hey guys well i have a common problem the paint on my intake manifold of my 87 gt is and has been peeling for some time now just wanting some hints or tips on what kind of paint should i use? and are the intake manifold bolts tourqe to yield? or can i reuse them like regular ones. i was think about just gettin some of that duplicolor high heat gloss paint with a clear coat finish and paint it cherry red like stock. any sugestoins?
IP: Logged
11:21 PM
PFF
System Bot
Ramblin Man Member
Posts: 113 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: May 2007
I'm no pro, but I have had really good luck using aluminum wheel/ caliper paint with a topcoat of wheel clearcoat. It's really tough and looks great. I strip the part and wash it, then use starting fluid to remove any traces of grease, paint the parts, then stick them on the grill for twenty minutes to cure and aneal the paint. My parts come out looking like they were powder coated.
oh yeah i forgot to ask about that. the heating of it can i just use a regular household oven or what? should i follow my moms old recipies? preheat to 450 add paint let sit for 10 mins bake for 30 stick a toothpick in it and if it comes out clean its done? lol like how oes it work.
IP: Logged
11:34 PM
Dec 20th, 2008
Ramblin Man Member
Posts: 113 From: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Registered: May 2007
You can use the house oven, but if you have a gas grill I sugest you use that. Only because the next time you use the grill you will burn off any residual volitiles that offgas from the paint. I put my part on the grill over to one side and turn on the opposite burner. You don't want to cook the part, you want to heat it and the air around it evenly. Turn it on low and let it sit for twenty minutes that will bring it up to around 150-200 degrees then turn off the burner and open the lid and let it cool. Now that it's winter, just leave the lid down, unless you are in Florida or other warm place.
Once cured (on the Barbie as described above) it seems pretty tough although I haven't gotten the engine back in the car yet so cannot say for sure on durability. It has a wrinkle texture to it so it's not smooth.
Intake:
This pic of the rocker cover gives a better idea of what it actually looks like:
I used the regular VHT stuff on my intake and valve covers and it holds up great. I even had a stuck open EGR which made my intake scorching hot every time it was started and its still fine.
IP: Logged
12:42 PM
chrishahn87 Member
Posts: 1584 From: East Berlin, Pa - USA Registered: Dec 2004
I sand blasted the Fiero valve covers and intake plenum, then painted them using high temp engine paint (from Advance Auto) I believe it was Duplicolor paint. Use color "Ford engine red" it is the closest to the original color that I found.
Then take a razor and scrape the paint (after its dry) off of the raised flat part, and carefully wipe the aluminum clean with lacquer thinner. I have had better luck, and better results by NOT using clearcoat, so this time I did not use clear coat - and it still looks excellent!
I did not bake the paint, and everything turned out excellent. (if you prefer to bake, then by all means, bake away!)
IP: Logged
12:51 PM
falcon_ca Member
Posts: 1295 From: Chicoutimi, Quebec, Canada Registered: Dec 2007
Once cured (on the Barbie as described above) it seems pretty tough although I haven't gotten the engine back in the car yet so cannot say for sure on durability. It has a wrinkle texture to it so it's not smooth.
Intake:
This pic of the rocker cover gives a better idea of what it actually looks like:
the problem with this paint is that is only looks good until it gets an oil stain on it, which is hard to remove!
------------------ 1986 GT Fiero Owner & Enthusiast For Fiero updates, visit my site and don't forget visit our google ad sponsors http://educatorstop15.com/fieropage.htm
IP: Logged
10:17 PM
pswayne Member
Posts: 1282 From: Lawrenceville, GA USA Registered: Sep 2006
hey guys well i have a common problem the paint on my intake manifold of my 87 gt is and has been peeling for some time now just wanting some hints or tips on what kind of paint should i use? and are the intake manifold bolts tourqe to yield? or can i reuse them like regular ones. i was think about just gettin some of that duplicolor high heat gloss paint with a clear coat finish and paint it cherry red like stock. any sugestoins?
