And.....we bring out the Jigsaw, Dremmel tool and start hacking again

On your marks...


Go...




One of the biggest problems of this setup is the VERY limited clearance between the top of the Fiero upper plenum and the decklid skin. As you can see, it's just under 3".


As planed, the air box will have to be partly inside the Indy scoop.




Clearing some room out of the decklid for the air tube


As always if things could go the wrong way they will definitely go that way
The air outlet reaches just above the intake cable linkage, so I'll have to do some more maneuver with the air tube.
One of them is "modifying" the intake cables bracket so it's less '"in the way" i.e rotating it 90* down.


So, another step forward, but still to solve is the horrible path of the air tube...
What kind of tube, and what path to take it?...

To be continued...

Thanks to Matt for his help in this project.

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 11-01-2008).]

A pic from the wreck-yard, this was the "willing" doner of the air box - A Ford Ranger XL that have seen better days




The original filter is a Fram CA3660


~~~

Thanks to fierosound I've got some honeycomb metal mesh to cover the scoop inlet


Cut and ready for fitment


On a side note: As I was going up the elevator with the Indy scoop under my arm, a neighbor got on and asked
"Oh, whats that ?"
and without blinking I replied
"It's a musical instrument...I just stick my head here (as I demonstrate) and go...OHHHAAAHHAHAAA..."
And he goes...
"Oh, cool!!! how is it called ?...."
LMAO...

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 11-05-2008).]

heh funny, nice work, keep the updates coming

Some good progress today

Started off by using the Dremel tool to create a proper edge (about 3-4mm) to hold the metal mesh in place.




And...Voila it fits.
The mesh still has some surface rust on it...


Nothing that a bit of spray paint can't fix


And while the paint drys, it's time to install the setup in the engine bay.

This is a temporary (?) setup using a heater hose I found at http://www.greenlinehose.com



The best thing about this hose is it's ability to make tight corners, and it bends very good.

As you can see it is a 2.5" I.D rubber reinforced with a metal wire and good upto 135*C / 275*F
This is why I've got an insulating tape - Cool Tape to prevent this thing from melting above the header. There are other more efficient heat protectors, but nothing I've seen would clear in the small space available and maintain the hose flexibility like this tape.





O.K...Start her up... LOL


The new setup in place.


I had to use some heater duct to protect the rubber hose above the Y-pipe heat shield, but I hope to find a better solution for this.
The clearance behind and under to the Isuzu shifter cables is also very tight.


Time to throw on the K&N filter - It's the 33-2087panel filter.




Still to find is a plastic frame to hold the filter down in place.

I've started the car and let it idle for a while...
- It works
- The intake sound is LOUD (cant wait to hear it through the Indy scoop, it's gonna be like Darth Vader on steroids)
- No problems to report so far...
I'll have to complete the setup and test drive it to see what's what.
I predict the restrictions in the air flow might reduce performance, but that is yet to be tested.

Looking good.

Although I've never been a big fan of the indy scoop. Just doesn't look right to me. If I were to do it, I would take the rear panel off and make a stationary scoop built into it that worked its way down to the fastback panels and into the engine bay. Then I would put a vent in the rear of the decklid to allow air to move out. Just my $.02. I don't think it would be THAT hard either.

When I take my car off the road and do my custom wide body kit I'll probably try to tackle that task. Problem is that I have a sunroof car and I'd want a coupe for it to look right.

quote Originally posted by 85fiero_fanat:I would take the rear panel off and make a stationary scoop built into it that worked its way down to the fastback panels and into the engine bay. Then I would put a vent in the rear of the decklid to allow air to move out. Just my $.02. I don't think it would be THAT hard either.

So you are talking about some custom build scoop for cooling EH? it sounds like a FB version of the Fi-Air-O scoops. Keep us posted

Are you adding the hinge at the opening of the scoop? The one that attaches to the top of the roof.
just wondering.....seems that if so you will need to reinforce the lip of the spoiler to handle the stress. Just a thought before you attach the mesh.

quote Originally posted by revin: Are you adding the hinge at the opening of the scoop? The one that attaches to the top of the roof.

I wish I could replicate the "proper" Indy scoop hinge system, but I don't have the hardware to do that.
My scoop is the "Ver. 2" that came after the original Indy scoops. It has the hinge at the back and a latch at the front.

Thanks.

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 11-07-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Mister: So you are talking about some custom build scoop for cooling EH? it sounds like a FB version of the Fi-Air-O scoops. Keep us posted

Will do. Probably won't start it until Next spring, but I'll be making a post on here about it.

Front fenders will stick out a couple more inches on each side with vents in the rear of them for the brakes. The rear fenders will be like 3 inches wider on each side (maybe more not sure) with vents that lead into the engine bay. The doors will be in the stock spots. The ground effects will start out as wide as the front fender curve into the door and back out to the rear fender. No more pop up headlights. I'll be putting projector headlights in that wrap around with the front. The new front end will be kinda like that of the S2000. I'll be making my own hood scoop for the radiator also. Probably just try to make it look like an NSX. How's it sound?

Sorry if I'm hijacking your thread, just trying to get some tips or hints from someone who's already done it. I can delete this post after you give a response if you want.

quote Originally posted by 85fiero_fanat: just trying to get some tips or hints from someone who's already done it.

I have not done any major body work B4 so I'm not an expert LOL

Your plan sounds good, and I hope it would work the way you imagine it Nothing like dreaming up a project and making it happen EH!
That's what I love about these cars.

any news or pics?

Quick question......love this thread by the way......anybody know where to get the mounting plate, hinge, and front clamp? I got a scoop without any hardware.

Thanks

quote Originally posted by JesseM: any news or pics?

Was away for a few days, the scoop should go back on the car tomorrow

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: Quick question......love this thread by the way......anybody know where to get the mounting plate, hinge, and front clamp? I got a scoop without any hardware. Thanks

Try Doug at www.fierowarehouse.com - he sells the scoop and hardware, I hope he'll sell you just the hardware.

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: Did you consider trying to cut the top section (just below the retaining clamps) of the original F**d air-box? This should let you seal the filter in place and retain it at the same time. Just a thought.

Thanks. Yes, I had that in mind.
I hope that car is still at the wreck-yard, or else it's going to be a while finding another one...

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 11-11-2008).]

Tomorrow has arrived (Where is my PIP shortcut.... LOL)

Insulation foam tape

I know it would be better to have the tape on the scoop side, however there is zero clearance between the scoop edge and the air box so it would peel off.





The mesh looks awesome!!!


Here is a quick video with my camera...



Later today I'll go for a test drive and see how is goes and sounds. If everything goes in a flame this might be my last post...

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 11-12-2008).]

Nice work, now that's going to be loud when you have the t-tops out. Make sure any woman with long hair ties it up before getting in your car or she'll be having a Flowbee haircut like Garth did in Waynes World! LOL

------------------

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: Does anyone have an idea what this lens is from? I would love to incorporate that into my scoop!

I know it's not a match, but it reminds me a lot of the Kawasaki Ninja ZX10 tail light:
http://www.d2moto.com/Items/TL005-Smoke

I know that lens, I just can't put my finger on it... yet...

quote Originally posted by fieroboom: I know it's not a match, but it reminds me a lot of the Kawasaki Ninja ZX10 tail light: http://www.d2moto.com/Items/TL005-Smoke I know that lens, I just can't put my finger on it... yet...

The lens in the scoop you've seen is on the 86 Turbo prototype hence I doubt it's from a modern bike. However that's a very interesting idea. Thank you

