my old rusty 86 gt is getting a face lift, i have almost removed the engine sub frame, having to cut off the front bushings i now find the rear bushing bolts just spin, how on gods green earth do you get to the nuts to hold them, it seems the entire frame surrounds the nuts

gota cut yourself a little hole in the side of the frame, then either grab the nut with a pair of vicegrips or something, or weld the nut back down... do a search theres a few threads on how to do it.. i think some have had luck just drilling a hole and sticking a screwdriver in the hole to "jam" the nut in place so it dont move.

I had the same thing happen, and after considerable pondering, I thought that there had to be a way of removing it without cutting a hole in the frame. When the cradle was all ready to be removed, I torched off the head of the cradle bolt so that the body could be lifted off from it. Then, with the cradle out of the way, (and having secured the body on jack-stands) torch the bolt off again, about an inch below the frame. Then you can knock the nut (and the remaing inch long bolt) up into the channel. With a piece of bent wire you can fish the nut out through the oval opening in the side of the frame, just behind where the bolt was. By leaving an inch of the bolt, you can then put it in a vise, heat the nut and remove it. To reattach the nut in the frame, I drilled a 3/8" hole in the frame, I am guessing about 1/2" from the edge of the cradle bolt hole. Then after sliding the nut into place (using that same oval opening) rotate it until the nut flange is over the 3/8" hole (you will see what I mean here after you see the shape of the flange). I used a short bolt and washer to hold the nut in position. Then weld the nut through the 3/8" hole and your done. It might sound like a chore, but actually I did one in less time than it took me to figure out how to explain it!! One other caution though; Cover yourself up as best you can. You will be laying right under where you'll be welding. I had a big piece of cardboard that I cut a hole just big enough for the lens in the welding helment. Yeah, I still got burned. Hope this helps. John

i took off the rear bumper and support and stuck a prybar in there to keep it from spinning, but make sure the rear cradle is supported by a jack or jack stands, because once the nuts come off it will come down fast if it is not supported! It is a witch hat shaped nut on there if it is still original and the base of the witch hat nut is square and it overlayed with steel welded to the inside of the frame and when it rusts out the nuts just spin. that is why i used a prybar and wedged it between the inside frame wall and the base of the nut., kevin

[This message has been edited by den7bronco1 (edited 04-18-2009).]

I have a small pipe wrench I tap into a piece of conduet. I then pull the rear bumper and reach in and put the pipe wrench on the nut. I also use one hole of the plastic fastners for the inner fender that line up with the nut to spray WD40 all over it.

Yeah, remove the bumper, don't cut the frame.

quote Originally posted by 86fierofun: Yeah, remove the bumper, don't cut the frame.

But sending sparks dancing across the shop floor with a cut off wheel is so much fun.

For the sake of discussion, just how hard is it to remove the rear bumper? Can you get a torch on the hat from the rear? How much time is involved and can one person remove the bumper w/o damage?

I have no welding skills, have to hire it done so if it's easier, then i'll be all about going in from the bumper the next drop.

Bumpers pretty easy.
You pull the tail lights and there are about 5 plastic fastners along the top edge.
Pull the innter fender screws into the bumper.
Pull the side marker lights.
pull the plastic fastners under the trunk.
should be ready to come off. Have to reach in and pull the license lights.
Once the skin is off you pull the six bolts holding the metal bumper on and you can look right down the frame rails.
It fairly far in so getting heat on them would be hard.
If you take you time on the plastic fastners you can work the center pins out and remove them without breaking any of them. I alway have good luck. Even wd40 helps getting them out. I use a wire side cutter and needle nose pliers to carefully work the center pins out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7z4dGfpfjI

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 04-19-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: Bumpers pretty easy. You pull the tail lights and there are about 5 plastic fastners along the top edge. Pull the innter fender screws into the bumper. Pull the side marker lights. pull the plastic fastners under the trunk. should be ready to come off. Have to reach in and pull the license lights. Once the skin is off you pull the six bolts holding the metal bumper on and you can look right down the frame rails. It fairly far in so getting heat on them would be hard. If you take you time on the plastic fastners you can work the center pins out and remove them without breaking any of them. I alway have good luck. Even wd40 helps getting them out. I use a wire side cutter and needle nose pliers to carefully work the center pins out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7z4dGfpfjI

Thats the way we do them. It beats weakening the frame by cutting a hole. Once you remove the rear facia, you can reach and hold the cage nuts very easily with a faucet wrench.
PB Blaster often helps or use WD 40 as above. Then a simple shot with an impact should get the bolts out. Its about a 30 minute job.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "