Stock fiero brake hoses up front and the stock corvette brake hoses in the rear. I hadto shave off one of the notches where the hose clips to the bracket on the frame. Looks like it should once on.

Steve, What kind of spring you have on your car? I have to replace mine now because when I hit the brakes the front end drops farther than before. Wheels are hitting inner skirt.

Bob

Ok found out something....when I put the front brake rotors on top of the hubs, I moved the wheels outward 7-8 mm. Since the fender is sloped it hit's now when i hit the brakes. I thought the height had dropped but, turns out the tires are closer to the fenders now. So I have to either replace the springs or install a spacer to bring the front end up. Any thoughts?

quote Originally posted by procarnut: Ok found out something....when I put the front brake rotors on top of the hubs, I moved the wheels outward 7-8 mm. Since the fender is sloped it hit's now when i hit the brakes. I thought the height had dropped but, turns out the tires are closer to the fenders now. So I have to either replace the springs or install a spacer to bring the front end up. Any thoughts?

What wheels are you running?

On some wheels, there is room to shave the mounting face down a few mm to suck the wheel back in... Best bet is to bring the wheels to a wheel re-finishing or modifying place and see that they can do with them.

Replacing the springs, or doing a spacer is kind of a band-aid solution... Under harder braking the car will still dive in the front and they will still rub... It will just take harder braking for that to happen...

The only real solution is to counteract the problem directly either by shaving the rim mounting surface (if possible) or going to a slightly higher offset wheel to compensate for the added thickness of the rotor.

I've always wondered why people don't take some material off the hub when they have it machined to take the rotor off. Why wouldn't you just turn some material off the face to negate or minimize the extra width with the new rotors? Is the material too thin to take any more off? Thats what I plan on doing.

-Tim

Well it's actually the tire that hits the fender...225/40 r 18's. I really dont have alot of travel since the springs are shorter and stiffer. and the bump stop is already cut. If I had a really hard brakeing it would hit the bump stop anyway. If I went with a 8 in. wide wheel it would role the sidewall corner slightly but may be enough to clear. Wheels are too expensive though.

Cutting the hub on the face would really make me nervous since it's already thin. My car already sits way too low in the first place so i need springs anyway.

Here are some photos for the rear brakes on and overall.

Very nice! 17"s wheels in the front and 18"s in the back?

That looks great!
I would just raise up the front a little to get your clearance back. You can always stick a spacer under the springs so you dont have to swap out the springs if they have the spring rate you want..

18"s front and back on 225/40r18.

Thanks\

quote Originally posted by TD37: I've always wondered why people don't take some material off the hub when they have it machined to take the rotor off. Why wouldn't you just turn some material off the face to negate or minimize the extra width with the new rotors? Is the material too thin to take any more off? Thats what I plan on doing. -Tim

Do not take too much off the hub. I had an issue when I bought a Corvette brake package. They cut too much material off, and cracks developed around the wheel studs.

I looking into making a set of centric rings for a friend and I was wondering Who has had problems with thier rings? How thick do they need to be?

procar, didn't you make some for that brake swap you just did? For the 88, I had mine at .313"F and .265"R for thickness.

------------------
Christian
87 Pontiac Fiero GT Burgandy/Silver 5.7L ZZ4 5spd, 88 suspension, C6 polished wheels, C5 Z06 brakes, Konis, poly'd, Spec Stg 3
301rwhp/345rwtq
Stovebolt Powered!!!!!
06 Cobalt SS/SC w/ LSD (the slow DD)

Yes I did make a set for mine. it seems that sometimes the same thickness wont work for 88-96 rotors. A friend of mine has a set he baught and they are too thin. The back side is too beveled to center on the same thickness as mine. I'me taking a set of old rotors and cutting the center out but I wanted to see if the thickness would work before I destroy the set.

Thanks for the info.

Bob

[This message has been edited by procarnut (edited 01-25-2008).]

Would you be able to grab a measurement for me next time you have the front wheels off?

I am wondering what the distance is from the axle center line to the top of the caliper... Just so I can get a rough idea if these will fit behind my wheels

I know you can fit 17's and larger with these brakes. Corvettes are running 17's up front. But yes I can get a measurement for you just in case. probably this week.

