my car idles now!!! I donno how big of a deal this will be to you guys, but it seems like most/everyone is using chipped/stock 3800 ECU's. I'm running Megasquirt I with extra firmware. ECU is controlling spark, fuel, idle,knock sensors, wideband, and stuff. The whole ECU cost me 250 bucks which isn't much more than a burned chip and is about 100000X more flexible.
Ill consider doing a writeup if people are interested.

I could use some help though. I found a guy that knew the spark trigger angle (apparently 70 degrees) and it must be decently close because engine idles fine, but tuning would be a lot easier with the stock fuel and ignition maps. does anyone have them???? Right now the whole map is an educated guess and thats the worst case scenario when tuning

What format are you looking for them in? Basically how do they need to be layed out?

Congrats... That is kick ass.
I have a friend who has done it to an older mitsubishi 4 cyl. that was how I was introduced to it, and it intrigued me.
I have an old 1966 SBC 327 that I have been tempted to megasquirt.

I know it is different than a 3800, but I would be interested in what you did, have done, and are planning to do.

I have a 3800 in my fiero (with stock OBD2 PCM) and have been playing with the idea of doing another with all after market spark and fuel control.

Again, Congrats...

-Dave

I took the easy way out and just used LS2 coils. I'm not using the 3x crank signal, just the 18x and the 1x cam signal. Have fun starting from zero on all your fuel tables. It took me quite some time to get the car where it would act like OEM at all cold start temps and where it wouldn't spike rich or lean at all delta TPS values. I've been daily driving my 3800 on a stand alone for over year now, I'd never even consider going back to obd.

I think I have a 3800SC file,can you open a .bin?

I can post one up assuming I can convert it from my format like I think I can.


*edit.
sorry for the tease,I have an '04 L67 file but it is in .cal format.
I have to read it from vehicle into a .bin,can't convert (that I know of).

[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 09-11-2009).]

I've got lots of .bin files, as i'm sure darkhorizon does as well since we both have powrtuners. Let me know if you want them, '02 is the best year .bin to start with as far as spark/fueling goes.

My ecotecfiero's brain is Megasquirt as well, isn't it the best thing when you get it running puts the biggest smile on your face, someone with a chipped ECM, or carb saddly will never experience this happiness.

Just curious, what is the advantage to doing it this way instead of just using a regular PCM and tuning it? (serious question, I really don't know)

Traction control, boost control, progressive meth control, wideband o2 feedback, programmable outputs, etc. Getting rid of the MAF sensor and running based on MAP sensor makes things a LOT easier to tune. There are no 'tricks' needed to get more headroom on the MAF. It also allows you to much easier get the car to idle rock solid on huge injectors at only 700 RPMs.

For day-to-day driveability on over 90% of the average swaps, there is no need for the stand alone. Once you go big dog and want to ramp in timing and boost based on load, rpm, or vss, the ability to do so all within the engine management is a huge benefit. When spraying nitrous or methanol, there are a lot of features incorporated as fail safes and also the ability to do so in a linear fashion. Think of the methanol pump wired through a solid state relay and the relay triggered by an additional injector output. The more duty cycle you command on that extra output, the more the pump runs. If you command only small duty cycle, you get a little spray, and when you command full duty cycle, you get the full onset of methanol. This means that at 7psi you can run the pump a lot slower, and as boost peaks over 20psi, you ramp in the duty cycle of the pump to get a greater volume of meth. Even things such as a configurable switched output is really nice to have. For example, my intercooler pump will only turn once my engine coolant temp reaches 150*F and then the TPS value is over 20%. Now, this isn't all that big of a deal but for daily driving, I don't need the pump running constantly. Also, if I'm just going from my apartment to my class in the morning, the car usually won't even get to 150* operating temp. When I go to the track, I have it run all the time, but in my average commute, its not necessary.

This is just a tiny portion of all the things the stand alone has to offer.

quote Originally posted by Jncomutt: Traction control, boost control, progressive meth control, wideband o2 feedback, programmable outputs, etc. Getting rid of the MAF sensor and running based on MAP sensor makes things a LOT easier to tune. There are no 'tricks' needed to get more headroom on the MAF. It also allows you to much easier get the car to idle rock solid on huge injectors at only 700 RPMs. For day-to-day driveability on over 90% of the average swaps, there is no need for the stand alone. Once you go big dog and want to ramp in timing and boost based on load, rpm, or vss, the ability to do so all within the engine management is a huge benefit. When spraying nitrous or methanol, there are a lot of features incorporated as fail safes and also the ability to do so in a linear fashion. Think of the methanol pump wired through a solid state relay and the relay triggered by an additional injector output. The more duty cycle you command on that extra output, the more the pump runs. If you command only small duty cycle, you get a little spray, and when you command full duty cycle, you get the full onset of methanol. This means that at 7psi you can run the pump a lot slower, and as boost peaks over 20psi, you ramp in the duty cycle of the pump to get a greater volume of meth. Even things such as a configurable switched output is really nice to have. For example, my intercooler pump will only turn once my engine coolant temp reaches 150*F and then the TPS value is over 20%. Now, this isn't all that big of a deal but for daily driving, I don't need the pump running constantly. Also, if I'm just going from my apartment to my class in the morning, the car usually won't even get to 150* operating temp. When I go to the track, I have it run all the time, but in my average commute, its not necessary. This is just a tiny portion of all the things the stand alone has to offer.

Wow. Okay, that is quite an advantage.

On a side note, I have a somewhat similar deal with my intercooler pump also. Instead of wiring it to run constant, I just have a switch to turn it on. Always wondered if there was some reason that was a bad idea, but perhaps not....