Ordered 0.000 new bearings. I also wanted 0.001 and 0.002 but our us parts store did not have those on the catalogue. Repair manual says that using one side 0.000 and other side 0.001 or 0.002 ant then plastigage-ing those may cure the problem for 1k..30k miles.
0.001 is available in rockauto, but i have not seen 0.002 anywhere.

Engine update:
Engine codes are gone. Just a new battery did the trick. Also I added additional ground to the ignition block as suggested.
Knock in the other hand is still there, mains are OK, so it must be somewhere else. Since I'm planning to change to L67 internals anyway some day, I'll just torture the beast until I see what breaks.
power loss and spluttering is pinpointed also, just no parts yet. (ohmmeter on plug to plug equaled 22k, 108k and million) so swapped some old wires for now and it has the power. I have to order this DIY wire kit and make the right lengths on my own.

Suspension update:
Installed rear WCF coilovers. this is the WORST kit in the world, there is no math at all done for that kit. the 8" springs with 5" sleeves don't have enough travel for stock ride height. I have one inch of travel before bottoming out. The problem is NOT the spring rate, I will not get into details here, but after 2 hours of calculating and measuring the stock suspension I found out, that 0 to -2 drop is best done with 10" springs sitting on 5" sleeves witch sit on the perch welds. The spring rate must be the cars corner weight divided by 3"(half of the travel of 10" spring). So I ordered 300lb 10" springs today.

------------------
EX: ('86 2.8 V6)
NOW: ('85 3.4 V6) -> 3.8 V6 -> 3.8T V6 -> 3.8TI V6

Update:

Clutch pedal, line, cylinder gone.
Rear sway-bar added.
AC core(heater), lines gone.
a lot of messy wiring fixed.
New plug wires installed.

Update:

1. Battery mounted up front, under pass side headlight.
2. Headlights thrown out, with motors.
3. New sheetmetal headlight buckets made, fixed to front decklid. Holes not cut yet, my battery-drill did not accept 92mm hole drill. Hellas have arrived.
4. park/turn one light done. New ones use 55mm Hella modules to look better with twin hella headlights. Broke all my small drill bits on the other one.
5. turbo arrived. 50 trim compressor, 63 trim turbine T3/T4 hybrid.
6. turbo flanges bought today.
7. ac radiator gone.

Bah, I dunno when can I find the time to finish this. Going to be a father in 3 weeks...

Congratulations on Fatherhood! If being a father is new to you, it will change your life in many ways!!

Update:

5 and half months passed...
1. Bumper headlights half-way done.
2. Interior half-way done. (door sills, carpet, ceiling)
3. Turbo mounted
4. Water IC mounted(no lines, pump, radiator, reservoir yet)
5. Trans cooler added
6. Engine oil cooler added
7. Trunk cut and aluminium plate installed.
8. Speedo filter done.
9. Complete engine wiring redone from zero.
10. LS1 maf sensor installed.
11. 36# injectors installed.
12. chip burned(code from Darth). mem-cal modified to accept socket.
13. new starter, old one died on oil pressure check cranking.

As of Sunday, 01.jun Test start is a success!
1st try: 3 cylindres only, no response on gas.
Checked power in INJ2 witch now feeds 3 injectors like on oem engine, no power. Reseated firewall connector(I used one of those big 30 pole connectors there) and voila, power.
2nd try: Fireup! on 6 cyl. Engine sounds good without exhaust There is nothing after the internal WG. Shutoff.
Leak checks, oil cooler, trans cooler etc etc...
3rd try: Fireup, warmup, revved allmost to P&N limiter (4000) while squeezing intake tube, yes, some pressure did build up, nice!.

Stay tuned...

I will not post pics right now, since the car is a mess, pics will come, when some part of the build starts to look good.

Huge pressure relief was the fireup. So many things could be wrong, but nothing major at the moment, nice.

off topic a bit, but I just noticed that you're in Tallinn. that makes you one lucky guy!

