the c in the word pontiac it not lit as bright as the rest of pontia on the rear of my gt. could it be a blown bulb behind the c?
whats the best way to fix it?
thanks

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2004 yamaha r1
1987 fiero gt

Best way is to pull the lenses and replace all the bulbs with brighter ones. they are not up against anything inside the lamp housing so going to the higher wattage same base ones works and really makes the lettering stand out at night.

But from what I remember, it's not perfectly even lighting all across inside there.

In fact if you go to home depot, the yard lighting section you can find up to 18 watt versions of that lamp.

quote Originally posted by timgray: In fact if you go to home depot, the yard lighting section you can find up to 18 watt versions of that lamp.

How funny is this... I was just wondering if it was possible to replace any and all bulbs in our cars with brighter ones? From a safety standpoint, I would like to replace all the side marker & brake lights (anything exterior) with much brighter bulbs. But, when replacing bulbs with something brighter, don't you have to replace the fuses as well and how do you know exactly what "watt" bulb to replace it with?

www.rodneydickman.com used to sell brighter bulbs for the tail lights. His warning was that too bright of a bulb generates too much heat and can melt the bulb housing. I replaced ones in my 88 GT with a set of his brigher bulbs. I left the stock bulbs in my 87 GT. So if you get another size bulb, be careful on what size you get.

quote Originally posted by Sofa King: How funny is this... I was just wondering if it was possible to replace any and all bulbs in our cars with brighter ones? From a safety standpoint, I would like to replace all the side marker & brake lights (anything exterior) with much brighter bulbs. But, when replacing bulbs with something brighter, don't you have to replace the fuses as well and how do you know exactly what "watt" bulb to replace it with?

The size of the fuse should be based on the capacity of the wire connected to it, not the load you are putting on it. Changing the fuse to a higher rating might cause the wire to melt causing shorts and maybe even fire.

quote Originally posted by Terry_w: The size of the fuse should be based on the capacity of the wire connected to it, not the load you are putting on it. Changing the fuse to a higher rating might cause the wire to melt causing shorts and maybe even fire.

Good call...Unfortunately, installing higher wattage bulbs WILL increase the current. Current = Power (watts) divided by Voltage (amps). You would need to ensure the current increase was nominal, or upgrade the wiring. Don't put a larger fuse in, Terry_w is right, it could cause a fire.

wyatt,

You probably just have a burned out bulb, some of the light is bleeding over into the "C" letter. Just open the decklid, pop off those square black caps. The screws for the taillights are under those black caps, # 31:



Here's some good info about the various bulbs for the P-O-N-T-I-A-C lights for the '86-88 GT:

http://www.geocities.com/mo....PONTIAC-lights.html

Mike

Just an FYI that sometimes it is not the bulb that's at fault.
Make sure to check the contact pins of the socket the bulbs plug into.
Rusty and/or corroded contacts can allow the bulb to work
but at a reduced voltage. Just something to keep in mind....

Kit

Do they make LED style 194 wedge style bulbs that would fit and be extra bright such as a 9 LED cluster without drawing too much current?

Thanks Guys
will pull it apart this weekend and try fix it, looks easy to fix..
great info Nosferatu187 thanks

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2004 yamaha r1
1987 fiero gt

Has anyone here placed the colored vinyl caps on the bulbs to change the color of the letters??? ie: use a blue cap and the PONTIAC lights up purple??

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Without question, the greatest invention in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I grant you that the wheel was also a fine invention, but the wheel does not go nearly as well with pizza.
-- Dave Barry

JimmyS had green inserts made that matched the stock red ones. I think they were one offs tho...

Personally I wouldn't want the pontiac as bright as above out of courtesy to other drivers... it is not meant to be anything other than a lit brand identification. To have it as bright as or brighter than the brake lights would be a pain in the arse for people behind you to look at...

I removed the red lens behind the PONTIAC and used colored "gels" from out theatrical lighting inventory.

Worked great to change the color.

My GT taillights were crap so I cut that portion out on both sides with a scroll saw.
I then jigged out the lettering "PONTIAC" and bought some dark blue stained glas at Hobby Lobby.
Cut it into two pieces about 3"X11" and glued it behind the lettering.
Looks pretty darn sharp.

Any pictures Never2Old?

I will see tomorrow if my son can post some.
I myself don't have a camera.
With the lenses cut out the taillights ,brake lights, and flashers are really bright.
NASA called and told me to shut them off.

My Pontiac lights don't light up, but my brake lights work fine.
Is there a separate fuse used on these lights?

quote Originally posted by FieroJonney: My Pontiac lights don't light up, but my brake lights work fine. Is there a separate fuse used on these lights?

The PONTIAC lights should be on when the key is on.

quote Originally posted by FieroJonney: My Pontiac lights don't light up, but my brake lights work fine. Is there a separate fuse used on these lights?

You're from Pontiac Mich. You really want to get the PONTIAC lights working. I've heard they are on the same circuit as the blower motor for the coil cooling fan located under the carpet in the rear passenger corner. Your bulbs may also be burnt out as they are lit when ever the car is running.

Like Old Lar said.........when the key is on.....not necessarly running.
Took pictures tonight and noticed one tail light was not on, so we just took a picture of the blue lights.
My son will e-mail it to me.
How do I get it on the forum?

Tried again last night with all light working but glare was too bright.........Any ideas?

