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Ignition module hold down bolts. Size by Rubberman2003
Started on: 05-28-2009 11:39 AM
Replies: 17
Last post by: Dennis LaGrua on 05-31-2009 09:19 AM
Rubberman2003
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Report this Post05-28-2009 11:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rubberman2003Send a Private Message to Rubberman2003Direct Link to This Post
What size and thread pitch are the bolts the hold the ignition module inside the distributor? Are they like 6/32? Just a guess
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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post05-28-2009 01:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
I don't know what size they are but are probably metric for sure. You can always drill and tap them them to something else or put nuts on the bottom as long as the fastener fits through the module.
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post05-28-2009 01:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
I can't find the actual size listed anywhere so I measured one on a spare engine I have since I'm working out in the shop anyways. They are metric, but here's the thing, the diameter mics out at 3.35mm which seems like an odd size. (probably more like 3.5... my guess). Anyways, if it's good, then they would be M3.35 X 0.6 X 20. (...the 0.6 is the pitch, and 20 is the length in mm)
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Rubberman2003
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Report this Post05-28-2009 01:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rubberman2003Send a Private Message to Rubberman2003Direct Link to This Post
I think thats what i will do. I have a machine shop in my building at work. I will just get some small bolts with nuts.
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Rubberman2003
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Report this Post05-28-2009 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rubberman2003Send a Private Message to Rubberman2003Direct Link to This Post

Rubberman2003

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lol, you posted right as i did. I will go over and see if i can find anything that size. Thanks
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Synthesis
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Report this Post05-28-2009 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SynthesisSend a Private Message to SynthesisDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rubberman2003:

I think thats what i will do. I have a machine shop in my building at work. I will just get some small bolts with nuts.


Don't use nuts... Just drill and tap the holes.

It will be very difficult to put nuts on when replacing a module, and you run the risk of things loosening up.
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gem1138
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Report this Post05-28-2009 02:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Direct Link to This Post
Someone said here once that those screws also ground the module so they must be free of corrosion. I find that a little hard to swallow.

True or False?
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Rubberman2003
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Report this Post05-28-2009 03:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rubberman2003Send a Private Message to Rubberman2003Direct Link to This Post
I grabbed some stainless hardware from work....ill see what i can fab up tonight.
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Synthesis
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Report this Post05-28-2009 03:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SynthesisSend a Private Message to SynthesisDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by gem1138:

Someone said here once that those screws also ground the module so they must be free of corrosion. I find that a little hard to swallow.

True or False?


The module "grounds" through the metal plate on the bottom. You use Di-electric grease, or thermal transfer grease to help the module shed it's excess heat through the base plate of the distributor.

Some people have successfully "relocated" their modules by moving them to the trunk and mounting them to a HUGE aluminum heatsink. Some have mounted them behind the wheel well liner on the same HUGE heatsinks.

The module generates a LOT of heat.

I have successfully used Arctic Silver 5 for my ignition control module. 3 years and counting.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post05-28-2009 04:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaDirect Link to This Post
The module screws are availaibe from a GM parts dealer for about $1.50 a package. It is worth all the extra work to adapt different screws?.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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gem1138
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Report this Post05-28-2009 04:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Direct Link to This Post
I installed a 3 inch diameter inline fan from Pegasus Racing Supplies in the trunk blowing a small hurricane onto the ignition coil and module when the sheet metal heat shield gets above 150 degrees. I am at one year and counting in the heat of southern Louisiana.
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gem1138
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Report this Post05-28-2009 04:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Direct Link to This Post

gem1138

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Dennis,
You posted while I was typing my last one. Maybe so, but the only time I made an inquiry at Pontiac dealer the guy laughed helplessly for some time.
George
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Patrick
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Report this Post05-28-2009 07:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by gem1138:

I installed a 3 inch diameter inline fan from Pegasus Racing Supplies in the trunk blowing a small hurricane onto the ignition coil and module when the sheet metal heat shield gets above 150 degrees.



That would work well in conjunction with what I did Here.
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Rubberman2003
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Report this Post05-29-2009 07:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rubberman2003Send a Private Message to Rubberman2003Direct Link to This Post
Ok, just an update. I bolted the module down properly...it fired right up. I need to change the oil and do a few other things. The thing is very hard to get into gear while the engine is running. With it off, its np. Im going to see how far the fork is moving with the pedal depressed. Id love for it to be an adjustment issue rather than needing a clutch.
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1MohrFiero
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Report this Post05-29-2009 07:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1MohrFieroSend a Private Message to 1MohrFieroDirect Link to This Post
Some people around here recommend changing the bolts to something with a Phillips screw head. That way it is easier to change when the module goes some dark night at ten-thirty during a rain storm 40 miles from home, like they always do.

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Rubberman2003
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Report this Post05-29-2009 08:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rubberman2003Send a Private Message to Rubberman2003Direct Link to This Post
I put allen head bolts in there, have the allen in the car....its nice
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post05-30-2009 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Ya Id change them. If I remember they were a wierd size that few places had, like a 5.5mm head. I did find one and kept the socket and driver in a ziplock bag with extra module and coil in the car at all times.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post05-31-2009 09:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by gem1138:

Dennis,
You posted while I was typing my last one. Maybe so, but the only time I made an inquiry at Pontiac dealer the guy laughed helplessly for some time.
George


Tell that imbicile to order you a package of screws GM part number 1987972. Its no wonder why GM is in such bad shape when you have inept parts people behind the counter. These screws are COMMON as they were used on many GM vehicles that used the same and similar modules.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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