I spent a week in Eastern Europe - a couple days in Ljubljana, Slovenia and a few days in Tallinn - at the end of this past March. I was there for the Canada - Estonia soccer friendly at A Le Coq Arena, or as I now call it, the Snow Bowl. I show up from Toronto for three days and it snowed the entire time I was there. I even got to go out onto the pitch to help shovel with some locals, which helped to make sure the game went ahead as planned.

Your country is charming and beautiful, and staying at a hostel in the old town was such a privilege. And the Estonian women ..... what more can I say. Wow. I can't wait to come back : )

PS ..... nice work on the swap.

Good job my friend! Keep it up!

Teaser...

haha sweet.

You can see from the reflection how dirty the car was, the sills have been cleaned, but doors not yet.

Some updates.

Car is running again after two years of building...





Still electronic problems so ran only 14.4 @ 94


Also in this video between 1:10 and 1:25
http://tv.motors24.ee/artik...ipaev+Haapsalus.aspx

I hope to fix the electronic issues by the first round of national championship here, witch is in 10 days.

quote Fog:Engine update: Engine...Knock in the other hand is still there, mains are OK, so it must be somewhere else. Since I'm planning to change to L67 internals anyway some day, I'll just torture the beast until I see what breaks....

Let's see if I understand what's been posted:
Rod knock + turbo = 14 second 1/4 mile?

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: Let's see if I understand what's been posted: Rod knock + turbo = 14 second 1/4 mile?

Engine has been rebuilt in the meantime.
Wrist pin had eaten its way to the piston.

Right now no knock, just more noise than in minivan, and therefore knock sensor is giving me false knock
so it pulls all the timing out and no power.

I have to look into the wire with and OSC and do a resistor mod. I just need to know, how much of the signal to take out.

First, Dyno run @ 7psi @ wheels.



Second: First round of the championship. Fourth place and ~513 points aquired.
Right lane is me, as seen from the bottom photo.

Last run, 14psi a LOT of backpressure due to 19mm internal WG (right now already bored out to 30mm, also wg housing ported, had a lip of ~3mm)



So, from the 14 second club to sub-13 second club

Almost to the 12 second club.

What was the time on C 02?

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 05-20-2009).]

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: Almost to the 12 second club. What was the time on C03?

Hmm, on the timeslip, the merc has "C02"

The C02 VS me run was semi-final. I smoked him at the start but he has a ton more power(read: N2O bottle at the boot).

C02(merc) vs C23(me)
reaction: 0.516 0.035
60': 2.035 2.106
1/4: 12.394 13.305
KPH: 186.42 170.01
Lost by 0.430

[This message has been edited by Fog (edited 05-20-2009).]

2 weeks till next event...

Acquired 24.5/8.0-15 MT ET Drag-s to replace 15 year old circuit slicks.
Acquired 15x7 rims(ET 35), also center needed to be lathe cut since Toyota has 54mm centers but 57.1 was needed.
new tensioner pulley.
exhaust muffler cut hollow, welded back together.
oxygen sensor bung installed to exhaust, new sensor, OEM hole(before turbo) tapped.
WG hole ported from 19mm to 30mm.
WG housing ported.
ECM ground grounded to engine not frame.
Fan/headlamps/WG pump power rewired.
knock module adapter arrived from Ryan.
180 t-stat installed instead of oem 195.
minor leaks fixed.

I really hope to get to 11-s. but that's just hope. low 12 would be nice also.


Edit: points in street-C class right now:
816 - 3-gen Camaro BB + 8-71
615 - SL 55 AMG merc + nitro
514 - bmw 316 + 5.4 V12 engine
513 - me

I plan to do some g-tech testing on the weekend and maybe to dyno next week.

[This message has been edited by Fog (edited 06-05-2009).]

g-tech testing failed.

3 runs with 5psi ended up 185hp at the wheels (230gs airflow)
on the dyno 230hp run I had 270gs airflow, so it is correct hp not problem with g-tech.

fourth try I upped the boost but engine cut out at 5200 and I eased off and looked at the logs. I went lean as ****.

Afterwards at home I took a look at the trip odo and it showed 220km. So ~27liters less full tank. gotcha, I just ran out of fuel since all sloshed to the back. Bad thing to happen while on boost.

