It burned up when I started engine in 1 minute,more later..Do not use this on exhaust system I used duplicolor Hi temp ceramic ,,I spent a lot of time on my exhaust system trying different things,different products.. this was a real disapointment my exhaust were a burnt orange,DH1610 high heat orange... and a good match with the fiero intake stock color .. I was originally going to home coat with tech line home coat ceramic,,(about $20.00) but decided to try this to see if it would work for the fiero community..The preperation I did was far beyond what most would do,, I made the exhaust manifolds look as close to new as I could,lightly sanded and painted ,,and then followed the cure procedure ..MY pipes look like charcoal I also laid on some V H T orange ,, it held up better
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 03-03-2009).]
I used the VHT on the Short Bus (formerly known as Old Yeller). I went above and beyond with the prep and followed the heat treat steps. It is/was holding up very well. I should add that I also wraped them in header wrap after I ran them on the car for awhile. I wanted to make sure it would not flake off before I put the wrap on. I was very happy with the way they turned out.
Pat
[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 03-03-2009).]
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10:07 PM
Francis T Member
Posts: 6620 From: spotsylvania va. usa Registered: Oct 2003
What heat was that, we use the 1300 deg stuff. Here's a tip when using VHT nad othe spray bomb hi temps, after you spray it let sit maybe 10mins and then pass a propane torch over it slowly, you can see flash over as you go. That wont fullly cure it but should with scraching. That stuff comes off so easy, one lil bump and you have to spray the spot again. Also, if youre going to use heat-wrap, put lots a nd lots of coats of paint your headers, even then they will still rust-out a lot qucker than with no wrap. A good pro ceramic job is best for long life.
My orange looks like katakas manifolds ,,except the flanges that mate with the block & the Iron where the Y pipe bolts up,,the iron is still orange but the stainless is blackened and now is bubbleling below the where the Y pipe exit ,,meets the upper cat pipe where the donut gasket goes.. Autozone has the donut for $7.95 I painted the inside also,,the pipes look like they have been bar-B que,d So avoid the duplicolor for the exhaust manifolds,,I was surprised at how rapidly the paint went up is a smelly cloud of smoke like my fiero hopes and dreams .. At least the car runs fairly good on 2 year old gas ..I was very curious about this ,,not to many years ago.. if gas was a year old it was bad.. I painted the muffler with VHT flat orange,, the VHT must be shaken much longer than the Duplicolor to properly mix.. This is the can that says "dyno tested" high heat ceramic(ceramic in small letters ) 1200o
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 03-03-2009).]
I spent about 10 hours on my exhaust manifolds in preparation,, and painting not including oven cure time,, I used oven cleaner on the inside passageways and then sanded the inside passageways. I used a drill mounted round wire brush ,,sand paper .wire brushes to bring the manifold to a like new from the factory appearance ,, then painted,, dried inside overnight then did the first cure in the SUN,,then heated in the oven at 300o for 2 hours cooled off then cured at 500o for a couple of hours ,When I did install I kept manifolds as clean as possible.. I did ceramic paint to lower engine compartment temp ,,aid exhaust flow (reason for inside coat) and to improve engine appearance (well I can,t wear make up),,I wanted to eliminate most of the metal heat guards,the fans the tubes pointing at coil ect. I am very surprised at the poor rsults I acheived ,,hope this saves some one the headache I just had,,My engine look spec ta cu lar,,untill I cranked it up.. My engine use to start as soon as you hit the starter now it takes 2 seconds for it to hit ,, oh well !
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10:55 PM
katatak Member
Posts: 7136 From: Omaha, NE USA Registered: Apr 2008
What heat was that, we use the 1300 deg stuff. Here's a tip when using VHT nad othe spray bomb hi temps, after you spray it let sit maybe 10mins and then pass a propane torch over it slowly, you can see flash over as you go. That wont fullly cure it but should with scraching. That stuff comes off so easy, one lil bump and you have to spray the spot again. Also, if youre going to use heat-wrap, put lots a nd lots of coats of paint your headers, even then they will still rust-out a lot qucker than with no wrap. A good pro ceramic job is best for long life.
Yes I used the 1300* VHT (black). I used several coats and put it on pretty heavy each coat. Let them sit out in the West Texas Sun for several hours between coats and heat treat. I think it is also important to keep the rattle can as warm as possible and to shke the crap out of it even while spraying. Also,after running them on the car for awhile, I took em off and wrapped them with header wrap then used the Header wrap sealer and more heat treat. I read a few threads where people thought that there would be a rust issue. Out here in West Texas, moisture is not an issue.
Now Carver1 has the car and he lives in a slightly wetter climate. We will keep an eye on it.
