OK,
Car died coming off the highway today. Of course i just cleaned out the trunk so I had no tools with me. A buddy stopped by to pick me up and I did check the spark directly from the coil. When the engine is cranked i get a so-so spark for a second and then nothing. If i crank the engine again without waiting, i get nothing but if i wait a few seconds I get the same weak spark and then nothing. Any ideas on exactly what is wrong? Thanks in advance...
Tony

My bet is on the ignition module, (IM), in the distributor.

Consensus here is to replace it with a GM module as an aftermarket will most likely leave you stranded again as they don't seem to be as reliable as GM IM's.

Steve

Another thought, when the car cools down it may run for a short period of time allowing you to drive it home or until the IM gets too hot, heat is the IM killer.

Remember to use heat sink compound when installing a new IM.

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Where will the road take you today?

Some helpful links I've done
How to remove inner door panels, with pics.
How to remove outer door panels, with pics.
How to make rear coil-overs using factory struts, with pics.
How to remove rear bearing hubs, with pics.
How to modify the stock Fiero radio for MP3 players, with pics.
How to come up with the right coolant hoses for that engine swap...With Pics.
Basic Fiero electrical testing "How To" and equipment...with pics.

[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 10-27-2008).]

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing about it working until it heats up again as i was writing the original post. It's pretty cool up here on Long Island and I drove the car for about 23 miles at 60-70 mph before it died. Does anyone think it could be the pickup?

The pickup is usualley replaced at the same time as the ignition modual.I've heard the the magnet at the base of the pickup cracks from engine heat and should come with the new pickup (mark the distributor location).You might try starting the car as fierohoho says and drive it home.I agree,I think its the Ignition modual.(The coil pack is heavey duety,so I dont think its that).

well,
Thanks for all the help guys, it turns out to be much worse than the ignition module. When I got back to the car last evening, I didn't like the way it sounded as it cranked, there didn't seem to be any compression. I removed the oil cap and peered inside, the valvetrain is not moving as it cranks. Since I didn't hear any noises right before the engine lost all power, I am hoping that I chewed off a couple of the phenolic teeth on the cam gear or the keyway on the crank sheared. I don't thing the cam broke. I will be opening it up this weekend. Well, it's was gonna come off the road for the winter anyway...

It's probably your cam gear that's chewed. BTW, do you happen to have an automatic transmission in the car? I hear the gears get chewed more often on those cars than on standard transmission cars.

No, Its a muncie and it happened when i was completely off the accelerator. I'm probably gonna go with the phenolic gear, it's way cheaper than the steel set, almost 5 times less.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. good luck on the fix

Tony. Look at the good side. The Duke is not an interference engine so it is likely that nothing got damaged. The other positive point is that the original timing gears lasted 20 years and xxx,xxx miles. You can replace the gear set in about a days time and be back on the road that evening, Just make sure that when you replace the gears you do a good job of removing all of the broken gear pieces and the crud. I believe that the phenolic gears are acceptable ( name brand set like AC Delco not Chinese) and that you'll get another 20 years use.

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87GT - 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I looked up the TSB from GM regarding the cam gear and the method for changing the gear without removing the camshaft. I have access to Mitchell and I only have a hard copy at the moment. Ogre mentioned this TSB in his cave, it has to do with drilling and tapping a hole in the center of the cam gear and also drilling and tapping two holes in the cam gear. These two holes are for attaching a puller and the other hole in the cam gear is for installing the new gear using a bolt to pull it onto the camshaft. According to the TSB the labor time is about 6 hours, will probably take a bit longer without a lift. The idea is to drop the rear of the cradle low enough to work through the wheelwell. I am going to copy the document to a pdf and pass it along to Orief, perhaps he will add it to his cave. It seems that this is going to be a popular subject for guys running a Duke since age may play as big a role in the cam gear failing now that our cars are starting to hit the 25 year mark.

quote Originally posted by TONY_C: I looked up the TSB from GM regarding the cam gear and the method for changing the gear without removing the camshaft. I have access to Mitchell and I only have a hard copy at the moment. Ogre mentioned this TSB in his cave, it has to do with drilling and tapping a hole in the center of the cam gear and also drilling and tapping two holes in the cam gear. These two holes are for attaching a puller and the other hole in the cam gear is for installing the new gear using a bolt to pull it onto the camshaft. According to the TSB the labor time is about 6 hours, will probably take a bit longer without a lift. The idea is to drop the rear of the cradle low enough to work through the wheelwell. I am going to copy the document to a pdf and pass it along to Orief, perhaps he will add it to his cave. It seems that this is going to be a popular subject for guys running a Duke since age may play as big a role in the cam gear failing now that our cars are starting to hit the 25 year mark.

The method that you describe is a legitimate one but I'm not sure how it would work on a phenolic cam gear. I've used it with a heavy duty forged steering wheel puller and some 3/16" bolts but to pull steel pulleys on the large mower deck that sits below my tractor. However, this method usually works for removal only. Pulled gears pulleys and the like must be pressed back on. You will most likely need a hydraulic press to install the gear properly. Removing the cam is only another hour or two worth of work so you might want to do it the way that the manual says

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87GT - 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Dennis,
I made one small error in my previous post. I said to drill/tap one hole in the center of the cam gear, I meant the center of the camshaft. This is to pull the new gear on. I have a question though, is the entire cam gear made of phenolic fiber or is it like sbc cam gears where the center section is steel and just the teeth are "plastic"? It's been 20 years since I had a duke opened up and I couldn't even remember it was a phenolic gear so I'm not sure but I suspect the teeth are phenolic and not the entire gear.

The gear is a metal center with a "plastic" gear.

Here's a pic, it's upside down on an engine stand.

Steve