You can use ceramic paint as long as you do not paint the whole valve cover ,,you can paint the entire intake with ceramic,,..The ceramic paint retains heat .. this is good for intake ,,good for exhaust ..Not good for block,, heads or valve covers . I understand the ceramic paint is made for engines blocks and heads ,,BUT,, use some other heat resistance paint .. Oil cools the bottom end ///water cools the top end,,Ceramic paint retains heat.. Fiero engine compartments run hot give the engine all the help it needs !! heating with grill ,,oven ,space heater.furnace will work ,, you need to bring the first cure to 250o as uniform as you can get ,,ceramic is VERY tough if cured 200o to 300o the first time,,try to keep soot , smoke away from paint. If you can do first cure in hot sun ,, then 2nd cure at 250o or 300o you can finish on engine of course final cure should be uniform heat in oven ..Ive been experimenting with ceramic and it provides a much tougher surface ,,welding will melt the paint real close to the weld Buy a large deep baking aluminum pan they are like $1.00 to $2.50,,you can bake your intake manifold ot the exhaust manifolds,, you set the part in the pan cover tight with foil and cure at least 2 times,,you may have to roll the side edge of the pan up for the exhaust to fit ,, this will keep from destroying Oven with obnoxious fumes that fill my house ,,which is like a martian extraterrestrials funeral home..
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 12-20-2008).]
IP: Logged
10:40 PM
Dec 21st, 2008
David Allen Member
Posts: 18 From: Carson City, Nv. Registered: Dec 2008
Hi. I use PPG Concept color. It's good to 400 degrees. The above suggestion to bead or sandblast is a great suggestion. Another possibility would be to use an aluminum conversion coating under the color. It will allow the paint to stick better than sanding alone. There is also another coating available to allow clearcoating of polished aluminum. The clear is not as heat resistent as pigmented colors but will work especially well where heat is not such a factor.
IP: Logged
12:23 AM
R Runner Member
Posts: 3700 From: Scottsville, KY Registered: Feb 2003
I am painting mine right now (all the intake manifolds, timing chain cover and block/heads) with POR 15 high temp Engine Enamel. It is great stuff. The only issue I have is that I am brushing it on which means possibility of sags. I think I have it licked though. So far it looks great and I KNOW it is durable. I did a first attempt 2 weeks ago and was not happy so I took it back to the engine shop to have them dip it and sand blast it. They called me back asking what the #^#@$ I had painted it with because they could not get it off. It took over 3 hours with tanking, baking, and sand blasting. I have found that the POR 15 holds up better than anything else I have used. Much better than powder coating. I'll post pictures when I get a chance.
I use POR 15 on all of my swaybar arms and brackets that I sell (HHP) and after years of use under the car, they don't even have any signs of chipping or heavy wear.
I usually just use regular automotive paint anywhere on an engine except exhaust manifolds. Basecoat/ clearcoat works fine on valve covers and intakes. I used the wrinkle finish on my mopars valve covers. They are black though. While oil may be harder to get off of colors, just cleaning them with soap and water and a hose should be no problem...may need a bristle brush on spills but I dont see it as a problem. I generally use a coin pressure wash on my engines every few months anyway since I spend weekeds at car shows. I even use just regular Krylon on brake calipers and it lasts several years with no heat problem. I painted the calipers on my Magnum with Chrome Silver spray can paint in 04 and they still look fine with just a few minor stone chips on them after 4 years of year round use. I have narrow 5 spoke mags (like Torque Thrusts) so theyre very exposed.
IP: Logged
08:53 AM
leppy_89 Member
Posts: 757 From: Kettering, Ohio Registered: Nov 2007
so this is what im geting so far... sand balst it, prime it, paint it, clearcoat it maybe then bake in grill for an hour or so. sounds good any other suggestions are good stiil i want alot of info on it before i go and do since ive never done it before. dont want to screw it up.
IP: Logged
03:03 PM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
I usually just use regular automotive paint anywhere on an engine except exhaust manifolds. Basecoat/ clearcoat works fine on valve covers and intakes. I used the wrinkle finish on my mopars valve covers. They are black though. While oil may be harder to get off of colors, just cleaning them with soap and water and a hose should be no problem...may need a bristle brush on spills but I dont see it as a problem. I generally use a coin pressure wash on my engines every few months anyway since I spend weekeds at car shows. I even use just regular Krylon on brake calipers and it lasts several years with no heat problem. I painted the calipers on my Magnum with Chrome Silver spray can paint in 04 and they still look fine with just a few minor stone chips on them after 4 years of year round use. I have narrow 5 spoke mags (like Torque Thrusts) so theyre very exposed.
I remember I had this question about 2 years ago and you recommended base and clear so I painted mine along with the valve covers the same cover as my exterior and they still look great! I've had alot of painting questions over the years and roger's advice has always worked for me.
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 12-21-2008).]