If I shot the second layer of base and don’t see any sandpapers scratches before I shot the clear, is there a chance they appear, lets say after a day? The 20-30 minutes time is enough for the base to show any imperfections? This is for a two stages acrylic paint.

Did you say you were using the original 308 Ferrari red? If so you'll need more than two coats, as I previously mentioned. But if you can't see sand scratches, then you'll be fine to shoot the clear as far as that goes.
Edit: BTW that's Rosso red, a very common color for folks to choose to paint the Fiero & other cars. It's transparent enough to need at least 4 coats of base color.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

"The police said he committed suicide: he shot himself in the head - twice!" (real news story)

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 01-14-2010).]

I just wait myself for the basecolor to turn uniform flat, then clear it. Some clears allow up to 1 or 2 days before it has to be cleared. Even many colored graphics jobs, I try to clear it all within a single workday. One that has 7 or 8 colors may mean you have a 20 hour workday. Ive done many an all niter. If you have any doubt about scratches, read your data sheet on the paint your using and see what timeframe they give you between basecolor and clear. You may be able to let your base set for a weekend before you have to clear it. Colder surface temps like a cold garage may even extend that time.

[This message has been edited by Chris Hodson (edited 01-15-2010).]

The guy at the paint shop told me that the color is from the newer Ferrari. I will call him to ask what time frame I have between base and clear in order to let the base set and show any imperfections.

quote Originally posted by Chris_86GT: The guy at the paint shop told me that the color is from the newer Ferrari. I will call him to ask what time frame I have between base and clear in order to let the base set and show any imperfections.

Check the formula to see how much clear is in the color (base coat). If it has a lot, plan to shoot at least 3 & probably 4 coats.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Angels at the back door, everything is alright, all we need is some direction.
Every time the wind blows, everything we don't know turns into a revelation.
And it all adds up inside our head....
Time is wastin'...

I found the technical data sheet of my base coat online. According to this I have to sand 1000-1200 before base and I have a three days period before clear.

http://www.resene.com.au/au..._LE_2K_Bcoat_TDS.pdf

I read the prep part because I couldnt believe 1000 grit I would never sand anthing with that fine to paint over, not even with laquer. I figure it had to be some new factory moron talking without knowing anything. I use 1000 grit to color sand prior to buffing out a show car. What I see though is that is for WET sanding, but still I cant believe that. Note that it DOES say 360/400/500 right above that for DRY SANDING. I always dry sand. The ONLY time I wet sand now is when Im going to blend in paint on a spot repair. I even dry sand for the past few years prior to buffing. My recommendation still stands to dry sand your car with 400, then basecoat.

You could sand fresh epoxy primer with 1000 wet & have paint stick to it (fresh epoxy doesn't have to be sanded at all to paint over it). Except fresh epoxy is too sticky to sand with 1000...
I agree with Roger: Sand it with 400 wet or if that makes you nervous use 500 wet - nothing finer.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

There is no problem that cannot be solved with the *right application* of high explosives.