i got this alarm today, it's an Audiovox pursuit model Pro-9642ch. i have it totally wired up, with only one question so far: how should i go about wiring the door triggers in? ya know, those little doohickeys that ground out when the door/decklid/hood is open... can i make them into one giant circuit on the car, including all of them, and tap into the ONE wire input that comes off the alarm?? how would you go about doing this? it's currently the very last step of installation i have left, how should i do this one?

See if you can work off of voltage to trigger it. Most alarms allow you to trigger the alarm off of the dome light.

i believe i can, but the dome light doesn't come on if the decklid is opened, and i currently don't have a key cyl back there, another reason for the alarm. also i'm not sure where i can tap into the dome circut either

Is it possible to tap into the "Ajar" circut?

it might be, but there too, is it going to pose a problem? there's 2 ajar circuits on my car, decklids and doors...i think the door ajar light is blown though...

....

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 07-01-2009).]

It depends on the the alarm module. Many of them will have door (dome light) and an auxillary trigger input.
If you post a scan of the wiring diagram that came with the alarm we can take a look for you.

i think i got it figured out, my scanner doesn't work worth a crap with Vista (another reason why i hate vista)

The ajar circuits can both be used on the same input if need be with the aid of diodes. The set up it SIMPLE. Go buy at radioshack or similar 1N4001 diodes you'll need two of them. Now With two diodes in your hand facing the same way. Twist together the leads that on on the side WITHOUT the stripe. Now solder that to your trigger wire. Next slip a larger piece of shrink tube over both diodes then slip it back to cover your splice. Next take two lengths of wires and slip shrink tubing over each one. Solder these wires individually to each diode on the stripe side. Now slip your shrink tubes over the connections and over the diodes until the tubes rest inside the other piece of tubing. Now shrink it all down. If you are perfect you'll now have a single wire that becomes TWO. Hook each of the wires to each Ajar circuit. I believe both can be found at the chime box (BLUE DINGY THINGY). Now each ajar circuit is isolated by the diodes. Once spliced you will only see a ground if something is ajar. If the alarm sees them to be grounded you will need two more diodes to put between the splice point and the chime box with the stripe pointing at your splice.

Stu

quote Originally posted by greasemonke50613: i think i got it figured out, my scanner doesn't work worth a crap with Vista (another reason why i hate vista)

Vista??? Consider yourself lucky that you can even post in the forums

"You are trying to post in the forums, deny or allow"?

Most alarms have separate inputs for doors and trunks. I got lazy and have mine installed at Circuit City (Alarm came with free install). A few days later, noticed the alarm did not go off when the hatch back was opened. I took it back, and he ran a wire to another input on the alarm.

IT WORKS!! i finally played with wires enough, and hooked up all the sensory wires i need and all of that fun jazz now, and it now works when you open a door or try and get into my decklids! my primary concern was i had no clue how the cround switches were wired, i didn't know if they were together or not. hell, i found out my dimmer switch was bad too, couldn't figure out why the alarm kept beeping 3 times when i armed it and 4 when i disarmed it... signaling #1 door ajar when arming, and an intrusion when disarmed...unplugged the dimmer and it went away. ran inside, grabbed my backup, and swapped them out, and it was gone, no more beeps. heck it even calls for an intrusion when i disarm and my battery's about to die lol