Anyhow, a leak had developed somewhere behind the damper, and I took it off today. One oil pan bolt missing + leak near the front seal. Changed the seal, but the new bolt was not aligned with the hole, so I need to loosen all pan bolts tomorrow and get this thing tightened up. Also filled her up with 20 liters of 94 octane for next tests.

I'm planning to use the FieroX knowledge on the next event. I have sniffed around in web and here, and on the time-runs plan to:
20psi in the ET Drag-s.
100 octane mix (70% 94 octane, 7,5% ethanol, 22,5% Xylene).
15psi boost for start, then up from there as KR allows.

1 1/2 weeks till next event at the track.

Went to dyno today again... ~12psi @ 3000 and down to 10psi @ 6000

My own diagnose is, that wastegate opening is dictated by backpressure, not manual boost controller == stiffer spring needed.

Dyno graph is BS. The operator did not use pickup for RPM, so this is calculated from wheel speed.
I fortunately logged the runs, so, the real data(before converter) would be something like this:

rpm - hp - lb/ft - throttle%
3000 - 60 - 105 - 36%
3250 - 80 - 129 - 36%
3500 - 125 - 188 - 42%
3750 - 150 - 210 - 42%
4000 - 200 - 263 - 52%
4250 - 230 - 284 - 100%
4500 - 258 - 301 - 100%
4750 - 257 - 284 - 100%
5000 - 255 - 268 - 100%
5250 - 254 - 254 - 100%
5500 - 240 - 229 - 100%
5750 - 215 - 196 - 100%
6000 - 180 - 158 - 100%

Not too shabby. At the track I use only 4000-5500 part, so I should be over 230rwhp constantly on the quarter mile.
At the track, I plan to go as high as 18psi. (at 18.5psi injectors will fall short).

Also, measured backpressure at turbo inlet. it was 29psi @ 11psi at the compressor side.
A little on the high side. Not so good for the health of the exhaust valves.

Also, ported the WG housing even more.

Ugh, 4.5 days till next event...

The M T ET Drag's + the extra HP should give you killer 0-60 numbers if nothing breaks.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 06-15-2009).]

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: Drag ET's + the extra HP should give you killer 0-60 numbers if nothing breaks.

Allready waiting in the garage is a pair of 24.5/8.0-15 MT ET Drag-s with some 15" ET35 rims.
0-60 is verified with g-tech under 4 seconds right now(12psi).

12.68 @ 109.5

1.885 60'
17psi tires
14psi boost

Timeslip will come, when I get home. Right now Beer+BBQ.

Edit:

[This message has been edited by Fog (edited 06-21-2009).]

So, about the race.

Test1: 12psi boost, 20psi tires: 13.1 @ 106 -- just for baseline
Q1: 12psi boost, 15.5psi tires: 13.0 @ 107 -- rear end was loose as hell
Q2: 12psi boost, 18psi tires: 13.2 @ 106 -- awful start, 2.0 60ft

After that I had only one Q round left, but boost did not change although I had screwed the MBC up all the time. I opted for all-out tactics and disconnected WG reference hose.

Q3: 13psi boost, 17psi tires: 12.7 @ 109 -- awful start, 2.0 60ft

So to the eliminators:

Used wire to secure WG to closed position.
E1: Opponent had run 11.8 on the Q, so I played games at the start(25sec at pre-stage) but still lost by less than 3 feet at the end (0.017s). I still got my 12.6 @ 109.5

Official points are not out yet, but my own calculations place me second at the championship right now. Others have had their share of bad luck.

Next event in 2 weeks and I have no idea what to do to make her faster in that timerame.

quote Fog: Used wire to secure WG to closed position.

How much boost did that trick yield?

quote E1: Opponent had run 11.8 on the Q, so I played games at the start(25sec at pre-stage) but still lost ...

So who won:
816 - 3-gen Camaro BB + 8-71
615 - SL 55 AMG merc + nitro
514 - bmw 316 + 5.4 V12 engine?

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: So who won: 816 - 3-gen Camaro BB + 8-71 615 - SL 55 AMG merc + nitro 514 - bmw 316 + 5.4 V12 engine?

Boost was mare 14psi. I have outflown that ebay turbo.

