So, just placed my order to the fiero store for my parts:

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFT KIT
AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID
STAINLESS STEEL METAL BRAKE LINE SET
STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED BRAKE HOSE SET (3/4)

So, heres the fun part, installing it all
I have allready replaced most of my calipers and pads
I have 1 stainless steel hose on my rear left wheel (had a blow out)
I also replaced the master cylinder (wrecked it when the line blew)
and i have had a nightmate bleeding my brake system endlessly to get out bubbles or water

So, i decided to just replace the rust covered lines and the spongey hoses with Stainless Steel ones

My transmission solenoid does not like heat, and after a race driving home my car gets HOT
It keeps sticking so i decided to replace the solenoid and filter, while i am at it i am going to install a "shift kit" (not too much more money)
and do a nice clean fluid fill

I am a novice when it comes to cars as most of you know i ask alot of questions,
I am not ready to do work yet but when it comes time to do it id like to know what all i need to look out for
Any hints tips Problems you might have had would be helpfull

I will as allways try to take as many pictures as possible and document the process to help everyone else out
So, in the meantime feel free to post links to any guides or info you might have for me

Thank you,
Michael


P.S. the pennocks discount saved me about $32

[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 10-10-2008).]

Hey, just really quick, in terms of brake bleeding, this is what I've done, and has worked well for me.

If you've got a weekend where not much is going on, and you're in no rush (that never seems to happen anymore), this is what I did: basically, I would disconnect a line and hook a clear tube up to it. I bought one of those brake bleeding kits... basically nothing more than a cup and a long piece of clear plastic tubing. I would fill the cup up slightly with brake fluid, and then hook one end of the tube up to the caliper bleeder, and then the other end would go into the cup. I then open up the cap on the brake master cyl. I would give it a quick pump of the brakes, and the fluid would start to come out. It takes a while, but if you just let it sit there, the fluid will basically drain from the master cyl, into the cup. As it drains, it will take any air that's in the system with it and you'll see bubbles coming down the tube in the fluid. It was AMAZING to me how much air I had in the system (always was a bit spongy).

You just have to make sure you keep an eye open on the brake master cyl since you don't want the fluid to run empty (otherwise you have to start over).

Ideally, you would pump out and replace all the fluid that's in the reservoir, and replace it with fresh fluid. As the fluid drains out, just keep replacing it with new fresh fluid.

Do this step for all 4 wheels, and your brakes are totally bled.


Note: There is also a hand-pump you can get if you don't feel like sitting around for 3 hours... hahah....

------------------
Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Convt. (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1981 EZ-GO Xi875-A "Miami Dolphins" Medical Cart
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 350

You'll need a transmission side-cover gasket too. Advance Auto should have them. Fishing out and connecting the wiring tends to be the most difficult part of the solenoid swap. Jack up that side, and remove the wheel and wheel well liner to improve access. Have fun!

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Hey, just really quick, in terms of brake bleeding, this is what I've done, and has worked well for me. If you've got a weekend where not much is going on, and you're in no rush (that never seems to happen anymore), this is what I did: basically, I would disconnect a line and hook a clear tube up to it. I bought one of those brake bleeding kits... basically nothing more than a cup and a long piece of clear plastic tubing. I would fill the cup up slightly with brake fluid, and then hook one end of the tube up to the caliper bleeder, and then the other end would go into the cup. I then open up the cap on the brake master cyl. I would give it a quick pump of the brakes, and the fluid would start to come out. It takes a while, but if you just let it sit there, the fluid will basically drain from the master cyl, into the cup. As it drains, it will take any air that's in the system with it and you'll see bubbles coming down the tube in the fluid. It was AMAZING to me how much air I had in the system (always was a bit spongy). You just have to make sure you keep an eye open on the brake master cyl since you don't want the fluid to run empty (otherwise you have to start over). Ideally, you would pump out and replace all the fluid that's in the reservoir, and replace it with fresh fluid. As the fluid drains out, just keep replacing it with new fresh fluid. Do this step for all 4 wheels, and your brakes are totally bled. Note: There is also a hand-pump you can get if you don't feel like sitting around for 3 hours... hahah....

i have done this and i like the results grab a case or 2 of your choice beverage and you should be good to go. the tcc soloniod is a fun job all and all shouldent take long to do all 3 bad thing for me was my trans was on its way out and i thought it was the solonoid but it wasent. the shift kit will improve shifting but thats only if your trans is not worn.

I did the shift kit about 2 weeks ago. Not difficult at all. Watch out for the little check balls falling out and rolling across the floor to points unknown. There are 6 total and 5 are located on the trans side of the valve body gasket/plate/gasket combo. All 5 stayed put when removing the valve body even with the car jacked up evenly in the back. The 6th ball is between the valve body and the gasket/plate/gasket combo. That is the one that almost got away because I had the valve body on the workbench when I peeled the gasket off. Just be aware.

The other thing I would recommend is a drain plug for the pan. They are in the help section at Advance, et al. Helps to weld it in but not totally required.

Well, i have bleed my brakes with all new synthetic fluid when i had the issued with blowing a line and replacing calipers, But i expect this to be quite different
My plan is to replace the connectors under the MC Then replace the longest line and bleed then replace #2 longest and so on
When i hace my friend come over the help me bleed brakes i think ill owe him some beers lol

As far as the trans goes, i have NEVER opened one so i dont even know what ill be looking at (lol)

The shift kit comes with both gaskets i need for the side and bottom (acording to fierostore on the tele)

My trans locks up after im done racing on hot days and i get on a freeway
when i go to stop back in town the trans is stuck with the TCC engaged
So it wont release at lights I ended up getting stuck in down town detroit like this once and probably massed the trans a bit by reving and droping into first

How would i install a drain plug? (i dont have welding kit)

If this doesnt work i will just have to get a 3800 and gtp trans

[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 10-04-2008).]

always a first for evertything ive never messed with a trans and im about to have a one on one event here

Is it safe to assume that this is a V6? The reason I ask is that 86 and later duke auto trans had mono-mount trans that gets in the way of taking the end pan off.

