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Torque Specs on spark plugs? by MisterHolaMan
Started on: 09-05-2009 12:30 AM
Replies: 7
Last post by: MisterHolaMan on 09-08-2009 11:22 PM
MisterHolaMan
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Report this Post09-05-2009 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MisterHolaManSend a Private Message to MisterHolaManDirect Link to This Post
I needed new plugs for the 86 Fiero SE I just got, and I need to know the torque specs on it. Any help?

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jetman
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Report this Post09-05-2009 01:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
The Haynes manual calls for 84 to 180 in-lbs.
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MisterHolaMan
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Report this Post09-05-2009 10:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MisterHolaManSend a Private Message to MisterHolaManDirect Link to This Post
Thanks! Why is there such a large space for adjustability?
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Marvin McInnis
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Report this Post09-05-2009 10:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Marvin McInnisClick Here to visit Marvin McInnis's HomePageSend a Private Message to Marvin McInnisDirect Link to This Post
Because any torque within that range has been determined to be satisfactory. 84 in-lbs (7 ft-lb) is high enough to guarantee adequate plug seating and retention, and 180 in-lb (15 ft-lb) is low enough not to damage the plug or threads.

In the case of bolted connections, the purpose of an assembly torque spec is to guarantee a certain amount of preload in the bolt or stud. But in the case of spark plugs the primary purpose of the torque spec is to guarantee adequate plug seating 1) to achieve gas sealing, and 2) to provide controlled heat flow out of the plug into the head. FWIW, most spark plugs that are installed without using a torque wrench end up being overtightened.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 09-05-2009).]

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MisterHolaMan
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Report this Post09-05-2009 11:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MisterHolaManSend a Private Message to MisterHolaManDirect Link to This Post
Good info, but is there any way to get at the plugs on the other side of the engine? Me and my friends worked for ages tryiog to find a way, but no luck.
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jetman
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Report this Post09-05-2009 11:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
Some folks remove the deck lid while others will pull a bolt out of the bone then use a ratchet strap from trunk latch to engine eye hook to gain an extra inch or two.

I usually use a ratchet with a head that articulates, a 4-inch extension and a thin walled plug socket. I can fit my arms back there although it's not comfortable and I get scratched up but i don't need to move the engine or anything.

If you're new to Fiero's and removing the front side plugs, you'll need to clean out the plug wells of debris, strong air hose works as well as maunaly cleaning with a pick. An overnight soaking of PB blaster will be your best friend, use anti-sieze on your new plugs.

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jetman
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02greens10
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Report this Post09-05-2009 11:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 02greens10Send a Private Message to 02greens10Direct Link to This Post
Remove the decklid, and spray down the plugs with PB blaster. Take a pointy scribe and dig out the rust and debris from around the plug. This helps you get the socket completely on and prevents the debris from going into the engine when you remove the plug.
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MisterHolaMan
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Report this Post09-08-2009 11:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MisterHolaManSend a Private Message to MisterHolaManDirect Link to This Post
Thanks. jetman was right, this is the first Fiero Ive ever owned. Before I found mine and fell for it, I never thought I would own a Fiero.

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