Camaro won qualification, but detonated heavily and was forced to quit before eliminators. He still got 516 points for that.
AMG ran a top speed event(standing mile, his score 300kph) in the meantime, and did not show up. I think he broke something.
Dunno about the bimmer.
I got 511 points for my show.

This time, there was 9 registered participants, 7 showed up, camaro broke, so 6 placed eliminator.
Showed up people: http://bhra.ee/register/?page=25&race_id=9
Points: http://bhra.ee/register/?page=37

Just ordered GT2876R
It should get here 2-3 days before next event, then all hell brakes loose.

From the weight and mph I right now have 300rwhp. This one can support up to 430rwhp.

Edit:
Found myself in one video also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B77rMgWnIPc
0.50 .. 1.05 is Q2 me vs Camaro(10.3)

[This message has been edited by Fog (edited 06-22-2009).]

Almost off the ground...


Need to fix that next time

Edit: Another video http://tv.motors24.ee/artik...+Nightrace+2009.aspx
Me @ 6:15 - 6:25(Q2) and 22:15 - 22:35(E1)

[This message has been edited by Fog (edited 06-25-2009).]

Santa Claus dropped by today...



Todo with a week:
* water for turbo.
* inlet flange (right now T3, but this one has T2).
* outlet 5-bolt to 3-bolt adapter.
* Actuator.
* 4" intake for turbo + filter.
* TB oem MAF castings to remove.
* Modify FPR to gain additional 15psi of base pressure. (oem pressure, the injectors fall short @ 18.5psi, +15psi, equals +11% flow so I can go up to 22psi).
* new chip to burn with modified injector constant.
* test fuel pump capacity at 80psi.
* install fuel pressure gauge.

8 days to go...

Today I amused myself by stripping both turbos.

The fun part is, that although the new one has smaller turbine wheel(witch I don't like), the compressor wheel and housing is interchangeable.
So removed both compressor wheels and swapped them over along with housings.

By the numbers(I measured the new ebay turbo, since they are never what is written) the compressor wheel and housing is same as in T04B V-trim.

Right now, I'm trial-fitting everything. Monday, I try to get the turbo to balancing, although the compressor wheels are separately balanced (balancing marks on the back side of the wheel).

Some numbers for those, thinking about ebay knock-off turbos:

Advertised: "T3T4 .50 comp .63 turbine blah blah blah"
Actually:
Turbine: Minor: 56mm, Major: 65mm, Trim: 0.76, AR: 0.63 (close to turbonetics stage III)
Compressor: Minor: 51mm, Major: 76mm, Trim: 0.46, AR: 0.50 (close to T04E 46 trim)
Tried real maximum flow: 300whp @ 14psi

Advertised: "GT2876R .63 turbine .70 compr blah blah blah"
Actually:
Turbine: Minor: 46mm, Major: 53mm, Trim: 0.76, AR: 0.82 (close to GT28 wheel)
Compressor: Minor: 54mm, Major: 70mm, Trim: 0.60, AR: 0.70 (close to T04B V-trim)
Maximum flow: Who knows.

I made a "hybrid":
Turbine: Minor: 56mm, Major: 65mm, Trim: 0.76, AR: 0.63 (close to turbonetics stage III)
Compressor: Minor: 54mm, Major: 70mm, Trim: 0.60, AR: 0.70 (close to T04B V-trim)
Maximum flow: To be tested.

Some huge pictures are available for comparison.
http://fiero.otsing.org/swap/turbo/uus%20turbo

I was following your post with interest when I noticed where you are located. It happens that my wife (who is Estonian), myself and my 6 year old son will be traveling to Estonia, arriving July 2 for the Singing Revolution Tour. This is our first trip to Estonia.
Carwise, I have a 1986 Fiero with the stock v6 and auto that i have owned for 10 years and hope to swap in something faster down the road.

quote Originally posted by peterh: I was following your post with interest when I noticed where you are located. It happens that my wife (who is Estonian), myself and my 6 year old son will be traveling to Estonia, arriving July 2 for the Singing Revolution Tour. This is our first trip to Estonia. Carwise, I have a 1986 Fiero with the stock v6 and auto that i have owned for 10 years and hope to swap in something faster down the road.

