I finally got a chance to work on my very first Fiero today- 85 GT.

The car was broken into before I purchased it and both door locks were ruined. I ordered the complete lock set (3 locks) from the Fierostore keyed alike.

Before I started this project I read my Pontiac 85 Fiero manual regarding locks and some of the threads here on the subject.

I removed the driver?s side door skin first along with detaching the manual mirror remote. I carefully peeled back the paper liner.

The first clip requiring removal was not a big deal; it is the small clip that connects the lock tumbler to a plate, which connects to the lock cylinder rod. This clip will be trashed when you remove it but a new one is included with the locks. Be sure you have replacements since it is doubtful you will get the clip off in reusable condition. One of mine was rusty the other not. The clips crack very easily regardless.

Now the hard part, or what WAS the hard part. I knew I had to remove the large "lock cylinder retainer". I read in the threads here that it could be pulled off with long nose pliers or pried off. I tried both methods with zero success. Lets just say it took me another 1.5 hours and a dremel tool to remove the old lock.

But things got worse. I installed the fresh lock, it fits in from the INSIDE. But there was no way I could produce enough perpendicular controlled force to install the lock retainer clip (the larger clip).

So I decided (what I will call a support block), located just to the left of the lock needed to be removed. It is attached to the door with a hex head screw from the exterior located under the molding.

You need to:

Remove the end molding plastic retainer; push it out from the inside of the door.
Detach the molding from one or two center molding clips. (I broke two, they were so brittle from age and heat easy to replace later)
Remove the now exposed hex head screw. Don't forget to remove this screw!
Slide out the "support block" working again from the inside of the door.

Now you have room to work!

To make the removal and installation of the lock cylinder retainer clip EASY all you need is one framing shim. A framing shim is a piece of wood that is about 15" long fat end is 1/4" thick; the thin end is maybe 1/64". The shim is about 1 1/4" wide. It is a wedge- I am sure you know of these.
Place the FAT end of the shim horizontally in the door and against the lock cylinder. Then slide the lock cylinder retaining clip between the door metal and the shim.
The clip will self index, as long as it is not bent out of shape. Using a large flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer tap the shim into place locking the cylinder in the door. Remove the shim. Install the small clip to connect the tumbler to the plate (of which I have no part name). Reinstall the plastic support block and outer molding, and inside skin.

The removal of the second lock took me 15 minutes using this method. I had the second door finished in 1/2 hour.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE OUTER DOOR SKIN! I considered that, and almost put the car up for sale on Crags list! All you need is one little piece of shim stock, (btw I tried a wooden paint stir stick and they are slightly too thin) and remove that obstructing plastic block thingy.

The lock retaining clip is mostly impossible to move with a void behind it. I could not get enough force perpendicular to the lock cylinder to free the clip. With a solid created suport base behind the clip most of the force IS perpendicular to the lock and the clip has to slide off. And it does with ease.

See this thread for GREAT images on the parts involved in this project. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088515.html
My image is not the best; I should have taken a couple with the shim in position. All you need to remember is the shim should fit snug, fill the void behind the clip and is positioned fully up against the lock cylinder.




This image is of the passenger door.


I hope this saves someone from frustrations changing locks.

sparx22

[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 10-18-2008).]

how is that lil black thing removed? I can't seem to figure it out.

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1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor

Are you speaking of the clip which holds in the lock cylinder?
Jim

I think he's talking about the support block.

quote Originally posted by ly41181: I think he's talking about the support block.

I believe it slides out toward the front of the car. I removed 3 of those and I do recall it was easily slid out. I know it was not difficult.

EDIT: There is one screw under the exterior molding that needs to be removed to release that support, sorry I just remembered that now.
sparx22

[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 10-18-2008).]

thats a good tip. thanks. to slide it forward, is that on the passenger side or drivers side door.

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1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor

quote Originally posted by americasfuture2k: thats a good tip. thanks. to slide it forward, is that on the passenger side or drivers side door.

Either side slides forward, rememeber to remove the screw under the exterior molding strip first.
I did have is listed in the first post here properly to remove that screw.
You can use two wooden paint stirs stacked for the shim if you don't have framing shims btw.
sparx22

the paint stirrers sounds easier to find than the framing shim at a place like lowes, home depot, and ace.

haha, and good one on make the "remove screw" in red. i definantly over looked that one if you didnt hafe it mentioned there before. if you did, then my drain bamage is my excuse :P thanks for all your help tho.

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1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor

2k

Yes get 3 of those WOODEN stirs, you most likely will need only two, or two with a thin piece of cardboard to get it just about perfect. Home Depot and Lowes should have shim stock also.
I cannot comprehend how people get the clip INSTALLLED without some type of support behind that clip as this shim provides perfect alignment with the slots in the lock cylinder. This is one of those simple projects with unpredictable complexity and maddening frustration.
You will agree I think after you complete the project.
jim

sparx, i went to lowes and got some. they only had them in a bundle of like 40 or so. since i only needed one, the rest looked good n dry enuff to use in my fireplace when i want a romantic nite with a chick that likes to burn things.

aside from that, i got the thing in finally!! god i feel so happy and a lil more secure about my car being in a shotty area.

i agree with you on all of the said above.
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1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 10-18-2008).]

Glad you got it done 2K.
Yes, shims are good kindling.