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  What needs to be removed in order to replace my 2.8 oil pan gasket?

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What needs to be removed in order to replace my 2.8 oil pan gasket? by Kitskaboodle
Started on: 03-02-2009 11:10 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: Terry_w on 03-03-2009 01:23 PM
Kitskaboodle
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Report this Post03-02-2009 11:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KitskaboodleSend a Private Message to KitskaboodleDirect Link to This Post
I would like to replace my oil pan gasket on my 85 GT auto.
I bought the cork Fel-Pro gasket.

A) What must I take off in order to get the pan out of the car?
B) Do any of you use sealant with the cork or just the cork? (your opinions are welcome)
C) Any pointers/advice/tips on getting it done?

Thanks! Kit
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sardonyx247
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Report this Post03-02-2009 11:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageSend a Private Message to sardonyx247Direct Link to This Post
One trick is to put a 2x4 between the ballancer and the cradle so you can take off the mount and still have some room.
And that will support the front of the engine.

Edit to add:
I always cover the gasket both sides with sealent as I hate leaks.
But some say not to use any.

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[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 03-02-2009).]

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Brocephus
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Report this Post03-02-2009 11:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BrocephusSend a Private Message to BrocephusDirect Link to This Post
I used Indianhead Gasket Shellac on mine and I can guarantee with a great amount of certainty that it will never leak again.

...I'd just hate to be the poor bastard that has to remove it, hehe.
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Fastback 86
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Report this Post03-03-2009 01:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback 86Send a Private Message to Fastback 86Direct Link to This Post
You need to remove the starter, the dust shield on the transmission and the front motor mount. I used sardonyx's 2X4 method to get the engine up and the mount out of the way and it worked fine. Pan is all sealed up and not leaking any more.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post03-03-2009 01:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
Ditto on the starter, flywheel cover plate, and engine mount. Although, I found that you can remove one starter bolt (the one closer to the oil pan) and rotate the starter out of the way. That saves you from having to mess with the wiring, and the battery cables. Plus, you don't have to worry about losing the starter shims.
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bowrapennocks
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Report this Post03-03-2009 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bowrapennocksDirect Link to This Post
I used Permatex non-hardening gasket sealant on my oil pan. I always use it, it is easy to remove if you have to take the pan off again and I never had a leak. Also remember to torque the oil pan bolts to spec. If you overtighten them you could distort the oil pan. On an 86 engine, the front timing chain cover is aluminum and easy to strip out if you apply too much muscle.
Jim

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Jim
86 SE 355 Body Kit w/3.1 Auto (Sold)
87 T-Top Coupe 2.8/5 Speed new project

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Kitskaboodle
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Report this Post03-03-2009 10:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KitskaboodleSend a Private Message to KitskaboodleDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for all the replies gentleman!
A little more involved than I thought but....it has to be done.

Kit
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Terry_w
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Report this Post03-03-2009 01:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Terry_wSend a Private Message to Terry_wDirect Link to This Post
If you are going to remove the pan you might think about changing the oil pump while you're in there. (especially if you are going to use the sealer.)
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