So I have been trying to solve this problem for a few days now. I changed the caliper and it didn't make a difference. The right rear brake sticks enough to make the brake smoke after a short drive. The line for that wheel is also very hard to bleed (I usually have to do it with the engine running for the brake booster). The rest of the brakes work and bleed fine. I noticed the junction block for the rear brake is right by that wheel. Is it possible the line is plugged somehow?

If you are still running original rubber brake hoses the inside wall can deteriorate and collapse turn it into kind of a one way check valve. Also possible for the hard lines to be blocked somewhere along the way.

So whats the best way to check/fix that? Replace the hard line to the junction block and the rubber line?

As a test before you waste money on parts you dont need, I would swap the rubber lines and see if the problem follows. I have never had a hard line get blockage but it is possible, especially if the car sat a while.

I'll try swapping the lines and see what happens. What is the correct method of compressing the caliper? Mine has some mark on the piston that look like a tool is used to spin it.

Some people rotate it in with a special tool. I never had good results that way. I prefer to remove the parking brake lever then pres the piston straight in with a c-clamp with a large socket over the parking brake stud so it can move freely.

Ogres cave has a really good explination of the rear brakes operation, worth reading !

Wow I never saw that one before. It was a plugged rubber line. Disconnected the line one part at a time and when I got the rubber line disconnected from the hard line the fluid bled out more easily. I ordered a new one and will be replacing it this weekend. Thanks for the help guys.

Some times what happens is that the bracket that attaches the hose to the frame starts to rust.... the crimped part, around the hose starts to expand and then the hose gets clamped off by the expansion. I had to loose one of these on my '86SE. I flexed the hose and then lightly clamped it back down and all was well.

J.

quote Originally posted by Bfisher31286: And by "guys" I mean Mike. Thanks a lot for your help.

Glad to help ! good to see you found the problem source !

Replace rubber lines in PAIRS. never just do one. I also belive the same in pads or calipers....always a pair and you wont have further grief.

I had a rubber line go bad and it's scary dangerous as if you need to panic stop the car is going to swerve uncontrollably in one direction or the other.

Fortunately replacing a rubber hose is easy. One trick, make sure you use a torque wrench on the aluminum calipers or you WILL strip it out and render it useless.

I just came across this same problem. Lf rear was sticking. Figured it was caliper sticking. Replaced with almost new. Still seized up. Opened bleeder valve, pressurized fluid came out. Heard that lines are common problem. Replaced it, brakes work great.

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When life gives you lemons, thank them for the Fiero.

quote Originally posted by jaskispyder: Some times what happens is that the bracket that attaches the hose to the frame starts to rust.... the crimped part, around the hose starts to expand and then the hose gets clamped off by the expansion. I had to loose one of these on my '86SE. I flexed the hose and then lightly clamped it back down and all was well. J.

this is more common than most people think. it is sometimes the cause for the calippers to lock and overheat deteriorating the piston . one reason for this to happen is old fluid never replaced.

I had the right rear go bad on me. Same symptoms. I unfortunately didn't figure it out fast enough and it eventually resulted in the brake overheating and catching fire. Bad brake hoses is bad news.