I just got the adjustable banjo online and i was wondering if anyone has any tips.

Well first im going to start with a question. Will pulling out my master cylinder cause clutch fluid to leak out? (Just enough to remove the snap ring) I dont want to make this my first time bleading the clutch system.

It is a lot easier if you take the clutch line loose before removing the master cylinder, otherwise you may put a kink in the line. You don't have to if you are really careful.
I have installed the adjustable banjo on both my fiero's and it is really simple. Remove the old banjo from the pedal (there is a clip that holds it in place, Save this clip) Then unbolt the master cylnder, remove the snap ring, and take out the old banjo. You will need the washer thing that is on the old banjo, so you have to cut it in two, then install it on the new banjo. Reassemble and bleed the clutch. It really helped my clutch problems.
If you bought the adjustable banjo from Rodney, it should come with some pretty good instructions.
Nick

Everyone has their opinion on the clutch issues, and some believe that an adjustable banjo is just the thing. I'm the second owner of my Fiero, and the original owner installed an adjustable banjo to cure clutch issues my vehicle once had.

It turns out he didn't know about the orginal aluminum pedals that are prone to bend & twist, along with several other minor issues. I reverted back to the original set-up a few years back after I replaced the aluminum clutch pedal. I wish I had taken photos of the original unit - it was so badly bent & twisted, the adjustable banjo was unable to be properly aligned on the pin that protudes from the clutch pedal. The "round" hole on the banjo was very, very oval. The vehicle also had issues with both the master & slave clutch cylinders.

The master & slave cylinders were old with worn seals, so those were easily rectified with new units. Bent pedal assembly was easily replaced with a steel one from the Fiero Store. My new master cylinder came with a replacement (non-adjustable) banjo.

Short story of the matter: I'm not a believer, nor do I endorse, the use of the adjustable banjo. These Fieros worked perfectly fine when brand new, and for a good number of years, without ever needing an adjustable banjo. Not everyone knows about the aluminum pedals being a weak point with the clutch (it is well documented on this site, though). Once educated, this item alone cures many clutch-related issues. The adjustable banjo is just covering up, not curing, the real problem.

Rule-of-thumb with the clutch pedal has been this - if it's the original aluminum one, replace it. It's bound to be bent, and if not, will be. The hydraulic clutch system on the Fiero is not complicated, though can be rather frustrating. Given some patience, you can restore the clutch system to the way it operated from the factory using parts that match original spec. If the banjo was adjusted improperly, you could actually do damage to the master cylinder.

Hope this helps...

The adjustable banjo is not made to really increase pedal throw over stock. I replaced both my clutch pedals as well, and still had issues. The end of the stock banjo that entered the master cylinder was no longer rounded, but almost flat. The end that met the pedal was also worn out. I replaced it with the adjustable banjo, and my clutch worked flawlessly. It brought the new pedal back up to stock height, and really helped engagement.

hole points up

After replaceing both clutch master and slave on My 86GT I still couldnt get the proper throw,the pedal was not sitting the required 1" above the brake pedal due to the lenght of the rod coming from the master to the pedal. I made an adjustable rod that fit properly to achieve the 1" and all is fantastic!

True I'm sure the clutches worked flawlessly when new.

But 25 years later who knows what is bent and out of shape. Truth is even with a new pedal I had a lot of slop in my 84 system and the adjustable banjo made everything work a whole lot better.

I found the adjustable banjo to be the answer. Period.

The 24 years of wear left enough play in the mechanism that the clutch was not disengaging fully. The pedal was the same height as the brake pedal, even with a new banjo.

The adjustable banjo allowed the pedal height to come up to the 3/4" above the brake which it should be, and allowed the clutch to fully disengage. This then allowed my synchroes to do their work and the transmission smoothed right out. Prior to implementing the adjustable banjo, no amount of bleeding would cure the problem. The master cylinder piston was simply not travelling far enough.

Hope this helps.

Arn

Thanks for all the reply's but now i am on the installing phase. I had previously bought the adjustable banjo and a new steel pedal. All though i have an 87 with a steel pedal, i want to be damn sure that everything is fixed and straightened out.

So here is my first problem.... As i just turned 18 and this is the first car i have ever owned or worked on i dont know much yet. I am not a mechanic. (really just got into cars a year ago when i realized that i am going to be getting one, but i prior to that i knew nothing)
-ok so i have the old banjo pin out and the banjo disconnected.
-got the two bolts of the master off
-looking at rodney's directions and it says to pull the master out just enough to take the snap ring off.
-i pull it out about two inches an see no sign of a snap ring
-i take the rubber boot off to see if it under there.
-try to pull the banjo straight out, wont budge but i dont want to pull too hard.

Ok, so what is this snap ring? how do i get to it? it must be metal right?

Just unhook the master from the firewall. You'll see the banjo will come right out of the master, with the clip removed but you may need to use the old washer. My adjustable banjo did not have it. So I cut the old banjo in two and used the old washer from it.

The clip is inside the rim of the master. It is easiest to get out with a pair of special pliers designed for it, but you can unhook it with anything sharp that can get to one of the little holes.

Hope this helps.

Arn

So the clip is that little black peice between the smushed end of the banjo and the very front of tthe master? and i just pry it out?