bolts aren't highly stressed in normal operation; most of the loads are transferred directly from the hub cartridge to the knuckle bore.

2) The proper torque is 62 ft-lb (85 N*m), the same as for the rear hub-attach bolts. Note that the '88 GM/Helm factory service manual has a big error ... it lists a torque for the front hub bolts that is much too high and will damage them. I think it's a good idea to apply some anti-seize compound to these bolts before installing them, but be sure to torque them properly.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 11-09-2009).]

Yes, I also used the old post method on both my 88's. I put 3 round metal shafts into the 3 bolt holes then "pressed " the hub out of the knuckle by tightening three bolts sequentially coming from the back side of the spindle. I made the metal shafts by cutting 3 old bolts a size smaller than the ones matching the spindle size. Just rotate the hub so all shafts miss the holes on the hub. John