thanks to the poster who recommended looking at harbor frieght for an oil pressure tester guage. I went and picked one up for under $10 ! Hooked it up to the problem car and it shows that I do have oil pressure within the normal range at 2000 RPM's. it was showing between 35-45 pounds. So now that I know I have oil pressure I guess I can rule out that my oil pump is bad. I put the old leaky Taiwanese sensor back in and my guage reads about the same as the manual guage reads. So is my culprit the new sensor fron BW ? or should I be testing my connector plug also ? I'm about ready to just pay a mechanic to solve this problem, but I have a feeling it's not worth the $100 he would charge me

we could be talking about something different but i live thirty minutes from the fiero facorty and ed(the owner) said there is a bad batch of faulty oil senders going around

Please keep all the updates in the original thread.

In as much as everyone wants to help solve this difficulty, starting multiple threads only confuses folks and nobody can follow the sequence of problem solving suggestions and results.

I have seen this before - went through 3 or 4 sending units and they were all goofy. I found an 86 Corvette sending unit that is setup for high pressure - up to 80psi. You have to get a "bushing" to adapt the sending unit to the Fiero port. I also had a mechanical guage in the car. With the stock - new sending units, it would ldle at 15psi or less and the light would come on or it would peg the gauge to max but the mechanical gauge would read 35 to 40 at the same time. After I installed the Vette sending unit, the mech gauge and the stock guage matched.

Fiero on the left, Vette on the right:

Mech gauge with Vette sending unit:

Stock gauge with Vette sending unit:

quote Originally posted by Fieroguy13: So is my culprit the new sensor fron BW ? or should I be testing my connector plug also ? I'm about ready to just pay a mechanic to solve this problem, but I have a feeling it's not worth the $100 he would charge me

Sounds like you HAVE solved the problem. You can test the new sender by running the engine and testing the resistance of the pin on the sender to ground (the pin that the tan wire goes to). It should read 0 ohms with engine stopped, about 45-55 ohms running when warm, and never any more than 90 ohms running.