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Trans. fluid pan torque specs by Brent7088
Started on: 05-27-2009 01:17 AM
Replies: 6
Last post by: sparx22 on 05-27-2009 10:24 PM
Brent7088
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Report this Post05-27-2009 01:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Brent7088Send a Private Message to Brent7088Direct Link to This Post
I'm going to be replacing the gasket on my trans. fluid pan soon and was wondering if anyone knew the proper torque on the bolts. I found in the Chilton's repair manual the torque specs for the oil pan to be in ft. lbs., but thought I heard somewhere the trans. fluid pan might need to be torqued in inch lbs.

Also, what are the best gaskets to use on the oil/trans. pans? I hear FelPro types do not hold up too well, but that could be because of other issues (over/under tightening, inadequate sealer).

Thank you

[This message has been edited by Brent7088 (edited 05-27-2009).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post05-27-2009 09:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
The GM shop manual says 8 lb-ft. To convert, multiply by 12, ie 96 lb-in. Sorry, can't help with the gaskets.

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 05-27-2009).]

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TONY_C
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Report this Post05-27-2009 11:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TONY_CSend a Private Message to TONY_CDirect Link to This Post
I always use Felpro and don't have any issues. Make sure the surfaces are completely clean. I don't use any sealer or RTV and I don't use a torque wrench. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet so I don't run the risk of torquing too tight or possibly stripping out the aluminum threads. Just make sure you tighten the bolts in a pattern. I think there are 16 bolts so I usually snug one and then count five more bolts and tighten that one continuing in a circle and eventually you get to all of them. Then I go around again making sure they are all nice and snug.
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post05-27-2009 01:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderDirect Link to This Post
I agree with above. I also use high tack sealant to hold the gasket in place. I don't use a torque wrench, but just tighten it enough to hold the pan in there (yeah... it is by feel).

J.
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TONY_C
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Report this Post05-27-2009 02:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TONY_CSend a Private Message to TONY_CDirect Link to This Post
Yeah, hi tack is a good idea although sometimes the gasket holes are slightly smaller so the bolts will stay in place when installing the pan.
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Brent7088
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Report this Post05-27-2009 04:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Brent7088Send a Private Message to Brent7088Direct Link to This Post
Thank you all for the suggestions. I may be replacing the oil pan gasket too. That's a bear to take off from what I understand. According to the Chilton's manual, the only things that need removed first are the starter and the flywheel sheild (for V6). It all sounds easy and straightforward but I know once I dig in, it'll be a lot different than just reading a book.

Thanks again!
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sparx22
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Report this Post05-27-2009 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sparx22Send a Private Message to sparx22Direct Link to This Post
Also it was recommended to me to drive the car after completed to get it warm and check the torque again, mine required a little more tightening.
sparx22
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