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Cutting down Front Bumpstop for front lowering springs? anyone do this or have pics? by n_tensetuning
Started on: 04-23-2009 09:35 AM
Replies: 5
Last post by: n_tensetuning on 04-27-2009 11:41 PM
n_tensetuning
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Report this Post04-23-2009 09:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningDirect Link to This Post
I just ordered some 1.5" front drop springs for my 86 from West Coast Fiero.

They told me that I need to cut down the front bumpstops & remove 3/4" off of there by following this procedure:

http://www.westcoastfiero.c...front_bump_stop.html

Anyone do this b4 and have pics?

Aren't the front bumpstops just spot welded? I don't understand why a sawzall needs to be used to remove them.

Look forward to your input.

Dave M.
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tjm4fun
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Report this Post04-23-2009 11:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tjm4funSend a Private Message to tjm4funDirect Link to This Post
the bumpstops sit on a sort of tube. you need to cut down that tube by 3/4" and weld it back together to do it properly. it is easier to reach in with a sawzall and cut the tube than to try and remove the spot welds and the re-attach. pull one of your front wheels and it will be clear what they mean.
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n_tensetuning
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Report this Post04-27-2009 10:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningDirect Link to This Post
well.

I got my 1.5" lowering springs from West Coast Fiero and took my stock ones apart.

I went to the cone piece/sleeve that holds the bump stop and measured 3/4" from the edge and used a sawzall to cut it off all around without going through the entire piece just in case I hit the bump stop.

Took off the bump piece I cut off and sanded/straightened out the edge/od all around. Then did the same to the cone straightening out my non-straight cut.

Then I measured 3/4" from the edge of the cone piece/sleeve up and cut that off.

Took the bump stop piece and seam welded it all around.

Hope I did it right. I grinded down my 1st seam weld with 50 grit rolocs, then I went over it again with another seam weld and smoothed down the edges again.

Lastly, I sanded 1" on top and 1" on bottom of my seam weld and cleaned everything up and mixed some JB-Weld and dabbed it all around the seam weld. This should keep out any moisture out.

I'm curious if others cut the 3/4" off from the top of the cone vs. taking 3/4" from measuring from the bottom up (slightly above the bump stop) and then taking the 3/4" off the cone like I did.

[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 04-27-2009).]

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Chicken McNizzle
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Report this Post04-27-2009 10:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Chicken McNizzleClick Here to visit Chicken McNizzle's HomePageSend a Private Message to Chicken McNizzleDirect Link to This Post
You did it right, it doesnt matter where the 3/4" comes from, just as long as the mounting point for the rubber bumpstop goes back on the car.

And most of all, I want to thank you for following the proceedure, must just remove the rubber bumpstop and call it a day - this is how lowering a Fiero gets a bad wrap.
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Jncomutt
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Report this Post04-27-2009 11:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttDirect Link to This Post
pics?
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n_tensetuning
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Report this Post04-27-2009 11:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningDirect Link to This Post
My wife has the camera.... although I have a phone camera. I'll see if I can snap some pics tomorrow.

I'm letting the JB weld cure. I've used this stuff before over welds. It's awesome and keeps moisture out.


Thank God for this forum : D

Dave M.
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