I'm going to be using the 4T60E with my 4.9 and have been entertaining the idea of a B&M shifter and wondered if anyone has done this, and if so, what model or brand they used.

Are you wanting to keep your stock center console? If not, B&M's Hammer is far and away the best I've ever tried. The console Hammer for 5.0 Mustangs might be made to work for your console, IDK.

i don't have an automatic in my fiero, but the plow jeep that my father and i built has a B&M ratchet shifter in it, at first i absolutely hated it 'cause i couldn't shift the dang thing for the life of me. but you get used to it and begin to hate the normal factory shifters. the ratchet shifter is awesome if you drag race alot, but not so fun if you street drive your vehicle. i'm still having a hard time getting a driveway plowed with it, but it's 'cause i don't really drive it that much, only when dad needs me to do the plow route 'cause he gets called in to plow the city streets.

I would think that it might be a little bit bulky up there is there or could there be anyway to shove it down in the concol anymore? like to where all you see is the handle or a bit of the shiter?

only way you could do it (i think) is to cut/modify/weld the handle and the actuator lever that releases the gates

the reason the Hammer is the only one offered in a console versions for the 5.0 mustangs is it is the only B&M shifter that is short enough to fit in there. Plus it's not as difficult to operate as the old Megashifter. If you're keeping the TH125, try the shifter from a '78 Z28 or something similar. If you move the knob over to the right, it has positive stops so you can bang the gears as hard as you want.

I'm doing a custom hand fabbed dash and console, so the design won't matter. I'll build the console to accommodate the shifter.

I installed a universal b&m hammer shifter and it sits lower than the factory shifter. I had to cut he mounts off the stock shifter and weld them onto the ratchet shifter. I also had to make the shift arm on the trans adjustable to get the throw right. This is on a 4t65ehd. I also mounted switches to run the trans without a computer

Isn't the Hammer for 3 speed transmissions? The 4t60e is a 4 speed, how does that work?

it's a 4speed also.

I used one on My 86 SE. Because Most trannys are forward of the vehicle the cable exits from the front. Boat Shifters exit the rear and would be kinder to our cars. I bought a 10' cable from B&M, rapped it around the console going counter clockwise back around through the tunnel and to the 4T60.

I welded on the fiero brackets and used the stock cable.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: I welded on the fiero brackets and used the stock cable.

I don't think that would work on the shifter I used. Park would be L1 on tranny and to put it in Park You have to put it in L1. But then again Mine was originally a 5 speed so I didn't have a stock one to use.

The Hammer comes with the gate plate for 4-speed automatics.

Here is joshua riedl's shifter...



Where it connects to the stock cable and the switches to control the trans...

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--180* t-stat, cams, 96-97 intake swap, FFP pulley, A/C Idler, P/S idler, ported exhaust mani's, ported lower intake, Flowmaster exhaust, EGR delete, K&N filter,
Magnecor 8.5mm wires, 36# Injectors, Darth Chip-- --13.5 @ 105--
T-62 Turbonetics/Haltech/Liquid-Air Turbo Project Underway. Shooting for 450+whp
Daily: 95 Eclipse GSX-6 bolt, 20 psi, 13.4 1/4 mi, every day.

IMO an aftermarket shifter with an auto is without purpose. You are in P R N & D 99% of the time and the only reason to shift down to 2 is when going down a very steep hill.
For racing you just program your shift points into the PCM but they are already pretty well optimized for WOT operation. Why is anything else other than the factory shifter needed and what does it give you that you don't have?

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

It gives me the ability to run a 4t65e-hd without a computer and without missing a shift or accidentally going into neutral or reverse.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: It gives me the ability to run a 4t65e-hd without a computer and without missing a shift or accidentally going into neutral or reverse.

HAH!

Nice! Thanks for the pics and info.

I just scored a used Hammer on flea-bay fro 50 buh! If it works out, cool enough. If not, I'm only out 50 beans and shipping.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: It gives me the ability to run a 4t65e-hd without a computer and without missing a shift or accidentally going into neutral or reverse.

Can you explain how you intend to shift a fully electronic transmisson without a PCM or aftermarket controller? What is going to set the line pressure and activate the shift solenoids. I believe that your intended manual operation of this trans is not possible.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Pressure fails open. Solenoid switches are seen in the picture and the torque converter is on a switch. It's the orange coupe choptop in the 2009 dells picture thread. As far as I can remember I drove I there.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: Pressure fails open. Solenoid switches are seen in the picture and the torque converter is on a switch. It's the orange coupe choptop in the 2009 dells picture thread. As far as I can remember I drove I there.

The trans pump is a variable displacement pump. The line pressure solenoid controls line pressure precisely with a PCM input and its not a straight 12V signal. Shift signals are also carefuly timed and coordinated by the PCM. Trying to run your trans in the way you describe; IMO it won't last 1000 miles!

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I am halfway there and it's survived two days on the dyno with 207hp 214tq to the tires. And the trans shop I showed it to didn't seem to have a problem with it. Actually said it was creative.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: I am halfway there and it's survived two days on the dyno with 207hp 214tq to the tires. And the trans shop I showed it to didn't seem to have a problem with it. Actually said it was creative.

Keep us posted when you reach the 1000 mile mark. Perhaps you have found a combination that works. I have my doubts about continually running with maximum line pressures so we will see.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Other than running 100% line pressure at all times, I don't see an issue with it. The solenoids are 12v energized and can work with a simple relay. The gear indicator functions, TFT sensor, IS speed sensor, etc all don't matter if there is no PCM. A converter box should take care of the VSS and you're set.

Also, I believe the lockup converter doesn't work with an ON/OFF type engagement. Its duty cycled to create a more gentle feel.

I am watching this thread with great anticipation! If this conversion works as well as you say, you have found the proverbial "Holy Grail" for some "E"-type GM trans swaps. Any chance of getting a wiring diagram / "how-to-do-it" thread on your set up?

I'm not sure if you are talking to me but it doesn't really require a diagram and I don't want responsibility if your trans logic is different than mine. But all you need to do is control 2 solenoids. I just mounted switches on the shifter right below the neutral backup switches. The big problem is downshifts. They are not polite. I will drive the car for now as is and am looking into smart relays to hook up a button shift setup.

Thanks Josh.....yes the question was directed at you. Are you manually shifting the auto gear by gear, or can you leave it in OD and it does all the auto shifting by itself? I have purchased a controller from the forum that allows me to use the shifter for P,R,N, and OD. I then have to leave it in OD and then manually shift up and down thru the gears like a clutchless "manual" or (I guess) a full manual valve-body auto. I have been trying to find paddle shifters to work with the set-up, but almost have relegated myself to using the contact buttons on my aftermarket steering wheel.