Doing the conversion from the original SI alternator to a newer CS unit seems pretty straightforward (with the splicing in of a new pigtail), assuming one has the "correct" CS unit to install.
My question is - Other than the mounting tab differences (see image below), is the clocking of the back of the alternator an issue, or can the alternator simply be taken apart and the back rotated?
Are there any other variations or differences in CS130 alternators that might cause an installation problem.
The reason I ask is that I have an opportunity to buy a new/rebuilt alternator listed for a '94 Beretta/Grand Am for a good price, but I'm not sure it will actually "fit" my '86 GT.
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04:32 PM
PFF
System Bot
Pyrthian Member
Posts: 29569 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
if you get the alternator for the '88 Fiero - it has the mounts in the same place as your original alternator if you can - get the 5-groove pulley, otherwise you will either need to use your original pulley
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04:45 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Patrick, It should be no problem to remove the three bolts that hold the case together and clock the alternator. In fact I've never seen an alt. that could not be clocked. I tried to convert mine to a CS130, but I had bought the wrong model- wrong mounting holes. Anyway, when I prepared to do the conversion, I found information online that was perfect for any alternator conversion: http://www.madelectrical.com/ There is so much information here it is just amazing. After I decided not to do my conversion, I still used some of the information here to rewire the Fiero for better electrical system performance. Check them out.
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06:43 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Ang, thanks for that link. Looks like lots of good info there!
So just to clarify this, as long as the CS130 alternator has the mounting tabs in the right location (12 and 6 o'clock), then clocking (rotating) the back of the alternator (and splicing in the new plug) is the only other thing I need to be aware of for the alternator to work with an '86 GT?
In other words, will a CS130 alternator (A1430) listed for a '94 Beretta work with my '86 GT as long as the mounting tabs are at 12 and 6 o'clock and I rotate the back of it to have the wiring accessing it from the correct angle?
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09:01 PM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
Patrick: in the photo you posted above, the left alternator will fit a Fiero, but the right one will not. Every GM FWD car with a 60-degree V6 that I've seen (which includes the Beretta you mentioned) has the type shown on the right. In other words, it won't fit.
The '88 Fiero V6 alternator is a sure bet.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 08-25-2009).]
Yes, it SHOULD work, what you will need to do (what I failed to do), is make sure the distance BETWEEN the mounting holes (center to center) is the right dimension. That is why mine would not work - I secured the alt. with the pivot bolt, but the top bolt was 1/4 inch below the adjustment slot. If you can find a car that used a CS130 with the same center to center measurement then it will work. Mad Electrical has the information on properly wiring it up, as it will be different than wiring on the old SI style alt.
Yeup, that should work. As long as the tabs are in the right spot you can clock the case to the correct position for the Fiero. From there, the install is very straight-forward. You might want to inspect your stock alt bracket while you have it apart for cracks as well. Mine had a small crack in it so I ordered a thicker bracket from the fiero store. The cracked bracket flexes just enough to let the alt squeal, even with an underdrive and idler pulley. Heck, the idler is probably the only thing holding it together right now. After I pull the bracket off, I think I'll donate it to my casting professor as an example to use in his class of bad casting design...
I have an '86 that I'm working on getting it running right and I got it as a basket case so I never had the original alt running on it in the first place. I needed a new one so I just bought the CS130 and the pigtail off RockAuto.
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09:48 PM
Ratfink Member
Posts: 1045 From: Opelika,Alabama,USA Registered: Nov 2008
I just put an 88 2.6 alternator in My 86 GT no problem! the first one I ordered was for a 4 cyl In a 2.8 box.The next one was the correct one. Make sure the pulley has 5 groves. The wire's worked fine without rotating the case, Be sure to splice on the new end to the harness! Good luck, It is a great improvement.
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09:55 PM
spark1 Member
Posts: 11159 From: Benton County, OR Registered: Dec 2002
Patrick: in the photo you posted above, the left alternator will fit a Fiero, but the right one will not. Every GM FWD car with a 60-degree V6 that I've seen (which includes the Beretta you mentioned) has the type shown on the right. In other words, it won't fit.
Blacktree, you're just messing with me, aren't you?
From this thread Here, you can see that it's mentioned that the alternator on the right side is for a V6 Fiero and the one on the left is for the '87-'88 4-banger. If that isn't correct, then spark1 has some explaining to do.
So, are we at least all in agreement now that the mounting tabs need to be at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions for all V6 Fieros?
