I don't have much A/C experience so I'm sure someone can tell me. I want to put a new accumulator and orifice tube in my car before I attempt a retrofit. Should I get an automatic adjusting orifice tube?
It's located almost right in the center of the trunk low down on the firewall. There is a horz. hose about 8-10 inches long with a coupler at each end. It's inside that hose.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-03-2008).]
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02:25 PM
FieroBrad87 Member
Posts: 743 From: Nevada, Iowa, United States Registered: Dec 2005
OK, so I put the accumulator on and the orifice in and I started charging the system. First I didn't get enough in it because the low side was at about 26 pounds and the high side was around 125 pounds. I bought another can and continued charging, when that can was empty the low side showed no pressure on the gauge and the high side was around 200 pounds or so, when I got back to the house the low side was up to 40 or 45. Does it sound like I've got something plugging the system? I've got a big rear cradle project coming and I think I'll just tear the system apart and flush it and replace all the O rings. Any advice is appreciated!
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11:28 PM
FieroBrad87 Member
Posts: 743 From: Nevada, Iowa, United States Registered: Dec 2005
Don't miss the one often missed o-ring in the system. It's just above the rack on the driver's side under the tire well. When you remove the OT, you tend to torque that connector and it will leak ever so slightly.
Yes, you will hate changing it but you will hate it more when it keeps leaking vacuum slowly and you can't figure out why.
[This message has been edited by TK (edited 08-05-2008).]
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12:12 AM
FieroBrad87 Member
Posts: 743 From: Nevada, Iowa, United States Registered: Dec 2005
Well, when I took the accumulator off and the orifice tube out it evacuated to some extent. I tested it tonight and it has a low and high side pressue but it isn't holding so I did a marvelous job of wasting 50 bucks. I'm going to flush it and change all the O rings and I'll have my mechanic vacuum it down and fill it.
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01:33 AM
FieroBrad87 Member
Posts: 743 From: Nevada, Iowa, United States Registered: Dec 2005
Don't miss the one often missed o-ring in the system. It's just above the rack on the driver's side under the tire well. When you remove the OT, you tend to torque that connector and it will leak ever so slightly.
Yes, you will hate changing it but you will hate it more when it keeps leaking vacuum slowly and you can't figure out why.
What is "OT"?
Is there a way to buy the O rings I need or am I going to have to buy some sort of a collection of O rings?
[This message has been edited by FieroBrad87 (edited 08-05-2008).]
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01:34 AM
Tanlrat Member
Posts: 154 From: Buckeye, AZ, USA Registered: May 2008
Yes -- go with the "adjusting" orifice tube -- the delivery of cold air is more consistent on blazing hot days!
According to one expert over at Arizona Mobile Air; "A VOV is as useless as mammary glands on a chain link fence"
The consensus in that forum is that the VOV does not work and can cause problems. Here’s a quote from the FAQ’s:
quote
VOV Valve:
I thought this was very interesting. It was stated that when using a VOV valve that a systems refrigerant level ““must”” be adjusted! How much depends on vehicle performance itself and not a set amount. So you could be adding or removing refrigerant for hours before you get proper cooling. Also if there is a small leak in the system this would then effect the charge level creating a improper charge level for the VOV valve, thus poor cooling. It was stated that all OEM attempts to use a VOV valve were stopped. I think someone somewhere in design may still be working with them but it sounds like this is not really an option we will see in future vehicles.
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12:49 PM
FieroBrad87 Member
Posts: 743 From: Nevada, Iowa, United States Registered: Dec 2005
If your mechanic is 609 certified, use the stock white OT and use R12. I wouldn't use a variable OT even with R134. If you need to use R134, I would still stick with the white OT but clean your condenser well outside. You might consider a pusher fan if the cooling isn't enough at real low speeds.
If you are hell-bent on a smaller OT use only the yellow. Don't go any smaller.
Napa sells an AC O-ring kit for the Fiero that has every one you need (with some spares). Cheap.
[This message has been edited by TK (edited 08-05-2008).]
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02:18 PM
FieroBrad87 Member
Posts: 743 From: Nevada, Iowa, United States Registered: Dec 2005
If your mechanic is 609 certified, use the stock white OT and use R12. I wouldn't use a variable OT even with R134. If you need to use R134, I would still stick with the white OT but clean your condenser well outside. You might consider a pusher fan if the cooling isn't enough at real low speeds.
If you are hell-bent on a smaller OT use only the yellow. Don't go any smaller.
Napa sells an AC O-ring kit for the Fiero that has every one you need (with some spares). Cheap.
He's certified but he doesn't do R12 anymore. Thanks for the info, I'm checking on an HR-6 from RockAuto to make sure it has a V pulley on it. I'm going to flush the system properly and the new pump will be clean and get fresh oil.
[This message has been edited by FieroBrad87 (edited 08-05-2008).]
DA-6s die with 134a, you REALLY want the HR-6, dont flush the condensor or the evaporator as you can't(you will never get all the flush out) the condensor is dual core so flushing is impossible and the evap has a resivor that will just hold the flush in it. BTW where in Nevada are you from?
So there's no point in flushing it? The pump didn't explode so I'm not trying to get shrapnel out.
I'm in Iowa. Nevada, Iowa. You can't tell from the different pronunciation? Like Nevada, Missouri.
well you can flush the lines BUT make sure you disconnect them from both sides I usaly just flush the line comming from the compresor, it comes out up front at the condensor. but with no shrapnel or black death, just use ester oil and you should be fine. I also found you only need the use about 2 cans of 134a, I charge up to about around 50psi with the heat here, less with lower heat temps. 100 deg+ and it blows cold as hell. (edit) also don't flush through the, damn I forget the name kinda drunk, can on the line by the compressor.
also make sure to keep any receipts for the OT and accumulator. as about all warranties require you buy a new OT and accumulator for the compressor or they wont honer it if it fails. Just FYI. besides you always want a new OT and accumulator as the accumulator asorbs moisture and is pretty much used up as soon as the system is opened and over time. and autozone has them for like $11 now they got cheap.
Like Nevada, Missouri.
