Here is the problem, theres no thread left and the nuts are completly welded to the axle, any tips?

Chemicals (pb blaster) and heat and a BFH to break the rust weld. You're probably going to have to replace the hub seals though if you use heat.
Either that or pop the axle and replace the complete assembly sinceit looks like you need new axles anyway if the threads are shot.

------------------
Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

As stated above chemicals but I would also suggest putting the spare tire on and put the cars weight back onto it to help hold everything while you break the nut loose.

------------------
RickN
White 88GT 5spd
White 85GT Auto
White 99 F250SD 7.3PSD 6spd
1956 Ford 860 Tractor w/ Freeman Loader
20Ft Tilt Bed Trailer

What is there that you are trying to SAVE ? it all looks like it's been USED for a boat anchor already !

Cutting torch.
new axle
new hub
new rotor
nbew bearings.
its all a waste, cut your losses.

^^^^^^^^ Completely agreed. And don't drive it in the ocean anymore!

I only try to save the knuckles, the rest of the frame is ok except few spots that are already repaired, the worst on this car is that 99% of the bolts are stuck and yes it has seen salt it has seen canadian winter but its really the best I could find here

unbolt the strut, unbolt the A arm from the cradle, when you see that the cradle is garbage then pop the axle out with a pry bar, and throw away.

Are you saying someone welded the nuts to the axle?

Cutting disc - cut the axle to the inside of the nut (you will probably have to go through the studs and lip around the shaft as well), the remainder could them be unscrewed. In any event you are looking at a new axle if it has been welded (or at least a new end).

I would check to see if you can remove the 3 bolts that are holding the bearing hub to the spindle first. If these are not going to come out you may have to replace the spindle as well.

If you use a torch you stand the risk of setting the hub and CV boot on fire as they are filled with grease.
I second trying to get in there with a small cutting wheel. Slice 3/4 of the way through the nut. Then place a chisel in the groove that you cut and hit sharply with a hammer. The nut should break loose. If it doesn't then cut the groove a little deeper and try again. Don't worry about the hub as its probably shot anyway.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

What moose and dennis said !! cut the nut with the disk in 2 places ....
if parts are scarce in your area ,,try to save the threads,at least as much as possible ,,You can rethread the next smaller size if the metal is good ,,this will be a slow process ,,after clean up the cost of thread die may make machineshop rethread price look good ..
Best to replace if parts available ..shipping would not be to bad from fiero store in conn
If you have enough good thread left (did not look like it) you may be able to use thinner washer and have enough thread to stick out from nut

you will destoy the hub trying to slice the nut, the nut is recessed.
Maybe with a ton of patience and time, you could do it with a dremel tool with a small carbide burr.
the axle threads are shot anyway, the best you could hope for is to save the hub, the knuckle should not be a problem.

If you are writing off the axle, there could be one other way. use a cutoof disc to cut the axle as close to the nut as you can without damaging the hub collar. you will likely losse a wheel stud, but you can press a new one in.
that will give you some room to work the nut with the dremel on the side.
OR, you could then drill out the axle, the center is not hardend, but the outer 1/3 will be. if you drill it out far enough you should b e able to snap off the nut.

the torch is way quicker tho. if you are good with one, or know someon who is, you can burn that nut off without too much collateral damage. cool the cv joint and the back side of the bearing with a spray bottle.

For sure you will lost the bearing. You can find a good new one for less than 50$, they are very common on Front wheel drive GM. You should buy a pair, looking at this one I can imagine what the pass side looks like. Mine were rusted but not like this.

Remove as much material as you can from the bearing, then you will have access to the nut to cut it. Make sure you dont cut in the axel threads unless you have a spare axel. Usually nut washer and seal comme with the new bearings.

But, as tated by others, before you put to much time and money on this, you better have a look at the subframe starting by the frame rails. Unless the bottom of the car spend a lot of time under water, the space-frame certainaly have rust damage.

------------------
"I'm not driving too fast, . . . I'm just flying too low."

4.9 ongoing project

Air chisle, pound the nut and split it off.

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: you will destoy the hub trying to slice the nut, the nut is recessed. Maybe with a ton of patience and time, you could do it with a dremel tool with a small carbide burr. the axle threads are shot anyway, the best you could hope for is to save the hub, the knuckle should not be a problem. If you are writing off the axle, there could be one other way. use a cutoof disc to cut the axle as close to the nut as you can without damaging the hub collar. you will likely losse a wheel stud, but you can press a new one in. that will give you some room to work the nut with the dremel on the side. OR, you could then drill out the axle, the center is not hardend, but the outer 1/3 will be. if you drill it out far enough you should b e able to snap off the nut. the torch is way quicker tho. if you are good with one, or know someon who is, you can burn that nut off without too much collateral damage. cool the cv joint and the back side of the bearing with a spray bottle.

Yes you wil lose the hub if you apply the cutting wheel but look at the picture. It looks as though the wheel hub was under water for quite some time. We've worked on dozens of Fieros and I've never seen one look that eroded!!!! I'd venture to say that the hub and axle are already toast.

Looking at the second picture I see a huge pile of rust. If the frame and subframe are wasted, as it appears, just cut the axel nut off with a torch. Being nice to it will not allow you to save much of anything unrusted anyway.

sorry to intrude. but what size of socket will fit the nut? i dont have a socket big enough and so i need to go out and buy one/ or borrow one from a friend.

quote Originally posted by joshh44: sorry to intrude. but what size of socket will fit the nut? i dont have a socket big enough and so i need to go out and buy one/ or borrow one from a friend.

30mm. It'll feel loose on the nut, but the 29mm is much too tight. 30mm works well.

The axle looks like a lost cause. I would unbolt the bearing assembly by removing the 3 T55 torx bolts then pull the axle out of the tranny. You will not be able to pull it the whole way out of the knuckle but you will have more room to cut the axle off. The axle nut on a Fiero is 30mm but who knows what that thing in the picture has become. John

thanks
mine doesnt look that like the one in the photo thats for sure! it doesnt even look like a nut anymore.