~~~

And in other news...I took the Fiero for a test drive on the outskirts of Calgary...
The results are not bad:
- No significant lose of power nor responce that I can immidiatly feel
- No immediate heat problems with the air tube.
- The intake hissing sound from inside the car is barely noticeable (over the muffler)
- Heads where turned around town

Problems:
- The friction between the bottom of the air tube and the upper plenum is scraping the paint off of the plenum and leaving some marks in the tube (could develop a hole)
- The throttle cable locking clip got stuck in the shifter cable and I had to tie the cables back from it.





That's it for now.

Mister I was wondering where you purchased said scoop. I might try this myself.....Hmmmm...

quote Originally posted by Curlrup: Mister I was wondering where you purchased said scoop. I might try this myself.....Hmmmm...

Hey Curlrup, as you can see above, the best source for this scoop now it the www.fierowarehouse.com

~~~

Some cool progress in the research department...
I had to post a thread What type of air intake tube is this? to find the air duct for this intake.
And bc12dJohn was there with an exact match to the GM ducts you see on it's prototypes:

quote Originally posted by bc12dJohn: on the other thread That is a product which is used extensively in aircraft. Probably the most popular brand is Aeroduct. There are several grades, however, the orange color indicates this is either 'SCAT' or 'SCEET'. They both are made from a silicone impregnated material, for use in temperatures from about -70 to over 550F. SCAT is made of a single layer with a wire inside to hold it's shape. SCEET has an inner and outer layer with the wire between them. We have used both kinds for intake ducting on all sizes of aircraft. Maybe SCEET is a superior product, but we use mostly SCAT. A good source is: Aircraft Spruce, toll free line is 877-477-7823, or www.aircraftspruce.com. Pricey, but good stuff. Hope this helps. That's a wild intake system! bc12dJohn '86 SE, L67 '46 Taylorcraft, BC12D (airplane)

bc12dJohn, you really hit the nail on the head AWESOME reply and of course a + for you

http://www.aircraftspruce.c...og/appages/sceet.php

quote Posted on www.aircraftspruce.com : Aeroduct "SCEET" type ducting has two plies of silicone rubber impregnated fiberglass similar to SCAT except wire between plies. Sold by the foot. Features: Highly flexible and can be easily installed around obstructions and sharp bends. Has less friction loss than similar non-lined ducting. Applications: Ideal for use in conducting extremely cold or hot air at temperatures ranging from -80°F to +550°F, and for conveying fumes. Not recommended for applications involving liquids or highly abrasive materials, or for negative pressure applications.

Exactly what I'm looking for
I could have spent all night on Google and not find it...This is why I love this forum.