Hehe, weather in quite nice here at the moment. "Usual estonian summer" is cloudy and wet.

Update on the "mistress" as my wife calls the fiero:

Injector is secured by a plate made out of oem maf sensor bottom plate.

Injector will be hopefully fed by this item, if I can find a Greddy dealer here.
http://www.gpiperformance.c...22&products_id=91836

I just need two pipe ends, one with -6AN female and another with -4AN female and for the same diameter pipe.
There are none in the AN lineup, but thankfully there is a "derivate" called JIT thread.

Bah...

I think I have bent the turbo shaft while swapping the compressor wheel.
By the look it is about 0.1mm, but enough to get me worried.

Installed T to the fuel line and got myself a port for the additional injector and a fuel pressure gauge.
If anyone wants to add one, here's what you need from a hydraulics shop:
The fitting on the fuel line is 7/16-20 JIC male. You need an adaptor witch has 7/16-20 JIC female on one end and whatever fits the gauge is on the other.
I used pneumatic parts for the T and gauge. Those are rated up to 100psi+ and are smaller than the all-out hydraulics parts.

Turbo-to-intercooler hose should arrive friday, 4" filter and that greddy piece next week.

That bent or out of balance thing annoys me the most at the moment... I think I'll strip the wheel once more.

I would really like to go to dyno or all-out road test on monday to push the turbo to the limit. Then if it breaks I have 4-5 days to find a new one.

Better news...

As soon as I loosened the compressor wheel nut the shaft returned to straight. So I measured and the problem was that the surface where the nut seats was not parallel with the surface(and 90 degrees with the shaft) where the wheel sits. The "off" was about 0.01"

So right now, I came back from a friendly lathe place and the wheel is hopefully okay now.

So, the car is together, I'm missing the air filter and suddenly lost idle. I think the iac motor is dead.

A little slow on this build, since the last two months I have been searching for a new fiero and researching on th425 builds... "fun" part is that there are no donors available.
But that's another story...

So, third championship round over.

Nothing good to report, got up to 22psi with the new turbo cold wheel/housing, but injectors fell short(have not finished the additional one yet) so detonated etc etc.
Best was 13.09 witch is 0.41s short of the last one. Trap speed was also 3mph slower, second to third change lagged a lot.
I was fifth out of five, so There was real problem that they might do a 4 placed eliminator and I go home with only 212 points.
BUT, Weather was on my side. After qualification rounds it was a washout, and everybody went home with 2xx points

Now, all I need to do, is to get to eliminators on the finals and one gray Camaro not to get higher than 3rd and I'll finish the season with second place



TODO:
1. Find out, witch injector flows most(I have two sets of Quad4 ones and one set of L27) and use that as additional injector.
2. Plumb it in.
3. Buy-Install pressure switch to activate injector @ 13psi.
4. reduce 2->3 shiftpoint to be on the same place as 1->2 witch changes like a hammer.

We have a American car show next weekend, where is dragrace also. I will use that as a test and tune day.

Btw: I bought another Fiero on sunday, but that will be another story...

Test day showed that 2nd -> 3rd shiftpoint needs to be reduced a lot.
12.9 @ 109 was the best.

Also, bought a bosch 044 and adjustable FPR today.

I'll slap the bosch inline with the walbro to get decent amount of fuel @ 90psi.

The "base fuel pressure" will be upped from 43.5psi to 65psi to make the 36# injectors flow 44#.
But, since base pressure is 65psi, the "boost pressure" will be up from there, so 65+25=90psi needs to be supplied at the top end.
Also, at that pressure, the flow needed is: 462cc/min(44#) X 6 injectors X 60 minutes in hour / 1000 cc in liter = 166.32 lph
The in-tank HP walbro does not support it with slim fuel lines etc.

Anyway, that should get the fueling to meet about 370 whp.

Last event is in 22.08. I'm aiming to get to elevens.

After that, this Fiero will be downgraded to street trim(smaller compressor, delete 7th injector, delete dual fuel pump, etc). ~11-12psi of boost and about 250 whp.
Maybe I'll even delete the air-water IC system to make it more reliable.