Bob

Can you make the parts for the stock C5 calibers and an '88 Fiero? I found this info on some site.... The Z06 calipers are powder coated red but are otherwise equivalent to the standard C5 version. I think the only difference besides the color is the holds for the bolts? I prefer this stealthier look.


If I'm not mistaken you can use the 96 up Camaro SS calipers. Same as the C5 but cast different and no corvette logo.
This is the front I'm assuming the rear is the same as the C5 too. The fronts go for $50 on eBay for the set.

I'll have to see what I can do.

Please refer to my other post "vibration even after Wheel balanced"

another issue if you cut hubs and drill rotors plus a fix.

Bob

I just got my 13" rotors today and they look gigantic! I'm very worried about wheel clearance though. All I've got right now are the C5 caliper brackets. My calipers are still in transit but I stuck the rotor inside one of my 17" front wheels with the caliper bracket on and I think it will be close. Maybe its just how my wheels were made, but I don't have too much clearance for a caliper. Hopefully I'll get my calipers soon and be able to double check and make sure they will fit. If not, I guess I'll have to get a set of 12" C5 rotors and take a bath on this pair of 13's. I just checked C5 Z06 specs and they come with 18" wheels all the way around, that worries me even more...

-Tim

quote Originally posted by FierociousGT: Can you make the parts for the stock C5 calibers and an '88 Fiero? I found this info on some site.... The Z06 calipers are powder coated red but are otherwise equivalent to the standard C5 version. I think the only difference besides the color is the holds for the bolts? I prefer this stealthier look. If I'm not mistaken you can use the 96 up Camaro SS calipers. Same as the C5 but cast different and no corvette logo.

The F-body, C5, C5 Z-06 and C6 non-Z-06 calipers themselves are all interchangable. The difference comes in the pad abutment brackets where they mount to the spindle.

The F-body calipers are gravity cast, whereas the C5 and C6 are pressure cast, making them stiffer and less prone to spreading. The C6 are even stiffer than the C5's. If you want the stiffer calipers without the Corvette logo, this company sells a generic PBR caliper that is identical to the Vette pieces, but without logos: http://www.kore3.com/index.php

well that is a fantastic little drawing there, thanks a lot. I cut it out and glued it to some cardboard and I've got close to 1/4" clearance with the wheel. It gets a little tighter by some of the wheel weights and hits on one stack of weights that is huge. I guess I'll take the wheel in and get it re-balanced and see what they can do about the weights so the calipers will clear. But, 98% says that they will fit without too much trouble. And they are going to look HUGE!!!

-Tim

quote Originally posted by procarnut: ... Here is after for the front... ..

OMG!! Now you have me huge pen@#s envy!!!! I will put some solid rims as I don't want to ever see mines again.

------------------

Red: TPI V8 + 6-Speed Yellow: Nitrous 3.4 + 4 speed Auto
304rwHP/366rwTQ

Would have loved to see your fieros while I was in Dade County. I was there visiting another Community College about there training program. Maybe next trip?

Bob

quote Originally posted by fieroX: has anyone thought of making custom spindles, that will fit corvette brakes without needing brackets and spacers? Just a bolt in spindle that bolts the brakes straight on? Lets work on that. and how about with a 2" drop already built in.

This is an excellent idea. I would jump on a pair of front 1.5" or 2" drop spindles with C5/C6 caliper mounts for 13" rotors quicker than I would Angelina Jolie.

Sorry didn't get back sooner. Lost track of thread. I'm using the Corvette rear hoses and the fieros front hoses.

Just an update. Brakes worked great but under hard brakeing the fronts would lock up too early. So called WCF and they said remove the proportioning valve from the stock Combi valve (plunger and weld cap plug hole). Worked better but still had too much pressure up front. So I purchased a Proportioning valve (wilwood) and installed it on the front. Works Great! Now I can launch through the windshield if I wanted too.

someone needs to make a parts list. i am just interested in doing the fronts if i could. i am using the lebaron setup right now but these are amazing. would there be an issue on using the corvette fronts and lebaron rears? please make a parts list and the cost of everything. thanks!

Just to do the front brakes...