Sorry yeah, its a 85 sport (v6)
I got my box of parts, I will probably put it on the stands tomorow and look at how to do the brake lines

Now all i need to know is "where do i start"?

quote Originally posted by 2farnorth: Is it safe to assume that this is a V6? The reason I ask is that 86 and later duke auto trans had mono-mount trans that gets in the way of taking the end pan off.

Yea, that mount is a pain in the @#$!!! I am getting ready to do the shift kit on my 88 duke myself, and not really looking forward to it...

I would like to see the results of your shift kit install though antinull, will be watching this thread. Good luck with everything.

Well, We just got the OK about the condo we are going to be moving into, so this project needs to be completed by probably the end of november

So, looks like ive got some dented coolant lines... some idiot jacked the car up completly missing the jack point and hit plastic and dented the coolant pipe...
::sigh::

quote Originally posted by antinull.com: So, looks like ive got some dented coolant lines... some idiot jacked the car up completly missing the jack point and hit plastic and dented the coolant pipe... ::sigh::

It depends on how bad they are dented. If they aren't restricting half the flow I wouldn't worry about it, just try it as is . I've had some dented ones on my coupe for 3 years without any problems.

They have been like that as i jack from the front/rear
Im not too worried about it but my car has been having some overheating problems

I am finished YAY, oh wait! it needs fluid!!! lol
Im going to pick up some synthetic fluid and get someone to help me bleed her

Is it safe to have someone in the car when its on stands?

Pictures
Before: (2 years ago when i bought the car)
rear only



After: (2 years of suspension and brakes)

[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 10-12-2008).]

Id hate to make a new thread just to ask about bleeding a dry system...
any help?

I live in a crashpad in Wayne just south of you if you need an extra pair of hands.

I work in wayne, wayne rd and michigan ave. area

I could use some help bleeding the system and checking for leaks, i know these brass washers tend to leak a bit

cant remember what i did last time to get them to stop

Crashpad near Howe and Van Born, across from the open area on John Street. Very quiet.

I had to clean everything to get the leaks to stop. Any little dirt makes room for fluid to get out.

thats cool let me know if you can come by and help me bleed brakes

still nothing acomplished, don't have anyone to help me bleed brakes...

I hope your master cylinder hasn't gone completely dry!
Try this: (Gravity bleed) Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Close all but your left rear bleeder, raise the front of the car so the master cylinder is higher than the brake line that goes across the trunks front wall. Wait for the fluid to start coming out the bleeder on the left rear. KEEP THE MASTER RESIVOIR FULL It may take quite a while. When the fluid comes out close that bleeder. Move around to right rear brake and open that bleeder. Once again await the fluid to come out. After it does close that bleeder and move to the right front wheel and do it. Do the left front wheel last. Remember to keep the master cylinder full.

There is a faster and better way to do it with plastic tube and two bottles of brake fluid, but I'd need pics to explain it. I'll search and see if I can find a thread about it.

Found a thread that discribes it, but haven't found the one with pics https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/086404.html

[This message has been edited by 2farnorth (edited 10-15-2008).]

im not sure if the MC went dry or not
I did have to remove the hoses
Its a new MC and i am not afraid of re-bench-bleeding it if i have to but i dont know what i did with those plugs they give you
I did remove most of the fluid from the resovoir
and took hoses off the MC

will this gravity bleed work with empty lines?

Ill give it a try tonight sence i dont have a helper yet

[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 10-16-2008).]

It should work with empty lines, just takes a long time. After you get them running with gravity you should bleed them standard way. The second method that is in that link is much faster and doesn't require a helper.

i bought one of those vaccume pumps/ bleed kits from harbor freight, i guess i could just put vaccume on the line and pump away right?
Or would vaccume its self just pull fluid?

You can just pump it up to about 20 inches and let it draw. After it drops down pump it back up again. Repeat as necesary. Make sure you keep the resivoir topped off. Pumping it higher won't hurt anything that I'm aware of though. You may have to put some teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder screws to keep air from sucking by the threads. Make sure you follow the pattern of LR, RR, RF and LF. Always go from the furtherest (line length) to the closest. After you get them all bled the first time check how your brake pedal feels. If it's spongy or fades down ward after being pumped up then you still have air in the system (or a leak)

Yeah thats what the problem WAS
so ive got a full resovoir and a bottle of synthetic fluid
lets hope new lines/hoses fix my issues

Ill give it a try mabey this weekend

anyone have info about installing the shift kit? i have no idea how those work

friend came over and we quickly bleed the brake lines
brakes work and i get a fairly firm pedal, im sure i can find loose fittings and airbubbles but this is good enough to get me to my new place

found a couple small leaks, tightened fittings and sinched crush washers again
My peddle pumps but doesnt stay all of the way up and sinks a little bit with alot of pressure, so im going to wait a day and check for more leaks and then bleed for air bubbles
but at this point, the peddle is alot firmer then the old ones

I couldnt find any leaks at fittings and i was pumping the brakes ALOT, is there any reason the peddle would still sink with pressure after pumped up?

got my replacement line last night
the one they sent were not the right one for the passenger side front on my car