~~~

Further more, I've received a PM from cloons411 mentioning that the Indy 3rd brake lens looks like the lens from an 97-98 Eagle Talon. I think it's worth looking into it.



Thank you all

The saga continues

After driving with this setup for a little while I've disassembled it to inspect the condition of the components:

- The outer strip of the decklid was pressing against the tube slightly.
- Top scoop bolt was pressing onto the tube
- The tube has ripped at the connection to the air box
- The metal wire in the tube has scratched the upper plenum

So I had to figure out some solutions:

- Trim the outer strip and the scoop bolt + paint.


- I have found this 180 plastic air intake elbow on some import car (honestly I didn't even look what it was) and it should connect the T.B to the flex tube and look better.


- Drilled an installation hole for another GM IAT sensor, and the stock cable actually reaches the new location no problem


- Got a 3" - 2 3/4" ID Silicon tube to bridge the connection between the air box and flex tube - This should prevent the scratches on the upper plenum.


- This is how the newly desigened setup looks. The plastic elbow has allowed for a proper location for the IAT and also an outlet of clean air for the PCV air feed.


The new setup installed and running.

As you can see in the picture, the Isuzu shifter cables are in the way and had to be tied away from the T.B (I'll have to figure a better solution for that as well - Maybe a Getrag LOL)

I still plan on getting the Aeroduct mentioned above to improve this setup even further.

More test driving to do now

Nice Work Mister, that set-up looks very clean, almost makes me want to put one on the SE now

Your scoop setup should be perfect for an Ecotec swap.
Look at this guy's setup, the throttle body is in just the right spot!


When I get my swap done I will have to try it out.

quote Originally posted by DustoneGT: Your scoop setup should be perfect for an Ecotec swap...

You are right Dustone, it's almost centered under the decklid and could be effective for this setup. Better then the "hot air" setup he's got.

Keep us posted here if you go for it

~~~~

In other news, in my recent trip to the mountains I've got 430KM out of 35 liters of fuel. This was about 50/50 highway and normal road driving. That is 8.1 Liter / 100Km (29 MPG) on my V6 5sp. My average so far was 10 Liter / 100 KM (23.5 MPG) I don't know yet if the Indy setup is influencing it, but no complains here

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 12-22-2008).]

Could not wait any more...Found a nice sunny day where the temps were just above 0*C...Took the T-Tops off and went for a drive.
I must say that the first time I've gave it some power I was AMAZED by the "new" engine sound. I could not stop myself simply laughing out loud.
What I heard was (to my understanding) the internal combustion in the engine amplified by the scoop's design. It sounds like nothing I've heard before - Music to my ears!!!



(Video taken with iPhone cam - Audio at peak is distorted)

------------------

T-Top ~HUD~LEDs ~Indy Scoop~Carputer~Reverse lights

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 02-23-2009).]

Sounds pretty badass in my opinion

WOW, That came out great!

Congrats on a job well done.

I love it.. way to go.. watching that last video kept reminding me of the movie the road warrior... lots of open road driving.. nice work on it all around.

That sounds GREAT! I like it!

Is your scoop exactly like the one sold on thefierowarehouse?

quote Originally posted by Tusch: Sounds pretty badass in my opinion

quote Originally posted by jsketcham: I love it.. way to go.. watching that last video kept reminding me of the movie the road warrior... lots of open road driving.. nice work on it all around.

Thank you both.

quote Originally posted by Oreif: WOW, That came out great! Congrats on a job well done.

Oreif, I always valued your opinion - coming from you that's a great compliment.

quote Originally posted by Bradley Jay: That sounds GREAT! I like it! Is your scoop exactly like the one sold on thefierowarehouse?

Thanks, to my knowledge The the Fiero warehouse sells the scoop from the original mold and should be the same.
Mine came from a place in Toronto that most likely uses the same design. I've opened up the scoop and installed the honeycomb mesh.

Sounds pretty good.

Now I wonder if the pitch of the sound can be tuned by adding different materials/linings. I'd love a higher pitch sounds. :-p

quote Originally posted by Austrian Import: Sounds pretty good. Now I wonder if the pitch of the sound can be tuned by adding different materials/linings. I'd love a higher pitch sounds. :-p

Interesting idea, should be possible just like any other "resonating box" however I like it "a la natural"
I am still surprised how much of engine grunt I could hear from the intake side. It must be the biggest noise upgrade I've done since adding the 80series muffler.
I wonder why people with a CRX intake dont hear it as well. I guess it's the fact it's just above the open T roof.

The original lift strut mechanism would not work with my application, so I have to improvise a bracket to raise the strut base to a level where it won't touch the air filter. It's WIP

(Excuse the looks of the Fiero, I was "off roading" again LOL)

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 03-31-2009).]