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? for 2.5 removal from the top by FieroSloth
Started on: 01-05-2009 05:40 PM
Replies: 5
Last post by: thumper_64735 on 01-06-2009 10:06 PM
FieroSloth
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Report this Post01-05-2009 05:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroSlothSend a Private Message to FieroSlothDirect Link to This Post
Trying to remove my 85 automatic 2.5 engine from the top based on prior posts to fix an oil leak. Where/what motor or cradle mounts need to be removed? Are there any other tranny-engine connections to remove besides the bellhousing type bolts? Do I need to remove the main harness from the ECm as if dropping the cradle? Easiest way to unhook the A/C compressor? Trying to look and use Haynes has had limited success on my part. Any help is appreciated. Any pointers appreciated

Thanks, Troy
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joshh44
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Report this Post01-05-2009 05:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for joshh44Send a Private Message to joshh44Direct Link to This Post
removing the deck lid will help.
pretty much unplug everything that is attached to the engine and or will get in the way of removing the engine.
make sure you label everything so you dont forget where it goes.
i just did numbers and wrote on a sheet what the number is.
like example
plug #1 was to coolent temp sensor.

make any sence? i only removed the engine from the bottom.
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Bremertonfiero
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Report this Post01-05-2009 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BremertonfieroSend a Private Message to BremertonfieroDirect Link to This Post
take tape and mark all the conectors with numbers and coresponding to the numbers on the engine then unblot all the conctions to the cradle pop the axles get a hooist and lift away
thats all i can think of i have never done it
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thumper_64735
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Report this Post01-06-2009 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thumper_64735Send a Private Message to thumper_64735Direct Link to This Post
I pulled the engine in my 87 about a year ago when the timing gear went out of it. All I did was make sure that all electrical connetions are undone and labled. Remove decklid, remove starter, remove ACand let it hang. I also pulled the water pump and the exhaust manifold braket to make it easier to get to everything. I was actually under the car for about 45 minutes to undo the starter, exhaust, and AC. I was able to get to all my bolts and such from the top. If yours is an Auto, don't forget to take your torque converter lose. I was able to change the oil pan gasket and lower motor mount by just unbolting the front mount that has the (what I call) cradle, rasing the engine with a hoist, then moving it out of my way. I have pulled both an Auto and a manual through the top. I didn't have to do anything with axles, etc. here is a link that I found that explains it pretty good. It took me about an hour to get it out, and about the same to get it reinstalled.

http://www.ovis.net/~dmkfiero/topswap.html

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Hmmmmmmmmm.......now if I can just talk the Army out of an engine, I bet I can get it to fit hehehehehehe >

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The_Stickman2
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Report this Post01-06-2009 09:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for The_Stickman2Click Here to visit The_Stickman2's HomePageSend a Private Message to The_Stickman2Direct Link to This Post
Here is a tip. You need to deal with the engine mount that is right under the pulleys. Don't unbolt the mount from the engine as it is too hard to get all 4 bolts lined up. Unbolt the 2 bolts inside the mount to the motor mount.
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thumper_64735
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Report this Post01-06-2009 10:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thumper_64735Send a Private Message to thumper_64735Direct Link to This Post
Thanks stickman, I'll remeber that next time. I have always unbolted the mount from the engine, lol. I'll try it the next time I go to pull one out through the top. I does make since that it would be easier, about like pulling 1/2 the mount off a v6/v8 in a rwd.

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Hmmmmmmmmm.......now if I can just talk the Army out of an engine, I bet I can get it to fit hehehehehehe >

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