So I've decided I really need to get my passenger side tie rod end replaced, soon. When parking I'm noticing that side doesn't always protrude the same as my driver side if I don't pull straight into my drive way (Hell even when I do it's still not always straight).

I had an alignment done, but they didn't mention anything about my tie rod ends being bad, but I've been having more and more problems keeping the car straight at freeway speeds due to ruts and, my guess, the tie rod end. I felt it up (after buying it a couple drinks of course) and noticed that side's bushing/grease cap thing (I'm highly technical arn't I?) is pretty much flat, while the driver's side still feels newish.

I've tried the search to find a simple "how to" as I haven't bought a book yet, plus looking for any tricks people have found to make the job easier. Can I get away with doing just one side? should I fess up and do both? will I need any fancy tools other than a pickle fork to remove my old bad one, and my tool set?

I know this may not fix all my handling problems, but I feel it's a good place to start, plus I have some good practice at it after doing it so many times on my subaru after blowing out my bearings a couple times... After I finish this project where should I start looking at for my crappy handling?

Thanks!

(86 GT V6 stock btw)

Tie rod ends are not bad to do.
The fork will detach them without issue.
What I do is count the rotations when removing the existing part, then install the new tie rod end with the same number of rotations. Get good parts and save yourself grief. I got moog brand for my car.

Don't let this go and fail when you are out on the road, not healthy.
You can check your upper and lowers by jacking up the car and grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rocking the wheel. If it moves you have ball joints that are worn.

The uppers are simple to change, the lowers are not all that easy to press in but can be done if you can rent some decent tools from Auto Zone for example.
sparx

So far I've only looked at Autozone to start pricing, and of course they only sell Duralast and one that's not named on their site, just called "Rare parts."

What's the big difference between say the Duralasts and moogs? where do you even get moogs at ?

Quality.
Rodney Dickman has good parts, I have his uppers and lowers on my car.
sprarx22

so how does it go? 12 and 6 o'clock shake is bad ball joints and then 3 and 9 o'clock shake is bad tie rods isn't it? I think I remember reading that, but could be wrong. Moog is a good brand. I've heard that name floating around quite a bit, but Rodney does sell some HIGH quality parts that are for our cars. My 2 cents.
Wes

it is more likely the problem is coming from the rear end
a bad rear strut will make the car so wishy-washy on the freeway - its scary
the grease cap could mean anything - the previous owner lost/damaged the original during a brake job - or - the ugly - the grease cap popped off sometime, and later, when the grease was spun out, and the remains contaminated, the previous owner slapped some fresh grease in, and re-capped it.
if you tie rods were bad - the alignment shop would have mentioned it - they want to repair it for you - and make an extra $150
next - while on alignment - the rear end (again)
the Fiero rear is ssooo fussy. and aligment shops often miss the fact that we have rear camber & toe which needs to be set. if the rear toe is bad - you will be chasing you rear end back n forth on the freeway - and really scary in the rain/snow

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: it is more likely the problem is coming from the rear end a bad rear strut will make the car so wishy-washy on the freeway - its scary the grease cap could mean anything - the previous owner lost/damaged the original during a brake job - or - the ugly - the grease cap popped off sometime, and later, when the grease was spun out, and the remains contaminated, the previous owner slapped some fresh grease in, and re-capped it. if you tie rods were bad - the alignment shop would have mentioned it - they want to repair it for you - and make an extra $150 next - while on alignment - the rear end (again) the Fiero rear is ssooo fussy. and aligment shops often miss the fact that we have rear camber & toe which needs to be set. if the rear toe is bad - you will be chasing you rear end back n forth on the freeway - and really scary in the rain/snow

I've been thinking struts also (if the tie rods didn't fix the problem). Is there an easy test to do? jump up and down in the trunk and listen for creaking cracking popping? or just get new ones and go for a test drive?

Also, I do notice I get a lot of bounce going over bumps (much akin to a soft suspension like maybe a caddy...) and would like to go to a firmer more sporty suspension, any recommendations?