Centric rings (bubba Joe's specs)
Rotors (corvette c-5)
Calipers (corvette c-5)
Brackets and stock bolts (corvette c-5)
pads
hardware
"o" rings copper (for banjo end of hose)

7/8th thick Aluminum plate

Machine rotor off hub (WCF has them or you could have it done but worth buying from WCF)
machine centric rings (suggest slightly larger on the back side and beveled inside to bottom on rotor)

The trick is machining washers to center the bracket to the rotor once its' torqued down.

AS for the Proportioning valve.

Wilwood proportioning valve
Adaptor (1/8th to ?)
1/4 inch steel tubing
Original flare nuts from Master Cylinder and Proportioning valve
flare nuts to fit ? on the adaptor
Flaring kit


I'll try to get the specifics for you tomarrow.

Cost really depends on where you go. If you check your local Corvette Performance shops they might let you have a conplete set for $150.00 plus. Some have quated me $300 to $350.00 but it's what ever you can get.

Ok, got the parts list for the Proportioning Valve install.

2 318-4 1/4" Tube nut .40ea .80
2 319-4 1/4" Tube Sleeve .31ea .62
2 2404-4-2 1/4" x 1/8" STR. MTUBE x MPIPE .63ea 1.26

1 AGS BL412 1/4" brake line 2.29ea 2.29

1 260-8419 Wilwood Adjustable brake proportioning valve 41.99ea 41.99

Total 46.96

You will have to have a tube flare kit and cut the flare nuts off of the original tube to reuse on the lines.

step 1. Cut the 1/4" tube about 2" long from one end.
step 2. Cut off old Flare nuts from existing brake line.
step 3. Slide old flare nut for master cylender on to short tube piece. There is a difference between the MC and Combi flare nuts!
Step 4. Slide new flare nut and tube sleeve on and Flare the end.
step 5. Screw in adaptor to Proportioning valve on the inlet side.
step 6. install tube betwwen MC and Proportioning valve and bend pipe if needed after nuts are tighten.
step 7. Take rest of the 1/4" tube and repeat.
step 8. Blead brakes.

That's it.. The hardest part is finding the parts to make this work. Took me 3/4 of the day figuring out how to make it work because the differnce in thread diam. and pitch.

Good Luck.

thanks for the reply! i might be contacting you again if i need to when i think about doing this. does anyone sell the rings? does the caliper bolt up to the stock holes or is there a bracket that is needed? sorry for asking so many questions.

You will need to make a bracket. See picture for bracket. No problem with the questions, it's waht this is all about. The centric rings are available through BubbaJoe and DS1. You can get the specs on line here and have a machine shop make them. I have a person waiting for me to make a set but i'm having problems finding round stock with min. turn time.

Bob

Do you have a dimensioned drawing of the caliper brackets?

about the rubbing issue, are you having any problems with the tires rubbing the inner fender when turning (one of the things I'm worried about when it comes to brake upgrades)? In the pictures I only see rubbing marks which seem to have occured as the front suspension was compressed? What's the offset of the wheels you are running?

Nice setup btw. Any tips on where I could get the C5 (and C4) calipers and brackets (not the conversion brackets, the Corvette brackets) and have them shipped internationally?

great post,, i recently picked up a beautiful set of c5 calipers for 50bucks for all 4 and i wanted to put them on my car, do you sell that bracket needed to bolt them on and would you be interested in putting together a complete kit for sale

Did anyone ever finish off a bracket drawing?

bump to check back to later

subscribing

bubbajoexxx had this in his build thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/033676-57.html
Fronts:




Rears:

[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 11-10-2008).]

Sorry I haven't been around for a while. I have alot going on as usuall.

Just a status report....So far NO problems with the brakes. I've raced it a few times and ran it hard! I did tear it down for an inspection and everything seems good. I may consider making brackets but haven't had the time yet. It's still on my mind. I would do the brackets slightly different just to ease the installation of them.

I did have a rubbing problem with the wheel and fender but it was because the coil spring was too short. I added a spacer and lifted the front by 1/2 inch. No rubs now. The wheels have a 45 offset.

I'll look into making brackets but everyone needs to realise machining the knuckles are required.

Check back later...

Any additional news regarding the E-brake?