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10:43 PM
PFF
System Bot
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Yes, it SHOULD work, what you will need to do (what I failed to do), is make sure the distance BETWEEN the mounting holes (center to center) is the right dimension. That is why mine would not work - I secured the alt. with the pivot bolt, but the top bolt was 1/4 inch below the adjustment slot. If you can find a car that used a CS130 with the same center to center measurement then it will work.
Hmmm.... good point. Problems like this are what I wanted to find out about.
Are you saying then that there may be differences with this distance between various CS130 alternators, or is the CS130 a standard size and the problem might be with CS alternators which aren't CS130 models? I hope I'm making that question clear. [EDIT] After re-reading your posts, I think you're saying that among CS130 units themselves, there may be differences in the distance between the mounting holes. Right?
Does anyone have a V6 alternator out of their Fiero (mine's still in the GT) that they could measure the center to center measurement of the mounting holes? It would be much appreciated. I could then phone the fella selling the Beretta alternator and ask him to measure that one.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-25-2009).]
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10:59 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
You might want to inspect your stock alt bracket while you have it apart for cracks as well. Mine had a small crack in it so I ordered a thicker bracket from the fiero store.
I installed Dodgerunner's automatic belt tensioner bracket/kit last year. (Best money I've spent on the GT.) I had a good look at my factory bracket and fortunately it was fine, but thanks for suggesting to have a look.
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11:05 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Is it safe to assume then that the pulley from the original SI alternator will fit the replacement CS alternator if the CS130 alternator I get either doesn't have a pulley or it's the wrong one?
Ok, so the bracket is 7 inches from the top of the mounting hole to the bottom of the adjustment ear.
That's great, but is there any way you could translate that into the distance between the centers of the two holes? When I phone the fella with the Beretta alternator, that's what he'll be measuring and what I'll have to be comparing measurements to. It's only a difference of a quarter inch between the right and "wrong" alternators, so we can't just be "close".
quote
Originally posted by Alibi:
On the extra groove on the pulley you can run the 6 groove just fine on a 5 groove belt. It won't hurt it any
Although there is a half inch difference in diameter. The smaller L4 pulley used on the V6 engine would be spinning a little faster. Might actually be beneficial for someone though who has an underdrive pulley on the crankshaft and the alternator isn't quite charging enough while idling.
I'm not sure on the diameter issue, but just the extra rib won't hurt anything. If the SI pulley won't swap over and/or the Beretta pulley won't work I'll mail you my pulley from my CS130 that I ordered off RockAuto. I pulled it when I installed my Dickman idler/underdrive kit so I don't need it... I also didn't bother to check and see how many ribs it had but, like I said, it shouldn't matter (I did a search and confirmed this a couple weeks ago, actually).
The hole diameter for the adjustment (lower) slot is half an inch. The upper hole (threaded) is just shy of half an inch by about an 1/8. I wish I had some calipers on me so that I could get more precise measurements but the best I can manage is a tape measure. Also bear in mind these numbers are off an aftermarket FieroStore bracket but I don't see why they would be any different from a stock bracket.
So... from my measurements center to center would be ~6.45 inches. Bear in mind the lower adjustment slot is slightly wider than the bolt used to tighten the alternator in place (to allow it to swivel for adjustment) but I doubt GM would have made CS cases with size differences in 1/10 in. increments so I think 6.5 in. center to center would be correct for a nominal value.
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02:29 AM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
No prob, if you need it just shoot me a PM. I've got it sitting in a box with some other random Fiero brackets I just conveniently had a bracket sitting a box that came in today from TFS so its no biggie on getting the dimensions either.
I did use an impact gun to get the pulley off, but it was just an electric impact so it doesn't take too much oomfp to break it loose. The big trick was getting the center shaft from spinning. To pull it, I could hold the metal external fan when I hit it with the impact and it came loose pretty well but to put it back on I had to hand tighten it first w/ a regular open end wrench while holding the center shaft steady with a T 50 (?) torx socket in the other hand. After it was tight enough, I could then use the impact gun to tighten it up again. The shaft is keyed for a 6 point allen wrench, but I didn't have one handy but the Torx socket fit snug enough to keep it still. It was awkward to do so if you have a vice or a friend to help hold it would be easier.