Brighter LEDs work great and LESS draw. The other ideas all sound great. I'm all for changing up tail lights even if it is just improving what is there.

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Why fight to be accepted by people you don't actually want to be like?

quote Originally posted by Larryh86GT: You're from Pontiac Mich. You really want to get the PONTIAC lights working. I've heard they are on the same circuit as the blower motor for the coil cooling fan located under the carpet in the rear passenger corner. Your bulbs may also be burnt out as they are lit when ever the car is running.

That blower motor isn't working either. Thought it just went bad. What can I do to fix these things? Blower motor and PONTIAC lights.
Thanks

Blower motor comes on when the radiator fan comes on (turn on A/C).

lol radiator doesn't work either

quote Originally posted by NOLUCK13:

Noluck- Any concerns with high heat of the brighter lights? I love the look, but would be afraid to melt my new tail light lenses.

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: Noluck- Any concerns with high heat of the brighter lights? I love the look, but would be afraid to melt my new tail light lenses.

Nope... been this way for 3 years now. I did some research before I did it. They are brighter, but NOT bright enough to mess with other people on the road no matter what OTHERS say. All I can say is try it, you may like it and find out that they are brighter, but not as bright as you would think. The pic I posted is of car in garage and NO brake lights on, just normal running lights... best of luck. Below is one post I saw, have another one but can't find it now.

Brighter "P O N T I A C" taillights
Using brighter bulbs - 86-88 GTs only
I've been told I can use bulb #921, which is twice as bright
as the standard bulbs to make it more readable.
One of my Pontiac Emblem lights burned out... or so I thought, until I pulled it out. The socket was melted. In fact, all four sockets were deformed. There are 921s in my car that must have been put there by the previous owner. I'd be careful about replacing the standard lamps with a higher wattage.
As a matter of fact, let me pull out my 'GE Lighting Miniature & Sealed Beam Lamp Catalog'...
The 921 is a T5 wedge base lamp. The 'T5' signifies a tubing diameter of 5/8" (5 X 1/8"). It runs on 12.8 volts and consumes 1.40 amps (WOW!). It delivers approximately 21 mean spherical candlepower (don't worry about this, just remember the higher the number, the brighter the lamp output) and is rated for 500 hours of operation. So, the total wattage for four lamps is over 70W, which is more than a high beam filament! Now I'm starting to worry about my ignition switch.
The standard 194 lamp is a T3-1/4 (about .40" dia.), consumes .27A @ 14V, delivers 2 mean spherical candlepower (MSC) and should last 2500 hours. The 168 is also a T3-1/4 lamp, consumes .35A @ 14V, delivers 3 MSC and has a life rating of 1500 hours.
To make the emblem brighter, you need to match the wedge base, operating volts, and increase the MSC. Here are some other T5 suggestions:
Lamp Volts Amps MSC Life (hours)
904 13.5 0.69 4 5000
906 13.0 0.69 6 1000
912 12.8 1.00 12 1000
916 13.5 0.54 2 10000 (not brighter, but will last forever)
917 12.8 1.20 10 1200
918 12.8 0.56 6.5 500
923 12.8 0.91 12.5 500 (a good compromise?)
There are others, but the life or MSC is less than the standard lamp. The 912, 917 and 923 might be good choices because they increase the light output considerably, and don't run as hot as the 921. With this information, you can make a choice that best fits your needs.

[This message has been edited by NOLUCK13 (edited 09-10-2009).]

Hey... looks like there is some direct drop in LED replacement bulbs out there!!

http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

I had been hunting around, but I was having no luck till I read NoLuck13's write up, and was able to refine my search, and bam!!

This might be a great option for us, I'm going to do some more reading and probably pick some up to experiment with!

**edit** More googling on what intensity of bulb I should get. It appears that the standard 194 bulbs are 25 lumens? Does that sound right? Out of the 120 degree bulbs on that site, they have ones that are 20 lumens, then jump up to 60 lumens. Do you guys think the 20 lumen ones would be sufficient for the 120 degree bulbs, or should I go with the 60? Or should I look at the bulbs that are 360 degree?

[This message has been edited by Trinten (edited 09-10-2009).]

quote Originally posted by NOLUCK13: To make the emblem brighter, you need to match the wedge base, operating volts, and increase the MSC. Here are some other T5 suggestions: Lamp Volts Amps MSC Life (hours) 904 13.5 0.69 4 5000 906 13.0 0.69 6 1000 912 12.8 1.00 12 1000 916 13.5 0.54 2 10000 (not brighter, but will last forever) 917 12.8 1.20 10 1200 918 12.8 0.56 6.5 500 923 12.8 0.91 12.5 500 (a good compromise?) There are others, but the life or MSC is less than the standard lamp. The 912, 917 and 923 might be good choices because they increase the light output considerably, and don't run as hot as the 921. With this information, you can make a choice that best fits your needs.

Where would one find some of these specific model number bulbs? Would they have to be special ordered?

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: Where would one find some of these specific model number bulbs? Would they have to be special ordered?

I got mine @ wal-mart... I would think any auto parts place would have them.

I ran 912 bulbs in both of my GTs for over four years and about 35-40k on each car. i never had a single bulb burn out during that time nor did i have any issues with heat damage.

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Great information. Thank you guys.

it was blown globe, i replaced it with 1 of the spare dash globes i had laying around after fitting my toms digital dash kit, looks and works fine now. thanks guys

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2004 yamaha r1
1987 fiero gt