i can get the motor for $200-300 with wiring and ECM, ive already heard it run and a friend drove it 30 miles from the salvage yard to his house, 1998 buick regal, wrecked in the rear.

i was thinking about getting the motor and putting the top end on my non-supercharged 84 fiero with 3800 series II motor, my 84 has around 90,000 miles on the motor, i know that myc ompression would be bumped up, and the pistons/rods are different in the supercharged blocks, but i also know that this will work cause we've done it before here in WV. and the car is still up and running with the L36 low end and L67 top end.


my question is:

what would make teh supercharger snout leak oil?

can that be fixed relatively cheap?

matthew

Are you sure its leaking around the snout?

If there is oil the snout it could be from the belts splash it up as they spin, and could be from leaky valve cover gaskets. The oil trickls down the sides, on the belts and then coats the snout.

I would check the charger to see if its boosting. Can always purchase a used charger.

yes you can rebuild the snout. would also be a good time to replace the couplings
http://www.zzperformance.co.../products.php?id=106

Make sure that the motor was not "tilted" down toward the ground, the oil can just be leaking through the breather hole in the end of the snout.

ha ha splash up from the leaky valve covers that is funny!!!

[This message has been edited by revin (edited 01-16-2009).]

There is a snout seal around the shaft that keeps the supercharger oil in the reservoir and from leaking out. That is most likely the cause. At 158,000 miles, the supercharger will likely need a rebuild, with new seals, bearings, a coupling and fresh oil. You will also need to check the rotors for wear. The Eaton is not hard to rebuild but you'll need to check if it is sounds and rebuildable. If any dirt has entered the housing it could have caused some wear.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I have seen a few blowers with 250k on them, and they did NOT need a rebuild. The bearings seem to last forever, and there are no seals in the whole deal other than the snout seal, so if its leaking its from the breather or from where it bolts together.

Rebuilding anything but the coupler at 200k miles is stupid, and I have not seen any extreme mileage blowers that need new rotor bearings. Not to mention it is fairly hard to rebuild them.

[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 01-16-2009).]

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: I have seen a few blowers with 250k on them, and they did NOT need a rebuild. The bearings seem to last forever, and there are no seals in the whole deal other than the snout seal, so if its leaking its from the breather or from where it bolts together. Rebuilding anything but the coupler at 200k miles is stupid, and I have not seen any extreme mileage blowers that need new rotor bearings. Not to mention it is fairly hard to rebuild them.

i sell lots of the nose seals at my work, seems like they have an average life of 80-120k miles around here..., never a "legit" sale for the bearings tho.. alot of the customers like to buy the whole rebuild kit, "just to be safe"

If you wish to rebuild; here is something that I found that may help.

SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

The snout can be easily rebuilt in a few hours. You will need a better than average mechanical ability. The only special tool needed is a hydraulic press to remove the inboard bearing and drive.
As you look down on the blower you will see 3 main assemblies:
The snout.
A plate
The blower housing.

SNOUT NOMENCLATURE:
The snout consists of (from the pulley end working towards the blower housing).
Drive shaft
Pulley nut
Pulley
Pulley key way
Seal retainer
Seal
Front bearing
Rear bearing
Aluminum drive with drive pins
Plastic interface assembly.

PARTS LIST:
The parts can be found at an Industrial Bearing/Seal company.

The seal is manufactured by Chicago Rawhide.
# 7968 (preferred) #7965 or #7966 can also be used.

The bearings are made by NSK. You will need one of each. They are common sizes but you must use bearings with the C3 clearance and neoprene seals which is proper for press fit aplications. Bearings with regular clearance will bind when pressed into the housing.
# NC6204C3X28
# NC6203C3X28

Loctite sealant
# 51831 Gasket Eliminator 518

Grease:
Husky pt # 00603 or similar

The coupler can be reused if it is not damaged. It consists of a plastic disk, a nylon bumper, and a metal spring Best to replace on high mileage units though.
Drain all fluid from the blower.
Remove the pulley nut
Remove the pulley. (use a 3 pronged 2” pulley puller)
Remove the key way.
Remove the seal retainer.
Remove the seal.
Remove the bolts (in a cross pattern) that retain the snout to the blower housing. (The bolts go through the 1” plate and screw into the Blower housing.)
Remove the snout. (Use a plastic hammer to tap the end of the snout to break loose the snout.)
Set the blower housing with the plate aside.
Remove the shaft. (Use a plastic hammer to drive the shaft to the rear of the snout. The front bearing will stay in the snout.)
Remove the front bearing from the snout housing. (Use a wooden dowel to drive the bearing forward.)
Use the hydraulic press to remove the rear bearing and the aluminum drive from the shaft. Be careful not to damage the drive. Note that the end of the shaft and the drive are knurled (splined).

