For starters, if you do not have a "Haynes" or "Chilton" repair manual; start there. The other option is use the "Search" function. There is information there that may prove to be helpful.
IP: Logged
09:35 PM
IFLYR22 Member
Posts: 1775 From: Tucson, AZ. Registered: May 2007
Spoon is right, cut the old belt if you are going to replace it. You should put a new belt on when you replace the Alt. The Chilton / Haynes books are your friends... Basically, disconnect the battery, then jack up the car. disconnect the Alt. wires. Cut the v-belt, or loosen the bolts to the Alt., and remove the belt. Remove the bolts, then the Alt. It's a pain to get it out. Some have gotten it out with much success by fishing it out through the bottom. some have had success through the top. When I helped a friend of mine with his, it was easier through the bottom. I never had a stock V6, and only did this once. (we did find it was also easier to loosen the bracket bolts that hold the Alt. to the engine to help wiggle the Alt. out.) Assembly is the reverse of this.
-dave
IP: Logged
10:06 PM
Nohbdy Member
Posts: 587 From: Grand Rapids MI Registered: Dec 2008
maybe theres a better way, but we got good at this before me and my dad were done replacing the stupid thing. 1) remove engine blocks 2) remove rad tubing above engine blocks 3) remove assorted piping thats in the way 4) remove the bolt holding the alternator bracket in place 5) remove passengers side right tire (jack it up first obviously...) 6) chak the tires, dont let it roll off and crush u, uv only just started the addiction lol 7) pull alternator out the bottom 8) replace alternator 9) starting at 7, go in reverse.
Be very careful removing the top alternator bolt. They like to seize in the bracket and break off when removing them. If it is really tight heat the bracket with a propane tourch and cool it a couple times, spray with WD, Tap on the end to bolt. The steel bolt really like to stick to the AL brackets. If it's loose your very lucky. If your interested it's also good to swap to the newer CS Alternator used on the 88's. Just need to splice the connecter in. You can read the post in the Ogre's cave on how to do it.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 05-14-2009).]
IP: Logged
10:14 PM
TopNotch Member
Posts: 3537 From: Lawrenceville, GA USA Registered: Feb 2009
You didn't say auto or manual trans. It's harder for an auto (because the transmission is bigger. You may have to remove the dogbone and rear cradle bolts and tilt the cradle down to make more room, and get it out the bottom.
IP: Logged
10:16 PM
olejoedad Member
Posts: 19785 From: Clarendon Twp., MI Registered: May 2004
Remove the right hand toe link from the upright Remove alternator bracket with alternator attached remove through opening created in the wheel well by removing toe link
IP: Logged
10:39 PM
May 15th, 2009
fierosound Member
Posts: 15237 From: Calgary, Canada Registered: Nov 1999
If it's a manual, the alternator can come out the bottom between the axle and cradle. If it's an automatic, you have to pull it through the wheel well.
If it is an automatic here's a short step by step when I did mine last month:
Ok, I put her up on jack stands Sunday and replaced the alternator. It really was not fun at all, took about 3 hours but I probably could cut the time in half next time now that I know how to do it. Remove passenger tire, zip off tie rod nut (the cotter pin was missing,nice) and pop tie rod end off, swing it out of the way. Rubber cover piece was missing too. Then remove alt adjustment bolt from the bracket, pull the belt off the pulley. Remove bolt holding the alt to the bracket. Lower the alternator and find out the bracket is still in the way by about 1 inch. Remove the lower bracket bolt, remove one of the upper bracket bolts and loosen the other upper bracket bolt. Swing the bracket forward and out of the way. Now the alternator can be snaked out. All the connections looked good, no corrosion. However it does look like when it had been installed by a previous owner it was dropped before installation. The air fin disc behind the pulley was slightly bent and also the bearings in it were going bad. I then took it to Advance Auto and let them test it. It was charging at a steady 15 amps. But, bearings shot, disc warped, it's not going back in. Purchased a rebuilt alt from PepBoys. Lifetime warranty, they may regret that later. Then I had to take it back home with my old alt and swap the pulleys. (and the spacer from the old one). Put the alternator back on the car in the reverse order. (And add a cotter pin to the tie rod nut).