I scored a couple throttle bodies at the yard today. I got 2 because the first one I grabbed looked like mine, but then I saw another that looked the same but with a slightly larger bore, so I just took both so I got it covered

And both of them have their caps in place to prevent tweaking of the throttle stop screw. I just got new AC Delco plugs and have been toying with my IAC to ensure it is functioning. I am going to wait before I swap out the TB, because I need to order the TB rebuild kit, plus I am still trouble shooting other things.

I just got a Vacuum gauge, anyone know what reading I should get if I connect it to the Intake manifold?

Well I am still out working on it, but I just wanted to check in with a clear picture of what I was talking about with regards to my confusion on which hole to plug in the IAC port...



Ok, hole #2 is where all the vacuum is coming from

Hole #3 is where the pintle seats.

I took a spare pintle from an IAC and used it to plug hole #3 while the car was running. There was zero change when hole #3 was plugged or unplugged.

But when I put my finger over hole #2 I could regulate the idle.

This is what has always confused me when people tell me to plug the hole where the pintle seats, as this does nothing.

I think when the IAC is in place with the pintle seated in hole #3, it restricts the vacuum drawn into hole #2 and as the pintle backs out, it allows more air to pass from hole #3 to hole #2 but unless hole #1 is plugged with the body of the IAC, then doing anything with hole #3 would be pointless.

I just wanted to put this out there to illustrate the confusion I have every time this procedure is explained to me.

I am still on the fence, but so far after toying with the car running and the IAC plugged in off the TB, and regulating idle with finger, I think my wiring to the IAC might be bad or at least have a weak spot somewhere before the point where the new pigtail is spliced on.

I want to do a continuity test for each of the 4 IAC wires once I figure out exactly where they go.

I'm going back to work for a while.

[This message has been edited by perceptionist (edited 10-17-2009).]

That rocks. I'd say you found the problem.

I hope this helps someone else with the mystery of the crazy idle. I must have read every single thread here and on other sites and never seen reference to checking the TB gasket blocking that port.... I started it after I ate and it started right up without pressing the gas at all... but I still am looking forward to trying it after it's sat all night and totally cold... if it works tomorrow... the remote starter is going in... I can't f*ing believe it!

Oh BTW, I left the ECM fuse out while I was eating to clear codes... after my test drive, I re checked codes and am still getting the #35 and #44, But when sitting at red lights idling the check engine light did not come on once...which makes me wonder... is removing the ECM fuse a reliable way to clear codes? It behaved perfect on the test drive.

[This message has been edited by perceptionist (edited 10-17-2009).]

quote Originally posted by perceptionist: I hope this helps someone else with the mystery of the crazy idle. I must have read every single thread here and on other sites and never seen reference to checking the TB gasket blocking that port.... I started it after I ate and it started right up without pressing the gas at all... but I still am looking forward to trying it after it's sat all night and totally cold... if it works tomorrow... the remote starter is going in... I can't f*ing believe it! Oh BTW, I left the ECM fuse out while I was eating to clear codes... after my test drive, I re checked codes and am still getting the #35 and #44, But when sitting at red lights idling the check engine light did not come on once...which makes me wonder... is removing the ECM fuse a reliable way to clear codes? It behaved perfect on the test drive.

maybe not. better just to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Well, that works for my 84 anyway.

See I told ya it would be a good idea to concentrate your focus on the IAC,...Huh...huh...huh...yea?

[This message has been edited by White 84 SE (edited 10-18-2009).]

quote Originally posted by perceptionist: is removing the ECM fuse a reliable way to clear codes?

I know for a fact that just removing the fuse does NOT clear the codes on my '86 GT.

Congrats on the detective work.

I wound up disconnecting the Batt overnight,

Just went out and hooked it up, turned the key and Zero issue...

I'm off for a test drive and to pick up the remote starter for my little project for today.

We'll see if the codes clear/change.