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Harmonic balancer oil leak, need advice please. by jetman
Started on: 08-12-2009 12:01 AM
Replies: 21
Last post by: KurtAKX on 08-14-2009 12:48 AM
jetman
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Report this Post08-12-2009 12:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post

It’s an 88 Duke, I performed a full cradle drop, crate engine long block all by myself, just have this gremlin of an oil leak coming from the harmonic balancer seal.

I pressed in a new seal on the bench prior to installing the timing cover, used original pulley, it leaked after 10 miles. Ok, replaced original pulley with a new harmonic balancer, it’s leaking after 10 miles.

Ok engine building pros, what’s the secret here? I figured a new seal shouldn't need to be replaced after 20 miles, an new harmonic balancer shouldn't need a sleeve, should it?

Of course, the car is here at the apartment, no tools, tempted to take it across street to Northern Auto but I really wanted to ask first.


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sjmaye
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Report this Post08-12-2009 04:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sjmayeSend a Private Message to sjmayeDirect Link to This Post
Wow, Jetman, that is weird. As I was reading your post i was going to offer getting a new balancer, but then saw you did that as well. I am not how bad a leak you are having, but I did the same work on my 88GT. Replaced the seal and balancer. I still have a very minor oily film coming out.

Just how much oil are we talking about?
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jetman
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Report this Post08-12-2009 08:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by sjmaye:

Just how much oil are we talking about?


More than enough to hurt my feelings. After a drive home from work I had at least 9 drops of oil on the frame. After thinking about it overnight, perhaps the original pulley wore down the new seal in the first 10-miles. Man alive, these stupid cars sure can humble you. I can't work on this in the apartment parking lot so if I take the car into Northern Auto, how much is book time on something like this? Should I ask them to install a new seal and a sleeve on the new harmonic balancer?
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post08-12-2009 08:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
I wouldn't get the sleeve work done if I were you. It's probably as you said... the old damper ruined your new seal. With the new damper you should have a perfect surface on it already. Getting a shop to sleeve it addds more variables into the mix.
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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post08-12-2009 09:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
I'd guess the seal got damaged or did you put some RTV on the metal part of the seal when you pressed it in. The metal to metal contact is not enought to seal well without some RTV in addition sometimes.
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ALJR
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Report this Post08-12-2009 09:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ALJRSend a Private Message to ALJRDirect Link to This Post
Also, I like to put a little light grease on the seal before assembly. This way, you don't have a dry metal to rubber contact...
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Lambo nut
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Report this Post08-12-2009 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Lambo nutSend a Private Message to Lambo nutDirect Link to This Post
Did you put the balancer in the timing cover, before you tightened the bolts? Reason I ask, you are supposed to use a centering tool, to align the seal/timing cover to the balancer on a 2.5 Duke, I just use the balancer itself. Works fine. There is enough play in the bolt holes, that the seal may not be centered to the balancer. No alignment pins like a 350 Chevy. If this be the case, you are in for some more work.

Kevin

[This message has been edited by Lambo nut (edited 08-12-2009).]

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mid engine monsters
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Report this Post08-12-2009 09:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mid engine monstersSend a Private Message to mid engine monstersDirect Link to This Post
overfilling with oil,seal in backwards,excessive crankcase pressure and or crankshaft movement all possible ,was your old balancer that chewed up where the seal rides to kill it in a few miles ?
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KurtAKX
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Report this Post08-12-2009 10:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KurtAKXSend a Private Message to KurtAKXDirect Link to This Post
My life was much easier when I learned that I could just buy a new timing cover with the seal already pressed into it.

Also, how does the diameter of the old balancer compare to that of the new balancer- is it possible they "remanned" your new one by turning the seal surface down or something similarly shady?
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fierosound
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Report this Post08-12-2009 11:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundDirect Link to This Post
Oil will creep up the keyway. I always put a light film of silicone on the key and keyways on the crank and in the balancer.

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josef644
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Report this Post08-12-2009 12:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for josef644Send a Private Message to josef644Direct Link to This Post
JM these are all exellent suggestions. I also use the balancer to center, some RTV in the keyway, and around the seal base. Please make sure you put the seal in the correct direction or it will NEVER seal. I learned that one in 1964, on a 55 Pontiac.
Joe Crawford

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-12-2009).]

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Report this Post08-12-2009 12:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Im guessing you have a slight burr or something chewing up the seal....if you did all the correct installation stuff. What does the seal look like when you take it out ?
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jetman
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Report this Post08-12-2009 01:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
Wow, it's great to have friends like all of you guys.

No,,,, I ruined my seal beacuse I took a wire wheel to the old pulley to clean it up prior to installation, I was told later that I ruined the shaft on the pulley.

Yes,,,, I did use a little RTV on the seal.

