just take a channel locks & turn the piston to where you need it. make sure to turn it so it rotates inward, not outward. after installation, the use of the emergency brake will re adjust the brakes.
just take a channel locks & turn the piston to where you need it. make sure to turn it so it rotates inward, not outward. after installation, the use of the emergency brake will re adjust the brakes.
what are channel-locks? where can I get them?
nevermind, i searched google for them and I actually have a pair of them... not sure how I would turn it with those though, I don't think there is enough wall of the piston for me to grab onto.
[This message has been edited by mgiusto (edited 11-08-2008).]
with the pads out, remove the CLIP that hold the pads in place,(you turn it, & it slips off the piston when it gets to the slots). there will be about 1/8" of piston sticking out from the dust boot. watch the piston as you turn it to see if it's going in or out. you want it to turn inward. I just did 2 rear sets yesterday, it's easy.
with the pads out, remove the CLIP that hold the pads in place,(you turn it, & it slips off the piston when it gets to the slots). there will be about 1/8" of piston sticking out from the dust boot. watch the piston as you turn it to see if it's going in or out. you want it to turn inward. I just did 2 rear sets yesterday, it's easy.
Lou, I need serious help now... I was able to turn it so it lined up 12 & 6, but noticed the piston was out to far for the rotor to fit between the 2 pads. I pushed the e-brake swing arm and that pushed the piston out more, I pushed the e-brake swing arm back and the piston did not go back in as much. Now the piston is out way too far. I tried to use a c-clamp to push the piston back in, but it won't budge. Is there an easy way to get the piston back in almost flush? I hope i didn't really screw this thing up!
[This message has been edited by mgiusto (edited 11-08-2008).]
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07:01 PM
Primaris Member
Posts: 550 From: Oak Grove, KY USA Registered: Aug 2001
You are suppose to use a tool that fits into the small recess in the piston to twist the piston back in flush. Part stores sell them for about $10 or you can use their loaner program.
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07:28 PM
spark1 Member
Posts: 11159 From: Benton County, OR Registered: Dec 2002
See Ogre's cave. Ogre says you shouldn't compress the piston on an 88, it takes a brake spanner that fits into the notches to rotate the piston in.
I never found a problem in compressing the 88 piston the same way as previous years. Just take the parking brake lever off the back of the caliper and compress the piston with a C-clamp. Works fine on the 88 too. Once the piston is in you may need the tool to line up the notches but usually they go straight back into the caliper.
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07:34 PM
Tom Slick Member
Posts: 4342 From: Alvarado, TX Registered: May 2003
i tried to use one of the cube tools and had little luck. you can you a c-clamp but you have to be very very careful. you also need to take off the ebrake lever off the back of the capiler put a socket over the ebrake bolt and you should be able to retract the piston with the c-clamp. that's how i did it not too long ago.
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07:35 PM
solotwo Member
Posts: 5374 From: Grand Rapids, MI. USA Registered: Jun 2002
Here is what the inside of the caliper looks like. The e-brake arm is connected to a helix, when you activate the e-brake it rotates the arm and thus the helix. The helix screws into the caliper piston which is locked to the pad with the two nubs and slots. Since the helix turns and the piston doesn't, the screw pushes the piston out and presses the pad against the rotor.
What you have to do whenever doing any brake pad replacement with this kind of arrangement is "screw" the piston back down that helix, thus retracting the piston far enough for the thicker new replacement pads to fit. Now, you can do this by either turning the piston so that it screws back down the helix, or you can remove the ebrake arm from the caliper and then push the piston straight in. Removing the arm allows the helix to rotate as the piston pushes down the helix.
The key thing to remember is that the left and right sides have opposite twists on the helix, so you need to make sure you turn it so that it retracts the piston. It is possible to use channel lock pliers, also known generically as water pump pliers, but it's not recommended because it damages the metal edge of the piston and that increases the risk of damaging the piston boot. The tool that is designed to turn the piston in is a cube with various pins on each face and a 3/8" hole for a standard ratchet and extension in the center. They are commonly available from any auto parts store and are fairly inexpensive.
Keep in mind to use that tool on the 88 you will probably have to dissemble the two caliper halves. The outer half of an 88 caliper gets directly in the way of using a socket wrench with that adapter.
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11:26 AM
TiredGXP Member
Posts: 712 From: A cold, miserable place Registered: Jan 2008
I've been struggling with the passenger side rear caliper for about an hour today. Guess I'll try the "remove the parking brake bolt and use a c-clamp" method and see what happens.
all you have to do is be pressing on the piston & turning it in the correct direction. it will move back in when you turn it , IF you are turning in the right direction. you CAN buy the special tool (otherwise known a a "PIN WRENCH"), but you still have to press on the piston while you turn it.
don't remove the arm, or disconnect the cable ( you're making more work for yourself.) just screw the piston back in while pressing on it , (actually, it has to go back in even not pressing on it) & making sure the ARM IS NOT TURNING WITH IT.
Just to relate my experiences from doing my brakes yesterday. The rear piston has the helix socket inside it, but that helix socket is in a sort of a clutch assembly, it's not just machined into the back of the piston. My driver's side piston's clutch assembly is slipping inside the piston, meaning that turning the piston had no effect whatsoever since the socket wasn't turning with the piston. I had to take the arm off and use a C-clamp with a socket over the arm stud to push the piston back in.
Yes, you have to take the bridge off to use the turn-in tool but I find that removing the bridge is uber-easy and makes servicing the brakes a breeze. Don't forget to disassemble the sliders and re-lube them with Sylglide synthetic brake grease. Don't use ordinary grease because it can damage the rubber boots, making them impossible to reinstall. NAPA stocks Sylglide in a 4oz tube for a very reasonable price.
Hey all, this thread will make for good use for anyone having rear brake problems! You all had very good ideas in helping solve the problem!
I wound up getting the tool but only using it after I pushed the piston back with a c-clamp and a socket over the ebrake lever screw.
Everything went easy-peasy and problem solved! Thanks so much for all the advice!
I've added some pics of the car to my web album that has been posted here before. I will keep adding to this web album, so if you are interested keep a bookmark of it in your browser and check back from time to time... http://picasaweb.google.com/mgiusto/FieroGT
