how can i pull fuel at idle from 1200 rpm and lower in tunerpro? i have the 1227730 ecm running with 3500 LX9. it is running very rich at idle. pushing out black smoke. killing me in my garage (yes the door is open) its chocking me.
How about a run down as to exactly where you are with everything. Have you been able to successfully datalink with the ecm and if so there should be a BPC vs. EGR somewhere. You'll need to disable it if you have no EGR and then change the first value, but to be on the safe side set all of the values to the same number.
If the rich condition is not responding to changes to the BPC you have a problem somewhere else, possibly in the wiring. As I've mentioned to you already, I used the Beretta code $A1 to get my engine started and it worked very well.
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12:28 AM
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
How about a run down as to exactly where you are with everything. Have you been able to successfully datalink with the ecm and if so there should be a BPC vs. EGR somewhere. You'll need to disable it if you have no EGR and then change the first value, but to be on the safe side set all of the values to the same number.
If the rich condition is not responding to changes to the BPC you have a problem somewhere else, possibly in the wiring. As I've mentioned to you already, I used the Beretta code $A1 to get my engine started and it worked very well.
for that DIS ICM problem, jon said i have fouled plugs from running so rich. so im going to change them tomarrow. yes i have been able to to datalink. the only table/function i found was the Base Pulse Constant Vs. Desired % EGR. so im hoping that is the right one to start with. and for disabling the EGR, i hope i am understanding this right, i go to flags/switches and go to the EGR Diagnostic (Error 32) and the Digital EVRV/EGR (X=Digital) and leave those alone since the are not set. correct?
i am also using the $A1 code as well. i do have the 3800SC II injectors. and i believe those are the 36# injectors. and the flowrate that i see in my bin file is t 24.02 lb/hr.
BPC vs. desired EGR is the correct table and you'll probably need to lower the constant a pretty good bit because the stock injectors for that code were somewhere around 16 lb/hr. Just make sure the EGR is disabled and as previously stated make sure all of your values in that constant are set to the same number so that fuel flow is the same throughout the table in the event you mis disabling the EGR.
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07:08 AM
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
Making sure both the EGR flags are not check marked on the "set" selection for each is disabling it right? Im guessing that is so because im not getting a check eng light.
Sorry, but im very very new to tuning as you've noticed, but what constants am I looking to have the same set value?
Woo hoo, im getting a AEM wideband from a friend for 30 bux. He doesn't need it since he's getting out of the RX7 world. Its never been hooked up too. Woot.
Originally posted by americasfuture2k: what paremiters for spark and fuel do I need to change toget the idle to stay stable?
First get your gauges setup. Since you are new at this, an air/fuel ratio meter, or wideband O2 is mandatory. One of those two items alone when working properly will tell whether you need to add fuel, or subtract fuel.
Tell us what's going on, is it surging? is it blowing puffs of black smoke? are the exhaust manifolds glowing? is it idling too low or too high?
Start with the base pulse constant first, you should be able to achieve a decent idle just by adjusting that provided everything is working properly, then you start from their. Setup the gauges on Tpro to show your timing retard, rpm, Kpa, TPS, BLM and INT readings for a start.
Watch the INT (integrator value) next to the BLM value, when the INT value moves lower than the BLM value, that area is rich, when it is higher than the BLM value, it is lean, you want those two values as close to 128 as you can get them. Get on a nice open road, put the tranny in 5th at about 40 mph and use the brakes to try and hold about 2000 rpm as you try to reach 100 Kpa before the rpm moves to far away from that point. The object is to try and get a datalog of each rpm step as it reaches each indicated Kpa so that you can look at the BLM and INT at those points to see what the fueling is like. You have to do this at a gradual rate so that you get some good data and give the ECM enough time to analyze those points.
That's one approach, I believe the spark table is an area to spend a lot of time before you get heavy into fuel changes because the 3500 cylinder heads are much more efficient than the 3.1 heads and I found the TGP code needed to be advanced a pretty good bit above the stock setting. If you decide to address part of the table say 50 Kpa and below I would chang all of the values at the same time by small increments, 1 degree to work on the idle. Watch for timing retard on the screen.
My approach will probably involve increasing the entire 100 Kpa row in small increments until I detect knock counts or a hint of timing retard and then start addressing the values individually in that same vertical row until I've established threshold and then back off by 2 degrees and adjust values below that point using it as a reference.
I don't suggest you do that. In your case 1 degree increments over the entire table up to about 3 deg above stock should get you in a good range, I would be very careful with further increases beyond that if you don't encounter any timing retard at maybe .5 deg increments. Since my engine is boosted I have to take a more conservative approach but as can be seen in my 3900 thread running very lean according to fuel correction at 7 psi I noted only ~1.5 deg of timing retard suggesting there is plenty more room for timing increase once the fuel ratio is corrected at that point.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 04-23-2009).]
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03:09 PM
PFF
System Bot
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
if by gauges, you mean view everything that can be viewed via tunerpro through the ALDL, then yes i have gotten that far. and i have a autometer narrow band AFR hooked up. just kinda chillen there though.
it is having trouble dtarting right up. i need to hold the gas pedal down and feather it when cranking and when it fires, hold the pedal down to keep the idle steady, slowly releasing to keep it staying idle. and it does blow black smoke out when starting it like this (only way to get it to fire up)
for the base pulse constant, that is going to be one of the VS. tables right? i think i may have a different .XDF file than what you used. could be why some things you mention are not named the same as what i am using. i am using the $A1 BIN though. when i get home to my laptop, ill post up what .XDF i am using
thanks for your help so far. i will post more as i get along with it
if by gauges, you mean view everything that can be viewed via tunerpro through the ALDL, then yes i have gotten that far. and i have a autometer narrow band AFR hooked up. just kinda chillen there though.
it is having trouble dtarting right up. i need to hold the gas pedal down and feather it when cranking and when it fires, hold the pedal down to keep the idle steady, slowly releasing to keep it staying idle. and it does blow black smoke out when starting it like this (only way to get it to fire up)
for the base pulse constant, that is going to be one of the VS. tables right? i think i may have a different .XDF file than what you used. could be why some things you mention are not named the same as what i am using. i am using the $A1 BIN though. when i get home to my laptop, ill post up what .XDF i am using
thanks for your help so far. i will post more as i get along with it
Gauge as in stand alone gauge, the narrow band meter works fine. You are starting in clear flood mode so the base constant probably needs to be lower, then you can go to the cold start up fuel table for fine tuning based on temperature where you can lower the start up fuel a little bit if necessary. I thought I sent you a couple of links some time ago regarding some basic tuning approach measure.
You should also very likely add a couple of degrees advance to the idle end of the spark table and check for the idle rpm setting and maybe bump it up a little until you iron out idle fueling a little better to keep it from stalling.
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04:23 PM
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
i didnt see any links, that i recall, in the PM's. ill look again. but ive been scrounging around http://www.diy-efi.org/ when i have free time at work. not getting far enough yet to make sense of anything.
by base constant, i assume you are talking about the base we have been talking about, the base pulse constant vs. % desired egr.
i want to start making changes to start learning this, but i want to make sure i am adjusting the correct items before i go at it.
for the cold start fuel table, im guessing that will be this one, the desired idle speed vs. coolant temp (in p/n)
im too tired to keep my eyes open to go any farther. i shall continue this tomarrow if i get time to.
