Sorry for being on here again... seems like I ask the same question... I'm using a CS130 100amp Napa model number 4521F.. I have a 88 GT 2.8L 5 speed manual

Still narrowing down my electrical problem... All tests work and seem operational that I have done from the 88 book manual (the thick one), WCF and some other friends in the fiero community....

My question is... From the nut on the alternator, 8 gauge or so power wire, goes to a fusible link and then to the battery block.

In testing from the alt side to the battery block connector, I show 0.0 ohm resistance. Therefore continuity. So I would assume the the fusible link works.... If I put current through it (thus turn the key in the ON position), would it by chance not allow the current to pass? Although I show current with a light tester on all S,F,and L pigtail pins including the nut. S always has current. F and L only have current with the key in the on position. PIGTAIL WORKS AND IS NEW... All tests lead to the volt regulator... but this is number 5 alternator!!!


Here's the latest....

So I put the car back together from testing the wiring harness and all of the car under the dash etc. I exchanged the alternator with another rebuild from Napa, had them bench check it and it passes before I took it home, and it's installed. I turned the key to the on position and I'm still in the same boat. ((I did not start the car at this point)) Later after testing and buying the ignition switch mentioned later in this post, I did however go for a cruise and man this car purrs. 950 idle with no fluctuation. accelerates great with only 298 miles on the new motor. HP is starting to show itself.

( I do get a surge on my volt gauge as I accelerate from a stop position only - in the 15-16V range with a flicker of the volt light. ) It then act as if the alternator turns off at cruising. Battery still with no charging. This repeats after ever signal or stop sign.

• Battery test is good.. 550 cranking amp and it does charge.
• I've replaced the ignition switch.
• I have an new pigtail plug to the alternator
• I've done the "ground the L pin with the key in the on position and I "DO" get a volt light in the gauge cluster, from the 88 manual testing section.
• I have continuity from the alt pigtail to the dash gauge cluster. Every wire! Even to the fuse block
• I've tested current with a light meter and all S, F, L pins turn the meter light on. So that works.
• Voltage reading from the S pin is 12.49V, from the F pin is 12.15V, from the L pin is 12.15V as well - all with key in the on position. key off I only read current from the S pin
• nut lead from the alternator to battery block is good. 0.0ohm continuity. and has current plus volt reading of the battery (12.49V).


What else can I do???? That's why I'm thinking of replacing the fusible links.

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-02-2009).]

Once i changed my alternator . started the car and the fusible link went in smoke ( toasted ).
My problem was not even the alternator but the light in the aux gauges pod ( toasted ) but as you mention you have the light flashing , so that is not your problem .
Change the link maybe it's close to toast . Just a few strands remaining ? Who knows .
But i'm nil in electrical problem was just lucky reading here on PFF that the light has something to do with the alternator charging .
After having paid 110.00$ naturaly .

How are your grounds? Seem to remember fighting a similar issue due to a bad engine to chassis ground been awhile but I think that was it.

Thanks for your time guys... Grounds are good... I have three in the engine bay. One on the block from the battery with a new screw battery attachment piece (both side + & -), one on the wheel well fender area (right in front of the battery visible) and an extra ground that I added from the wheel well area (where the other one is) to the mount bracket of the vacuum solenoid -I believe that what you call it. All points on the engine show good ohm connection and ground....

Sense there are no fusible links to buy now a days. what size in-line fuse would you use for that particular power line? Using a 100 amp alt. 100 amp? Is that a blond question? What about the other fusible links?

I was thinking if I do this and replace some links why not all and have a nice fuse distribution block like you see in car audio set-ups. I have a spare block from my truck that will do up to four fuses.... What about something like that?

Do you think it's the fusible links to what I describe?

Fusible links are not like they use to be, the older wire style has not been used in modern cars, they use a cartridge style now. You COULD replace it with a fuse, but consider this. A fusible link will handle a spike in voltage while a fuse will not. Some systems can have inconsistent spikes that can blow a fuse and then your stuck til you put a new fuse in. Whereas a fusible link will take the spike and not blow unless it was a continual high voltage problem which tells you something is WRONG WITH YOUR CAR.

You can still buy the older style fusible link wire from stores, if not locally, online for sure. If you go with the older style wire type fusible link be sure to get the correct size gauge wire. If you have an 8 gauge wire going to the link you will need a 12 gauge fusible link. If you run an 8 gauge fusible link, it wont ever do its job.

Thanks Mobawlz.. I'll look into it.

Going to the SI model seems like a step backward. Read Ogre’s cave where he talks about the two types of regulators used in the CS130. The 88 Fiero uses the P L I S type shown in figure 3A below. The other type is P L F S shown in figure 3. Ogre warns not to connect anything to the I/F lead if you are not sure which type you have.

Either type should turn on from voltage on the “L” lead. The “I” lead on the Fiero type is tied to the “L” lead through an internal (regulator) resistor to turn on the alternator should the lamp burn out.

edit: The resistors shown near the indicator lamps below are not present on the Fiero.

edit: There are also CS130 regulators with different voltage set points; the most common is 14.8 Volts and the other is 14.2 Volts.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 11-04-2009).]

I'M GOING TO KICK MY OWN @ss !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SERIOUSLY

I "did" check for ground.... EVERYWHERE. Even the dogbone bracket bolt that travels down to the alternator bracket and then that bolt. but I never went the end of the alternator bracket.

Stupid ,stupid, stupid....... STUPID ME.. My alternator bracket is powdercoated..... My alternator's mount bolt was not grounded. All this time wasted plus the time of others...... Sorry everyone

My solution was to run an 8 gauge ground wire from the top mount bolt of the alt to an actual (tested) ground..... I now have a volt light when the key is in the on position.

MY 3.4L SWAP BUILD IS FINALLY DONE!!!!!

-----Just working out the air bubbles in the radiator to get the car below 220. How do others burp the system. I basically release the air build up from the top engine cap while the car is running - carefully I might add because of the water pump - just releasing mostly air. Occasionally squeezing the radiator tube behind and under the driver's door on my V6... Like a pump to help it flow. Repeating the engine cap release for the last minute air to escape. When the car is of, I take the engine cap off and release the front radiator cap a little to allow water to flow out of the car. Then refilling it from the engine side only.. I do have the heat on to flow water through the heater core.

Is this correct? Is there an easier way? Seems like it'll never flow properly.

Your problem reminded me of an old tech bulletin from a now defunct alternator remanufacturer. Here it is:



Tech Bulletin # MRTSB-GM-016
Part Number (s): 7859-7, 7860-7 and 7860-11
Vehicle: 1987-88 Pontiac equipped with 2.8L engines

Problem:
Low Alternator Output when Alternator is Operating Properly

Diagnosis:
1987-88 Pontiacs equipped with the 2.8L engine are prone to a condition of low alternator output even when the alternator is operating properly. This condition is caused by the black (phosphate coated) studs which connect the alternator mounting bracket to the engine. Due to this coating the studs provide a poor ground path to the engine block for the alternator, resulting in an undercharged battery.

To fix this situation, GM suggests that the retaining nuts be removed and discarded. Clean the studs thoroughly with a wire brush down to a bare metal finish. Finally, replacement nuts which are coated with an electrically conductive coating should be installed. This will ensure a good path to ground providing proper battery charging.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 11-04-2009).]