If its rear tie rods then get the kit from the fiero store and do all 4 at once for the front get moog from either checker/O'rileys or advanced auto also don't forget to check bearings. When i did my front i got all the parts for around $150, the rear was about $250-300 and i just rebuilt it all. wish I had know i had a bad inner tie rod on the front though woulda done a rack too. But hey that is what the corevette Rack is gettin ready to go in for

Are the inner tie rod ends the same in the front and rear?

------------------
Jay Brintnell
Member of:
Southern Ontario Fiero Association and the Ontario Pontiac Club

Learning is not compulsory.Neither is survival. - W. Edwards Deming

not even close the fronts are part of the rack and the rear are specific to fieros

quote Originally posted by DougC: So far I've only looked at Autozone to start pricing, and of course they only sell Duralast and one that's not named on their site, just called "Rare parts." What's the big difference between say the Duralasts and moogs? where do you even get moogs at ?

Moog is a division of Federal Mogul, a global giant with many subsidiaries in the aftermarket automotive and machine industry. I'm not shure where exactly Moog parts are manufactured, but I do know this.. most all NASCAR teams use Moog suspension parts to some extent. I personally have used Moog ball joints and tie rod ends in the past and have been very pleased with them. All of the large auto parts store "chains" (Autozone, Napa, OReilly) should be able to order the Moog brand, or go online, search and order that way. As far as Duralast is concerned, I have no clue! I know that Duralast is Autozone's "house brand", and if one does a "price check" between Duralast and Moog etc.. the results are sometimes shocking! Less by almost HALF in most cases. It kinda makes you wonder if Duralast is not some cheap "chinese knock-off". But I'm not trashing on Duralast. Hell, I just bought a Duralast outer tie rod end for my 84. (seems I have the same tie rod problem as you) And though my car is not a daily driver, and I don't plan on making a continued left turn at 200 mph, I can't imagine why the Duralast rod end will not work just fine . But then again, I'ts all in what you plan on doing with your own car
Just my $0.02 Good Luck!
Devin.

quote Originally posted by DougC: I've been thinking struts also (if the tie rods didn't fix the problem). Is there an easy test to do? jump up and down in the trunk and listen for creaking cracking popping? or just get new ones and go for a test drive? Also, I do notice I get a lot of bounce going over bumps (much akin to a soft suspension like maybe a caddy...) and would like to go to a firmer more sporty suspension, any recommendations?

bad struts usually dont creak or pop, but - I suppose if bad enough - they may
but - the jumping on the back end is actually correct. what you are looking for is how much resistance is being put forth by the strut, on both the loading and unloading.
the "normal" life of a strut is 60k miles. got more than that? how long have you had the car?
and, the "bounce" you mention is a sign of weak struts - the struts job is to dampen the bounce
and - next - the original struts - from the 80's - were a lousy design. a new set of Monroe Sensa-Tracs will make most Fieros pretty happy

for a firmer suspension - do you want to lower or no? Fiero's are mighty low to start with.
if not: KYB Struts, rear Poly a-arm bushings, alum cradle bushings, maybe rear sway bar if you want a little more stiffness
lower: same as above - add Eibach/Intrax lowering springs

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: bad struts usually dont creak or pop, but - I suppose if bad enough - they may but - the jumping on the back end is actually correct. what you are looking for is how much resistance is being put forth by the strut, on both the loading and unloading. the "normal" life of a strut is 60k miles. got more than that? how long have you had the car? and, the "bounce" you mention is a sign of weak struts - the struts job is to dampen the bounce and - next - the original struts - from the 80's - were a lousy design. a new set of Monroe Sensa-Tracs will make most Fieros pretty happy for a firmer suspension - do you want to lower or no? Fiero's are mighty low to start with. if not: KYB Struts, rear Poly a-arm bushings, alum cradle bushings, maybe rear sway bar if you want a little more stiffness lower: same as above - add Eibach/Intrax lowering springs

I've personally only had the car since Valentine's Day ( a lovely gift to my self ) so I'm not totally sure how long the current struts have been in it. Guess I'll look into doing this soon too!