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04:16 AM
Rafe Zetter Member
Posts: 277 From: Staffordshire, Great Britain Registered: Dec 2008
There are loads of '88 alternators available on ebay, but very few for the '84-'84 models. After lots and lots of searching i found a remanufactured one, I wish now I had bought an '88 alt as they put out more amps. The one I ended up with fitted the mounting bracket but the electrical connection was 90 degrees out, Just spliced a couple of inches of wire in to make it fit.
After a few miles my alt belt snapped, this happened twice more before I realised that my new has got the wrong pulley ! Unfortunately id scrapped the old alt with pulley attached...doh...
so the moral of the story is beware what you buy on ebay motors, car and parts dealers are notoriously dodgy at the best of times, and especially so when they are hiding behind the internet.
Im now on the hunt for an alternator pulley ;-/
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06:25 AM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
Patrick, I have both the 10/12/15 SI series model & the CS model disassembled completely for a welder project I'm doing. I can take any measurements you need, as well as give you any pinout info you might want to be sure your pigtail is correct. I can also send you any hi-res pics if you need them. For reference, my CS came out of my '85 duke coupe... If you would like, I also have both mounting brackets removed, and I can compare those side-by-side as well so you can see if you will be able to just swap a CS bracket onto your application... Just let me know what you need.
-Paul
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01:17 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Thanks Paul. All I really need at this moment is perhaps confirmation that the distance between the centers of the mounting holes on the alternator is 6.5 inches. Alibi was kind enough to supply this measurement, but he was going by the bracket alone and there might be a slight margin of error there.
Patrick, it looks like there has been a lot of traffic since I last checked in. Ok, there are a few models of CS alternator. If i remember correctly the number refers to the stator diameter in millimeters. I think there is one smaller than the CS130, and I know there is a CS144. As far as different center to center dimensions of the CS130, I don't know. I didn't find one, but that doesn't mean that it doesn't exist. You also had a question about swapping pulleys. The pulleys swap between old and new styles, the shaft diameters are the same. That part of the swap worked for me.
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04:09 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Ok, there are a few models of CS alternator. If i remember correctly the number refers to the stator diameter in millimeters. I think there is one smaller than the CS130, and I know there is a CS144. As far as different center to center dimensions of the CS130, I don't know. I didn't find one, but that doesn't mean that it doesn't exist.
I'm confused again. Was the alternator with the wrong dimensions that didn't work for you a CS130 or was it a different model CS alternator?
I'm just trying to determine (from what you've stated) if there are indeed CS130 alternators which have the wrong dimensions or if it's possibly just other CS alternators (such as a CS144) which would be a problem.
Ang, I hate to beat this to death, but I'm just trying to make this clear for anyone considering this swap.
quote
Originally posted by Ang84Indy:
...make sure the distance BETWEEN the mounting holes (center to center) is the right dimension. That is why mine would not work - I secured the alt. with the pivot bolt, but the top bolt was 1/4 inch below the adjustment slot. If you can find a car that used a CS130 with the same center to center measurement then it will work.
The one I bought is a CS130. I don't know if there is a 130 with the right distance center to center. A CS with a larger stator will have a larger case diameter. It might be similar in size to an old SI style and be more likely to have a similar center to center measurement. I wanted a smaller case diameter than my original SI to make changing the alternator easier. Hope this clears things up.
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04:44 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
The one I bought is a CS130. I don't know if there is a 130 with the right distance center to center.
Hope this clears things up.
Heh heh, I think you've cleared it up in a roundabout sort of way. As far as I know, the recommended '88 V6 Fiero alternator is a CS130. Therefore it appears that it is indeed possible for some models of the CS130 alternator to be the wrong size to fit the factory V6 Fiero mounting bracket.
Glad we got that covered. Thanks Ang.
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05:06 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I found some helpful info at a couple of sites. the first image of a 12SI alterntor shows some dimensions. It appears that the actual distance between the center of the mounting holes is 6.6", or 6 9/16". You were very close, Alibi.
Brackets are designed to accept the popular G.M. alternators, both internally and externally regulated. These include the 10SI, 12SI, and the newer CS130. On the 12 o'clock alternators, the center to center of the mounting holes must be 6-9/16 for use with our brackets. The CS130 alternators are slightly smaller in diameter than the 10SI and 12SI alternators, and are available with three different mounting ear locations as shown below. These mounting ears use a metric bolt. Our standard bracket will normally work with the CS130, 12 o'clock alternator. We can supply some brackets for the 10 or 2 o'clock alternators on a special order basis. The 2 o'clock ear is usually used on low applications, where the alternator is turned upside down. The CS130 Alternators were used on late 1980-2000 G.M. applications. The 2 o'clock alternator was used with all 2.8L V-6 applications in the late 1980's (S-10, Astro Vans etc.). The 10 o'clock alternator was used on Chevy Caprice from the late 1980's to early 1990's, and Chevy Trucks from the late 1980's to 2000. The 12 o'clock alternator was used on the 1989-93 big block Chevy applications.
