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Anyone Pulled an Engine just to Replace the Flexplate? by Saxman
Started on: 01-10-2009 08:08 PM
Replies: 12
Last post by: hookdonspeed on 01-12-2009 05:09 PM
Saxman
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Report this Post01-10-2009 08:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SaxmanClick Here to visit Saxman's HomePageSend a Private Message to SaxmanDirect Link to This Post
Yeah - I put the wrong damn flexplate in my 3.4 swap. So, I just got the cradle out and unhooked the harness from the auto trans.

I plan to just lift the engine off the cradle intact, remove the torque converter, trade the weighted flexplate for the neutrally-balanced one, then put the torque converter back in the trans housing and push the engine back on.

If you did it another (easier) way, please let me know. I have all the trans bolts off and will remove the engine mount bolts the next chance I get in the garage. Maybe I should have removed the torque converter bolts before taking the cradle out. That would have made it so I wouldn't have to completely pull the engine off...

Thanks in advance. Photos coming in a few hours.

Andrew
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Nosferatu187
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Report this Post01-10-2009 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nosferatu187Send a Private Message to Nosferatu187Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Saxman:

Yeah - I put the wrong damn flexplate in my 3.4 swap. So, I just got the cradle out and unhooked the harness from the auto trans.

I plan to just lift the engine off the cradle intact, remove the torque converter, trade the weighted flexplate for the neutrally-balanced one, then put the torque converter back in the trans housing and push the engine back on.

If you did it another (easier) way, please let me know. I have all the trans bolts off and will remove the engine mount bolts the next chance I get in the garage. Maybe I should have removed the torque converter bolts before taking the cradle out. That would have made it so I wouldn't have to completely pull the engine off...

Thanks in advance. Photos coming in a few hours.

Andrew


Well no, but if it makes you feel any better I got to change my Fiero clutch 3 times in a row. A vendor (that shall go nameless) kept sending me clutches that were made incorrectly. It was a defect in manufacturing, it wasn't the vendors fault and they compensated me for it. Between phone calls, shipping parts back and forth, waiting, etc. it took about a month to get it all sorted out. Been years ago but I remember it like it was yesterday.

Mike
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darkhorizon
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Report this Post01-10-2009 09:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
3800 GTP guys break them all the time, so dont feel like your the only one "changing clutches" in automatics lol.
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Nosferatu187
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Report this Post01-10-2009 10:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nosferatu187Send a Private Message to Nosferatu187Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by darkhorizon:

"......so dont feel like your the only one "changing clutches" in automatics lol.


Automatic?.......Ah-ha! Maybe that was my problem all along!

Mike
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post01-10-2009 10:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaDirect Link to This Post
I've pulled Fiero engines out the top and it can be done but we find it easier to drop the cradle. If all of your bolts cooperate then it should take no more than 3-4 hours to drop the cradle and 2-3 hours putting it back up. Anyone who works on Fieros has had the pleasure of removing the cradle and separating the engine from the trans two times on a single job...improper or bad components, and unforseen problems do sometimes come up. Chalk it up as you are not alone.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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katatak
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Report this Post01-11-2009 12:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for katatakSend a Private Message to katatakDirect Link to This Post
Did I understand right that you already pulled the cradle and have the engine/trans out of the car?

Either way, I would take the torque converter bolts off of the flexplate and leave it in the trans. If they are like normal GM autos, the torque converter should push back into the trany far enough that you could get to the flexplate bolts in the crank. Then all you need to do is seperate the trans and motor about an inch, pull the flexplate out and install the other one. You could probaly take the front motor mount out and get the motor to move enough forward without actually pulling the motor off the cradle.

I am not familiar with a auto Fiero but I have changed many a flexplate on SBC's without seperating the trans from the engine and/or pulling the engine/trans from the car. Hope this helps.

Pat
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Saxman
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Report this Post01-11-2009 03:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SaxmanClick Here to visit Saxman's HomePageSend a Private Message to SaxmanDirect Link to This Post
Yes - the cradle is out. I have to pull those TC bolts next.

Thanks for the replies!
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post01-11-2009 01:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoDirect Link to This Post
Remove the torque converter bolts through the starter hole, then you only need about a 3 inch gap between the engine & trans.
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30+mpg
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Report this Post01-11-2009 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 30+mpgSend a Private Message to 30+mpgDirect Link to This Post
"Anyone Pulled an Engine just to Replace the Flexplate?"

Yes, I have.
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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post01-11-2009 03:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Direct Link to This Post
I changed the flexplate in the LT1 Roadster with the cradle in the car - not easy but still saved some hassle.
It's on page 8 of my Roadster build thread.

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Saxman
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Report this Post01-11-2009 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SaxmanClick Here to visit Saxman's HomePageSend a Private Message to SaxmanDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:
Remove the torque converter bolts through the starter hole, then you only need about a 3 inch gap between the engine & trans.


Thanks, Lou. I was trying to avoid pulling it since it took so long to get the shims to stay in place while I tightened the bolts, but now that the cradle is out, that is the only way. More to come!

I got up at 3am today for an inauguration parade rehearsal. I'm too worn to make it in the garage tonight...
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post01-12-2009 02:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoDirect Link to This Post
as far as the starter shims go, use scotch tape to hold the shims to the starter (doesn't take up any space) and will keep them all in place while you bolt it up !
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hookdonspeed
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Report this Post01-12-2009 05:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hookdonspeedClick Here to visit hookdonspeed's HomePageSend a Private Message to hookdonspeedDirect Link to This Post
or a spot of greese will hold them too... thats usually how i do it
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