All of mine are rusted into the sleeves of the rubber, is there ANY better way besides cutting thru them with a saw-zaw, im going thru 20 dollar packs of blades really fast on em....
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11:56 PM
PFF
System Bot
Sep 11th, 2008
tjm4fun Member
Posts: 3781 From: Long Island, NY USA Registered: Feb 2006
Either a thin cutoff wheel in an angle grinder, or get the right blades. Get the carbide grit covered blades, and a couple large cans of wd40 to spray on the blade while cutting. You should be able to cut both sides of 1 bolt with 1 blade and the start of another. The hacksaw type blades are not meant to cut hardened metal and will blunt right off. the carbide grit blades will cut them, but you need to keep the speed down a little and use some lubrication so you dont clog the grit.
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12:37 AM
dizmon_85GT Member
Posts: 377 From: Knoxville, IL USA Registered: Aug 2001
I'm doing a youtube video of removing my control arms right now. (Can't let Buddycraigg have all the fun) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hp_sG7cfKU I alway use an air chisel. You take the nut loose and flip it over on the bolt so you protect the bolt . Take some WD or PB and the air chisel and rattle on the nut and the bolt will back right out.
It's works on cradle bushing as well at control arms.
If you have access to some air it's the best $20 you will spend. I just took out my control arms to replace the bushings. Took about 20 sec. for each bolt.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 09-12-2008).]
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09:16 AM
CTFieroGT87 Member
Posts: 2520 From: Royal Oak, MI Registered: Oct 2002
Thats a great idea Dodgerunner. I've had success with rusted sleeves with this method.
1. Burn bushing out. 2. Rotate bolt/sleeve around until you can see the seam of the sleeve. 3. Take a center punch and hammer it into the sleeve (on both ends of the sleeve by moving the control arm fore and aft) 4. Eventually you will open that seem up, possibly using a flat head screwdriver or prybar once you have it started.
Finally it will release the inner bolt.
------------------ Christian 87 Pontiac Fiero GT Burgandy/Silver 5.7L ZZ4 5spd, 88 suspension, C6 polished wheels, C5 Z06 brakes, Konis, poly'd, Spec Stg 3, LED taillights Next Mod: LT1 fuel injection with Megasquirt II 301rwhp/345rwtq Stovebolt Powered!!!!! 06 Cobalt SS/SC w/ LSD (the slow DD)
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10:40 AM
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8872 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
I tried doing the nut on and hitting with hammer but theirs limited room to swing the hammer. Also tried wedging a pry bar under the bolt head. Let me tell you, I beat on that thing until I could not swing the hammer any more. I went down to my neighbors and we used his torch with me spraying water to stop any fires and cut the bolt head off.
Well the building this car is in doesnt have access to the air tools. I really dont want to use the gas torch in such a confined area for the front suspension.
The carbine grit blades work for this? The package said they were for specialty (fiberglass, etc)...
I just bought 2 "Fire and Rescue" HD blades 14tpi with no luck over the standard blades.
I hit and pried and cussed for days and thats when the torch came out and it was done in 3 mins. I just kept a garden hose in my hand and as the other guy cut I would mist the fenderwell a little now and then. Good luck!!!
[This message has been edited by dizmon_85GT (edited 09-11-2008).]
I hit and pried and cussed for days and thats when the torch came out and it was done in 3 mins. I just keeped a garden hose in my hand and as the other guy cut I would mist the fenderwell a little now and then. Good luck!!!
Yup I ended up torching them what a job,
of course the gas was low and it was about a 40 minute job a arm, but its done and I AM NEVER DOING THEM AGAIN lol
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09:11 PM
fieroguru Member
Posts: 12639 From: Champaign, IL Registered: Aug 2003
I've had success with rusted sleeves with this method.
1. Burn bushing out. 2. Rotate bolt/sleeve around until you can see the seam of the sleeve. 3. Take a center punch and hammer it into the sleeve (on both ends of the sleeve by moving the control arm fore and aft) 4. Eventually you will open that seem up, possibly using a flat head screwdriver or prybar once you have it started.
Finally it will release the inner bolt.
x2
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09:50 PM
Fierology Member
Posts: 1209 From: Eastern Tennessee Registered: Dec 2006
I've heard of and used electric impact wrenches. Anything out there on electric "air hammers/chisels" sorry for the oxymoron. hahah don't know what else to call it. I already have a pneumatic system, but for those who don't such a tool may be really useful for projects like this one.
-Michael
------------------ "A guy know's he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen
Thats a great idea Dodgerunner. I've had success with rusted sleeves with this method.
1. Burn bushing out. 2. Rotate bolt/sleeve around until you can see the seam of the sleeve. 3. Take a center punch and hammer it into the sleeve (on both ends of the sleeve by moving the control arm fore and aft) 4. Eventually you will open that seem up, possibly using a flat head screwdriver or prybar once you have it started.
Finally it will release the inner bolt.
This is how I handle them, works well.
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10:31 PM
Sep 12th, 2008
tjm4fun Member
Posts: 3781 From: Long Island, NY USA Registered: Feb 2006
Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98: The carbine grit blades work for this? The package said they were for specialty (fiberglass, etc)...
While I prefer lennox blades for most work, the blades I used were: Milwaukee 6" tungston carbide course. pn 48-00-1420 recommended for cutting cast iron, stainless steel, fiberglass, ceramic tile, stone, etc.
I should have been more specific, didn;t realize I still had the blades in the sawzall box. they will cut the bolts. maybe not the sleeves tho. I spread the mounting area so I could acess the bolts to cut them.
As to the air chisel method mentione, be very careful!!!!!!!! I;ve had more sleeves blow right thru the mounts on the frame than had the bolts driven out of them. if this happens, you have to weld in new mounts to the frame, not a job for most people.
Been there. PBJ came by and gave me a hand with this. He had to get in there with a punch and split the sleaves to get the bolts out. I had to puch in new bushings, and made sure I coated the bolts with antiseaze this time.
They are not easy to get at and I shudder at having to do them again.
------------------ Jay Brintnell Southern Ontario Fiero Association Yellow 85 Notchback(A.K.A. GodFearN)
What about the rear cradle control arm bolts? I can't seem to get those off...
I had issues with those as well, not as much as the front which is why i made this thread. But I was able to saw the rear bolts off with the saw-zaw and some 14tpi blades, just not cheap blades.
