It's that time of year again. My car needs to go through inspection next week. And just like every year my e-brake isn't working because on the passenger side caliper the pads don't lock the rotor. This is the procedure I usually follow to get the e-Brake working again:

• Loosen the equalizer at the middle of the e-Brake cable.
  
• Remove the cable and the spring from the lever on the passenger side caliper.
  
• Remove the lever nut.
  
• Rotate the actuator screw counter clockwise (or downwards) until it locks.
  
• Reinstall the lever as close to the stop as possible.
  
• Reinstall the lever nut.
  
• Reinstall the cable and the spring.
  
• Tighten the equalizer until the lever starts to move.
  

This time, if I rotate the actuator screw until it locks I'm no longer able to reinstall the lever. Let me try to explain why:

Since the lever slides over a hex-nut (6 sides), if you remove the lever the next position to reinstall it is 60 degrees further (because there are only 6 ways to slide the lever over the hex nut). It takes less than 60 degrees of rotation of the actuator screw to lock it. Meaning I can't reinstall the lever at a different position because the lever stop is in the way.

In drawing (soooo much clearer since I'm terrible at explaining these things):





Soooooo, what's next?

Could it be that your caliper sliders are seized. Normally, the piston only has to move part of the way before the pad on the piston touches the rotor, and any further application of the e-brake forces the caliper to slide. If it doesn't slide, and it's seized in a position far enough away from the piston mounted pad, then it's possible that you run out of e-brake cable movement before the pad on the piston has contacted the rotor.

Is there any adjustability in the equalizer? The threaded connection where the parking brake cables come together just under the trunk area. After rebuilding my suspension last fall, I never set up my parking brake. A few weeks back, I hooked it all back together. I needed to adjust the the tension on the equalizer. After that, everything works just as intended.


Edit: After rereading your post, I am betting that you can put a bit more tension on the equalizer. Watch your calipers as you turn the equalizer. Just don't put a load on them. Maybe your cables are stretched a bit. Good luck. Let us know what happens.


Tony
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[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 06-24-2009).]

A common problem to a malfunctioning eBrake is the brake pad indexing studs coming out of the piston slots. If this happens the piston will turn with the adjustment lever and it won't tighten on the pad to lock the brakes.
There should be a circular spring on the piston that that holds the brake pad firmly to it. This is necessary to keep the pad and piston joined when the initial adjustments are made. Your problem doesn't sound like an adjustemnt but an assembly problem. You will need to remove the caliper to check if the pad is seated to the piston.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
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Are cables good? Check outside wheel cables.
Pull on it. Check it at end. Should not be loose.

PM sent

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 06-25-2009).]

I think I will rebuild the calipers after my holiday. For now, I'm just interested in getting the car through inspection.

Just throwing around a few ideas here, would this do the trick?



(I'm good with a Dremel)

You could always change the pads and start fresh or sand the inner pad down to get the clearance to finish your adjustment of prior years. (or outer whichever one is the thickest unless the pad wear is way uneven, if it is change the pads and figure out why)

One more time before I will get the Dremel, will this do the trick:



or is that a recipe for brake failure?

It'll only do the trick if your problem isn't seized sliders, nor the brake pad pins having slipped out of the piston end, nor seized cable on the one side. Your best bet is to check everything else for proper functioning. I would think that GM would've made the cranks with 12 points if they had thought there would be instances where the free-play-to-up-tight limits would cause your problem on the assembly line.

Remember, when pulling the e-brake lever, have you foot on the brake pedal. (Brakes on)
Good Luck
Gary

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: One more time before I will get the Dremel, will this do the trick: or is that a recipe for brake failure?

I've encountered the same issue you have--I don't see any reason why your idea wouldn't work. It should at least get you past inspection. It's about the same idea as using a 12 point versus a 6 point socket. The only time the arm has any pressure on it is during handbrake use.

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Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
"You can't have too many toys!"
1988 Fiero GT
1985 Porsche 944
1966 Porsche 911
Van's RV-6 airplane-under construction

[This message has been edited by Rodrv6 (edited 06-26-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

This indeed did the trick.

I otherwise checked the caliper (without removing it) and the sliders weren't seized and it didn't look like the brake pads came loose.

I just did a 4 wheel brake job on my '87 following the instructions in my factory manual. I also replaced the parking brake cables. Everything works great. As far as the inspection goes, Florida has no vehicle inspection.

Well, my car didn't pass inspection yesterday. One reason was the left rear brake seized. If that was the only thing, I would have fixed that on the spot by loosening the equalizer a bit (forgot to test it after I tightened it). But the second reason it failed inspection is because the inspector said the exhaust was leaking. When I asked him where, he didn't know. He said he could "hear it leaking somewhere".

Now mind you, I know the sound of my car. If anything - and I mean anything - is out of the ordinary, I hear it straight away. And my car sounds exactly the same as it did last year's inspection. Or the year before that. Or before that. Not so surprising since I perhaps put 1,000 miles on it a year.

I'll take it somewhere else for inspection, but it'll have to wait until after my holiday.

There was a recall way back and the recall kit came with new pistons, seals etc for the rear brakes. It may be worth having the kit sent to you (if still available), since you are having issues anyway. That way you know the rear calipers won't have other probs.

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: One more time before I will get the Dremel, will this do the trick: or is that a recipe for brake failure?

This is exactly what mine looked like, never had a problem with that.
If you need parts for the rebuild I have several spare calipers and possibly some new rebuild seals but I have to look those up

I haven't seen anyone mention that you screw the rear caliper pistons back in using a special tool. I think its counter clockwise for the left and clockwise for the right. the lever will hit the stop and be in the right position when you put it back together. Then just slip the spring and cable back on the lever. I just did my '87 and they work great. I bought the special tool at advance auto parts but you can get it at any parts store.

quote Originally posted by Whynotreuse: I haven't seen anyone mention that you screw the rear caliper pistons back in using a special tool.

You don't need a tool. See cave. Body & chassis, brake, rear brake.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)