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11:38 PM
katatak Member
Posts: 7136 From: Omaha, NE USA Registered: Apr 2008
I spent about 10 hours on my exhaust manifolds in preparation,, and painting not including oven cure time,, I used oven cleaner on the inside passageways and then sanded the inside passageways. I used a drill mounted round wire brush ,,sand paper .wire brushes to bring the manifold to a like new from the factory appearance ,, then painted,, dried inside overnight then did the first cure in the SUN,,then heated in the oven at 300o for 2 hours cooled off then cured at 500o for a couple of hours ,When I did install I kept manifolds as clean as possible.. I did ceramic paint to lower engine compartment temp ,,aid exhaust flow (reason for inside coat) and to improve engine appearance (well I can,t wear make up),,I wanted to eliminate most of the metal heat guards,the fans the tubes pointing at coil ect. I am very surprised at the poor rsults I acheived ,,hope this saves some one the headache I just had,,My engine look spec ta cu lar,,untill I cranked it up.. My engine use to start as soon as you hit the starter now it takes 2 seconds for it to hit ,, oh well !
I wonder if it has something to do with the color. I don't think I have ever seen any "high heat" orange look good after a few minutes of running? The black VHT I used looked better after the heat treat and run in than it did right after application. It looked spotty until the heat treat. Could have been how thick it was applied too.
That really sucks after all that work and time and it did not last.
Pat
[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 03-03-2009).]
I've never had a problem applying the VHT paint without heat treating, I do a little sanding then spray it on, crank up the engine and burn it on. What I did before applying heat wrap to avoid the corrosion risk is spray on a good coat and then wrap thin gauge aluminum sheet metal from Home Depot along with some aluminum foil around the runners in the areas that would normally come into contact with the heat wrap so that in the event the wrap gets wet it will not be in contact with the runners to promote rust.
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09:46 AM
PFF
System Bot
Francis T Member
Posts: 6620 From: spotsylvania va. usa Registered: Oct 2003
I wonder if it has something to do with the color. I don't think I have ever seen any "high heat" orange look good after a few minutes of running? The black VHT I used looked better after the heat treat and run in than it did right after application. It looked spotty until the heat treat. Could have been how thick it was applied too.
That really sucks after all that work and time and it did not last.
Pat
Hmm, it could be a color thing, I've only used black and haven't had any problems like his?
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09:57 AM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
When I used the Duplicolor and I first strated my 3.4 after the swap. The distrib was 180 out, so the manifolds got red hot and cooked off the paint, it did leave a blue tint though. The biggest thing on high heat paint is to cure it right. I used VHT on my new Y-pipe and exhaust. cured it on the car as per the can, and it seem to be holding up well. I havent looked under the heat wrap on the Y-pipe though.
you may want to try the rustoleum high temp bbq grill paint. only ocmes in 2 colors tho, black and silver. it's rated 1500 degrees, so should work on the logs. it is fine on my egr and flanges, I replaced my logs with sprints, and used the silver to make it prettier at the flange ends.
I used the dupli color to see how it would work on the fiero..I picked the orange because I knew it would contrast well with the stock fiero intake manifold color ,,my engine has some issues but this should not have caused the paint to go up in a smelly charcoal mess,in 60 seconds ,,I expexted some blistering ,,not smoke signals,, ha ha I did this for forum members also my main interest is allways me, me, me ,me I am going to clean up an area on the maifold and paint with some flat orange VHT when I get it running properly I will home coat with tech line my original Idea.. I will not be bar hopping for the next year and will miss every meeting of my lady friends quilting & sewing society darn it !!
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12:18 AM
KurtAKX Member
Posts: 4008 From: West Bloomfield, MI Registered: Feb 2002
I just put the VHT 2000 degree stuff on a cast iron 2.5 manifold I got off an 81 Jeep CJ yesterday and I did the oven pre-treat tonight.
Why the cast iron manifold? Its for my turbo setup, and should stand up to the heat cycling and weight hanging off it better than the tubular steel piece, which is prone to cracking in the "crotch" of the Y's in the manifold.
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01:12 AM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
Hey Stan, what's the temperature rating of the paint you used? If it's only rated for 500°F, then it's no surprise that it burned up.
This thread reminded me to buy the high-temp POR15 (Black Velvet) for my headers. I'm going to remove the header wrap and see how well the POR15 holds up. It's rated for 1200°F. Thanks for the reminder, Stan.
The black silicone paint (DEI brand) I used with the header wrap is alright, but doesn't meet my standards. After a few months, it starts to flake off the edges of the flanges, allowing surface rust to form. I also don't like how water soaks into the header wrap. Aside from being a potential rust risk, it's also annoying when the water evaporates and fogs up the rear window.
Anyway, I'm blabbing... later!
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-05-2009).]
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01:32 AM
Oreif Member
Posts: 16460 From: Schaumburg, IL Registered: Jan 2000
I used POR-20. I used it on my exhaust when I did the 3.4L and it never had a problem. They have 3 different colors: Black velvet Manifold Gray Bright Aluminum