Yes,,,, I did use a little oil on the seal prior to assembly, was told later I should have used synthetic grease instead?

No,,,, I didn't know of a centering tool.

No,,,, I really think I was my own worst enemy by taking the wire wheel to the pulley, bet that killed my seal.

Thanks for all the pointers that you've given to me, I appreciate it alot. On my way home from my root canal, talked with local repair shop, the mechanic knows his stuff, will take care of this for me, drop car off on Monday.

I did a complete cradle drop, switch out long blocks all by myself, I guess a little gremlin of an oil leak isn't too bad.
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sjmaye
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Report this Post08-12-2009 02:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sjmayeSend a Private Message to sjmayeDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jetman:

Wow, it's great to have friends like all of you guys.



Goes both ways Jetman. You have always been there for us

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unboundmo
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Report this Post08-12-2009 09:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for unboundmoSend a Private Message to unboundmoDirect Link to This Post
Don't know if this solution came up but.... install the balancer with the seal wet... Meaning use break-in oil or what I used, Lucas assembly lube. I had the same problem with my 3.4/2.8L... I haven't completed the whole assembly yet but everywhere I read, you're supposed to do this..


No RTV... rtv is like silicone and will crack as soon as you start the car

RTV in the key only just incase your original key doesn't match the balancer... I also did this

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 08-12-2009).]

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2birds
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Report this Post08-13-2009 10:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2birdsSend a Private Message to 2birdsDirect Link to This Post
Is there somethng special about the Duke vs. the 2.8 balancer? Sleeving my 2.8 was simple.

I put a Fel-Pro sleeve on mine about 10 years ago, took all of a minute or two to do it, once I got the balancer off. Kit cost was under $10, too, IIRC.
Best thing I ever did to fix oil leaks (besides the distributor o-ring).
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Fierology
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Report this Post08-13-2009 11:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyDirect Link to This Post
Thanks to you, Jetman, I've just learned a bunch of good stuff.

And oh crap, I didn't center my timing cover and its already RTV'd on. How can I measure it to see if it's centered, or at least centered enough? New seal, old balancer.

Michael

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He who dies with the most toys... still dies.


Check out my restoration!

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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post08-13-2009 03:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoDirect Link to This Post
what you Should have done was, put the sealer on, place the cover on, slip the balacer in, bolt up the cover. if you already "Glued it on", either it will leak of not, no way to really check After the fact. personally, I would remove it & Do it RIGHT , Before trying to "button it up" & maybe have to do it all over again. alot easier NOW. Do ya "feel Lucky" ?
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jetman
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Report this Post08-13-2009 06:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:

what you Should have done was, put the sealer on, place the cover on, slip the balacer in, bolt up the cover. if you already "Glued it on", either it will leak of not, no way to really check After the fact. personally, I would remove it & Do it RIGHT , Before trying to "button it up" & maybe have to do it all over again. alot easier NOW. Do ya "feel Lucky" ?


Actually I did in fact put the pulley on prior to tightening the cover on but as I mentioned earlier, I did not use a "centering" tool though. I bet that if I had used the new harmonic balancer that I later purchased instead of the old pulley that I had on hand, the results may have been different.

You know Lou, I'd love to try it again but unfortunately I have the car home, the dirt and gravel apartment parking lot isn't the optimum venue to tackle this repair. I would love to conquer the challange but discression may be the better part of valor in this case. I do appreciate the encouragement though.
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Report this Post08-13-2009 09:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyDirect Link to This Post
Sorry Jetman, Lou was responding to me. You shed some light on a problem I don't want to have. And I just put my timing cover on w/o knowing that I was supposed to center it.

I'm feeling lucky

-Michael

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"A guy know's he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen

He who dies with the most toys... still dies.


Check out my restoration!

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jetman
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Report this Post08-13-2009 10:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierology:

Sorry Jetman, Lou was responding to me. You shed some light on a problem I don't want to have. And I just put my timing cover on w/o knowing that I was supposed to center it.
I'm feeling lucky
-Michael

Hey, it's all good, I buy my pencils with erasures because I'm not perfect either. If you learn to avoid a problem from my mistake, we're all better off for it.

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KurtAKX
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Report this Post08-14-2009 12:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KurtAKXSend a Private Message to KurtAKXDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierology:

Sorry Jetman, Lou was responding to me. You shed some light on a problem I don't want to have. And I just put my timing cover on w/o knowing that I was supposed to center it.

I'm feeling lucky

-Michael



Don't worry about it bro, you'll probably be good. I've never done anything special to center them, and I've not had one leak yet on a 2.5.

Word to the wise, though. If you do start getting a leak, take out the old front main seal and press the new one in to a slightly different "depth" so it runs on a fresh part of the crank pulley hub.


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