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  How do you change Alternator and Belt on a V6 Fiero?

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How do you change Alternator and Belt on a V6 Fiero? by naturalhit
Started on: 05-14-2009 09:19 PM
Replies: 9
Last post by: Larryh86GT on 05-15-2009 10:51 AM
naturalhit
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Report this Post05-14-2009 09:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for naturalhitClick Here to visit naturalhit's HomePageSend a Private Message to naturalhitDirect Link to This Post
I'm still new at this Fiero thing. I'm stuck trying to figure out how to change Alt and belt on this car.

I did try the search thing but didn't get the answer I want. I want to see if you guys could give me some great advice.


Thanks

[This message has been edited by naturalhit (edited 05-14-2009).]

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Spoon
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Report this Post05-14-2009 09:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonDirect Link to This Post
Well for starters you can take a knife and cut the old one off.

maybe someone else will chime in for the wrap up.

Spoon
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Cajun
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Report this Post05-14-2009 09:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunDirect Link to This Post
naturalhit,

For starters, if you do not have a "Haynes" or "Chilton" repair manual; start there. The other option is use the "Search" function. There is information there that may prove to be helpful.
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IFLYR22
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Report this Post05-14-2009 10:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IFLYR22Send a Private Message to IFLYR22Direct Link to This Post
Spoon is right, cut the old belt if you are going to replace it. You should put a new belt on when you replace the Alt.
The Chilton / Haynes books are your friends...
Basically, disconnect the battery, then jack up the car.
disconnect the Alt. wires. Cut the v-belt, or loosen the bolts to the Alt., and remove the belt.
Remove the bolts, then the Alt. It's a pain to get it out. Some have gotten it out with much success by fishing it out through the bottom. some have had success through the top.
When I helped a friend of mine with his, it was easier through the bottom. I never had a stock V6, and only did this once. (we did find it was also easier to loosen the bracket bolts that hold the Alt. to the engine to help wiggle the Alt. out.)
Assembly is the reverse of this.

-dave
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Nohbdy
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Report this Post05-14-2009 10:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NohbdySend a Private Message to NohbdyDirect Link to This Post
maybe theres a better way, but we got good at this before me and my dad were done replacing the stupid thing.
1) remove engine blocks
2) remove rad tubing above engine blocks
3) remove assorted piping thats in the way
4) remove the bolt holding the alternator bracket in place
5) remove passengers side right tire (jack it up first obviously...)
6) chak the tires, dont let it roll off and crush u, uv only just started the addiction lol
7) pull alternator out the bottom
8) replace alternator
9) starting at 7, go in reverse.
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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post05-14-2009 10:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
Be very careful removing the top alternator bolt. They like to seize in the bracket and break off when removing them.
If it is really tight heat the bracket with a propane tourch and cool it a couple times, spray with WD, Tap on the end to bolt.
The steel bolt really like to stick to the AL brackets. If it's loose your very lucky.
If your interested it's also good to swap to the newer CS Alternator used on the 88's. Just need to splice the connecter in. You can read the post in the Ogre's cave on how to do it.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 05-14-2009).]

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TopNotch
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Report this Post05-14-2009 10:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchDirect Link to This Post
You didn't say auto or manual trans. It's harder for an auto (because the transmission is bigger. You may have to remove the dogbone and rear cradle bolts and tilt the cradle down to make more room, and get it out the bottom.
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olejoedad
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Report this Post05-14-2009 10:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadDirect Link to This Post
It's actually very easy -

Remove the right hand toe link from the upright
Remove alternator bracket with alternator attached
remove through opening created in the wheel well by removing toe link
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fierosound
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Report this Post05-15-2009 03:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TopNotch:

You didn't say auto or manual trans.



What transmission?

If it's a manual, the alternator can come out the bottom between the axle and cradle. If it's an automatic, you have to pull it through the wheel well.

Download the 86 Service Manual. www.fieronews.net

------------------

World of Wheels Winners
My 3.4L S/C 87 GT
& My SD4 Indy

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-15-2009).]

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Larryh86GT
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Report this Post05-15-2009 10:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Larryh86GTSend a Private Message to Larryh86GTDirect Link to This Post
If it is an automatic here's a short step by step when I did mine last month:

Ok, I put her up on jack stands Sunday and replaced the alternator. It really was not fun at all, took about 3 hours but I probably could cut the time in half next time now that I know how to do it. Remove passenger tire, zip off tie rod nut (the cotter pin was missing,nice) and pop tie rod end off, swing it out of the way. Rubber cover piece was missing too. Then remove alt adjustment bolt from the bracket, pull the belt off the pulley. Remove bolt holding the alt to the bracket. Lower the alternator and find out the bracket is still in the way by about 1 inch. Remove the lower bracket bolt, remove one of the upper bracket bolts and loosen the other upper bracket bolt. Swing the bracket forward and out of the way. Now the alternator can be snaked out. All the connections looked good, no corrosion. However it does look like when it had been installed by a previous owner it was dropped before installation. The air fin disc behind the pulley was slightly bent and also the bearings in it were going bad.
I then took it to Advance Auto and let them test it. It was charging at a steady 15 amps. But, bearings shot, disc warped, it's not going back in. Purchased a rebuilt alt from PepBoys. Lifetime warranty, they may regret that later. Then I had to take it back home with my old alt and swap the pulleys. (and the spacer from the old one). Put the alternator back on the car in the reverse order. (And add a cotter pin to the tie rod nut).

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