Assembly hints:

Before you start assembling the snout read through the instructions and figure out how you will do the operations. Some tools may have to be made. I would use wood or plastic pipe. This way the assembly will be done quickly an the parts will not heat up or cool down before they can be assembled

All parts to be frozen should be sprayed with WD40 and put into a zip lock bag prior to freezing.

Get the cooled parts set up for assembly first. Then get the heated parts out and assemble.

Heated parts should be placed in a preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes before assembly.

The heated parts will shrink when they come in contact with the cooled parts but will assemble easily. Remember to assemble quickly.

Get some practice engaging the knurles on the aluminum drive. It is critical that the drive is engaged properly and that the drive goes on square. DO NOT hit the drive’s pins.

When ever you tap something in to place do not use a steel hammer directly on the part. Use a plastic hammer or a block of wood between the part and the hammer.

SNOUT ASSEMBLY:

Clean the snout housing, shaft, and drive.

Spray the shaft and front bearing with WD40 and put them into a Zip Lock bag. Then put them into a freezer. Leave the parts in the freezer for 3 to 4 hours.

When the shaft is frozen, heat the rear bearing to 200 degrees.

When the bearing is heated remove the shaft and assemble the rear bearing insuring that the bearing is fully seated. When the bearing is cool to the touch spray with WD40 and place the shaft with the bearing into the Zip Lock bag and back into the freezer for one hour.

When the shaft is frozen.. Heat the drive to 300 degrees.

Assemble the drive on to the shaft.

Let the drive cool down and then refreeze the shaft assembly.

Heat the snout housing to 250 degrees.

Install the frozen front bearing. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.

Heat the snout with the bearing to 250 degrees.

Install the shaft into the snout housing, Make sure the front bearing does not move and that the shaft is fully seated.
Put some Blower oil on the bearings. Turn the shaft through both ways make sure it is smooth and there is no grinding.

Put some tape on the sharp edge of the shaft to protect the seal.

Put some Blower oil on the rubber part of the seal and tap the seal in. Make sure it is fully seated.

Install the seal retainer.

Install the Key way.

Install the Pulley.

Install the nut.

Now take a minute to inspect the completed assembly and get ready to finish the assembly process.

BLOWER ROTORS/HOUSING:

You can do this while you are waiting for the parts to freeze.

Set the blower on it’s end and remove the 1” plate and rotors. Be careful do not damage the rotors. I like to put a couple fluffy towels down and lay the rotors on them. Look for damage. There are 2 bearings with seals in the inlet side of the case. These bearings are packed with grease. Check the seals they should be supple and flexible. Re pack with the listed grease prior to reassembly.

Use red Scotch Bright to clean all mating surfaces.

Wipe the rotors, mating surfaces, and blower housing down with a clean rag dampened with Carb cleaner prior to reassembly.

Put a thin coating of the sealant ¼ “ wide (starting at the outer edge) and only on one side of the part to be assembled.

For assembly set the blower housing on its inlet side (with the big hole side up) and drop all parts down.

Be careful sliding the rotors in. Do it very gently. Once fully seated tap the parts together and look for sealant squeeze out .

Put the plastic interface on the blower side of the drive.

Put the snout on the blower housing. Tap it look for sealant squeeze out. Replace the bolts tighten (in a cross pattern) hand tight first then to 65 INCH pounds (use the cross pattern).

Wipe off the excess sealant.

Turn the blower through a few times look for binding grinding ETC.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I have a snout sitting collecting dust if you are interested in buying it. It has approx 8,000 miles on it. I bought it from ZZP a few years back because mine was leaking as well, and I found it easier to change the whole snout rather than messing with the bearing.

I will never need it because I have since installed a Gen V blower.

Shoot me a PM if interested. I can let it go real cheap.

BTW, I second the comment about making sure the car is not tilted.... been there done that with a snout. I had left side of the car on jack stands, and after a day I smelled the distictive blower oil smell (yuck). Leveled the car off, topped off the oil, and presto!

[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 01-16-2009).]

any updates on your top-swap?