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05:48 PM
PFF
System Bot
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I just talked to the fella selling the '94 Beretta alternator. I asked him to measure the distance between the centers of the mounting holes, and it appears it's just a little bit too narrow. He said it was about 6.3", whereas the Fiero apparently requires 6.6".
So does anyone here think it would be worthwhile to elongate or "notch" the upper hole in the factory bracket a quarter inch so as to fit this particular CS130 alternator, or would that weaken the bracket too much?
Here's a picture of the same setup I have with Dodgerunner's automatic belt tensioner bracket installed. The red arrow points to where the top mounting hole in the factory bracket would have to be elongated to fit a slightly narrower alternator case in place.
Should I bother, or should I just forget about trying to use the "wrong" alternator on my GT?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-26-2009).]
6.6? Cool, that is pretty close. Not bad for just eyeballing with a tape measure
Lets see here... modify a $40 bracket for a $100 alternator and possibly end up with neither working or just buying the proper alt for $100 and be done with it. I think I would just get the right alternator and be done with it. The best prices I could find was RockAuto (be sure to google for their very-commonly distributed 5% discount codes) and I believe they will also have the correct pigtail too.
The Beretta alt may be 3/10 of an inch off and I think that would be removing a good chunk of support material to get it to fit. Would it work? Probably, but knowing I had a potential weak spot in the bracket or just having something a little off would bug me after a while. Also, what would you do about replacements like going back to the correct alt but being stuck with a modified bracket?
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01:50 AM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38496 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Lets see here... modify a $40 bracket for a $100 alternator and possibly end up with neither working or just buying the proper alt for $100 and be done with it.
The reason why I was interested in using this particular alternator was because I can get it for $20, never used.
The other option I see while looking at that last image I posted is that I could actually swing the top of the alternator to the left an inch or so and use some kind of short homemade "bridge" between the top alternator mounting tab and the factory bracket. That way nothing would be altered or damaged and it would be possible to revert back to the stock setup if necessary.
Man, I know more ways of wasting time, eh?
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02:10 AM
spark1 Member
Posts: 11159 From: Benton County, OR Registered: Dec 2002
The CS130 was made in several different frame styles and connector clock locations. The one used on the 88 V6 was frame style “A” clock position “5". The L4 used frame style “F” clock position “9". The Beretta one appears to be a “splt G” frame style (whatever that is) with a clock position “5".
There were several other GM models that used a 100 Amp CS130 with the “A” frame and clock position “5" but with different connector pin-outs and or pulley sizes. Some of those might work if you are careful but the Beretta/Grand AM looks like a bad fit.
Oh, so you would make a small bracket to bolt to the top mount that extends past the mount with another hole spaced properly for the alt? Yeah, that would probably work too but I'm lazy :P If you do it, more power to ya
$20 *is* a good price for a brand new alt, but if it doesn't fit right...
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02:25 PM
Aug 28th, 2009
White Spyder Member
Posts: 1047 From: Gluckstadt USA Registered: Sep 2007
Been a long while since I've been on, but things have happened in RL that will probably be making/allowing me to turn my Fiero back into a daily driver.
My alternator lasted me 9 years in Las Vegas, and then didn't like sitting in the CO cold for too long. So I'm considering an alt upgrade. For the past 2 days I've checked AutoZone, Checkers & Advanced AutoParts for the right alternator and pigtail. The AutoZone numbers came up discontinued at my local stores, with no availability from the vendor either. Checkers (CSK) actually had what I believe to be a correct alt:
Ultima 01-0381 105amp $90 (V-pulley) Ultima 01-0380 100amp $90 (5-groove)
They had the 105amp and it 'looked' correct, however they did not have a pigtail for it. So I held off on getting it, for now, so I could do a bit more research.
With a request from my wife, I went to the JC Whitney site, and pulled up a '88 Fiero GT and they actually have the choices for 100a and 140a alts, new in stock! My guess is I'd still have to find a pigtail. But does anyone have any experience with the MCI alts? And would a 140a be too much for an '87 GT?