quote Originally posted by DIY_Stu: I figured out the "State of the art" I believe there's 4 relays inside the module. If not then he's using some digital stuff. But this can be done with 3 SPDT and 1 DPDT relays. The cost of the module is right in line with what I would even charge for it so I can't save you money. But I did draw it out. If for any reason he stops selling them then I'll post that up so you can make your own.

All DRL modules I have seen are using a pulse width modulator type of circuit. They could be made out of relay's, but you could not control the brightness - normally, DRL do not run at 100% intensity, more along the lines of 60-80%.

I remember hearing of somewhere (maybe in Europe somewhere) that its illegal to use headlites in town at night...they demand you use only parking lights. Also heard in London you pay $50 @ day for driving gas guzzlers in the city. I would be all for every new car having auto headlites that come on by themselves....I see dumbazzes all the time driving at night with no lights, especially when its raining.

quote Originally posted by BIGG_SEXXY: I'm not worried about laws, I could care less about that **** . I know a cop that will right that fix it ticket off like nothing. Anyways thanx

Would you drive with dipped headlights on in daytime fog?

I have been looking around the forum the last couple days for how to give a fiero
stock looking DRL. I found the link http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm that sells a solid
state kit for $39.95 but it is in the US and living here in Canada shipping would have been an extra cost on top.

Hmmm... I asked myself. Can I make one with some of the pieces of crap I always seem
to have laying around?

Short answer... Yes
Long answer.. see below:

Here is what the stock front turn signal diagram for an 85 Fiero looks like:



Here is the diagram I drew up using two standard Bosch #(12077864 B00) relays, six
diodes and two capacitors merged with the original stock turn signal diagram to show
the complete modification:



Here's how the DRL system works:

The top relay of the two relays (relay 1) on the left of the modification diagram is there to provide
+ 12 volts in Run for DRL system power and to turn the DRL system off if the park lights or
headlights are turned on. The bottom relay of the two relays (relay 2) on the left of the modification
diagram gets it power from the turn signal system when either side signal is turned on.
It is there to turn the DRL system off when the turn signals are on.

Diodes 1 and 2 (1N5404 diode) isolate the left turn signal circuit from the right turn signal circuit.
Because they both have to connect at a single point on relay 2 to trigger it.

Diodes 3 and 4 (1N5404 diode) isolate the + 12 supply fed to the turn signal filaments when the DRL system is activated.

Diodes 5 and 6 (1N5404 diode) isolate the turn signal + 12 supply from the + 12 supply of the DRL system.

When you signal, both sides of the DRL system are turned off and the two 3300uF
capacitors across the relay coil provide an approximate 2 second delay before the DRL
system comes back on. (Less capacitance will shorten this time)

I think it is a nice transition time wise. Since only the signal light for the side
you are turning to is on during turn signal mode it is impossible for someone not to
see you signal or think you are signalling to turn the other way if they just glance.

I don't know how much extra heat is generated inside the front turn signal fixtures
with the turn signal filaments always on. I will do some temp measurements and see
what I get over various lengths of operation times.

I'm guessing that the plastic fixtures could melt down but I don't know for sure yet.
I have heard of this happening on a early 90's Camaro when the owner did a similar
mod using volatge regulators instead of relays.

Here's the link:
http://oregonstate.edu/~byerss/FTRL.html

His diagram shows that he had both the signal and park filaments connected when in
DRL mode. That would up the wattage 7 watts more per side than I am using.
Only time will tell.

There is a big wiring harness in the front cargo bay that runs in between the master
cylinder and the left front wheel well. In that harness you should find all the wires
you need to connect the DRL system. (At least I did on my 85 SE) It took a little
trial and measurement to locate the right wires but all the wire colours are in the
diagrams I have posted here.

I used a toggle switch in the cabin on the + 12 volts in Run line so that I could
shut the DRL system off whenever I wanted to. I did not include this switch in my
modification diagram.

The BRN/WHT + 12 volts wire (Hot In Run) that feeds the coil in the relay before the coolant fan (not the BLK/RED
wire that goes to the coolant fan) may serve for this feed if you need to use it.
If you use the BRN/WHT + 12 volts wire that feeds the coil in the coolant fan relay for (Hot In Run) power.
Please bear in mind that this line has a 10 Amp fuse in the fuse block.
This should be large enough to power the coil in the coolant fan relay and the DRL system.
It might be close though, so I would caution against using this line for power.

I used a dedicated 10 Amp fused line fron the ignition terminal at the fuse block through a
toggle switch for my installation and I recommend you do the same.
It would be a bad situation if the coolant fan doesn't come on when you need it to

Please read the disclaimer at the bottom of this post.
I solder and heatshrink every connection/splice I make. If you don't. That is your
choice. I believe crimp connections are prone to long term failure and should never
be used.

Disclaimer:
Try this modification at your own risk. This much I know... It works!

I live in Canada so please no speeches about whether this is legal or not. Up here we
like to see who is coming at us and like to be seen when we are coming at you. Heck,
we even have laws that make DRL systems mandatory on new vehicles, eh.

Cheers,
Sidecar 2M6 SE

[This message has been edited by Sidecar 2M6 SE (edited 11-23-2008).]