Since the clutch fluid in my 86 looks like mud and I can't get the line off the slave cylinder I'm thinking maybe I should just put a line on it at the same time. Any advice?

you are useing a correct flare nut wrench?
[ the kind with the extra bits on the sides ]

the part is all one piece clutch master to slave and is a bwitch to get in
and costs about $150

bleed out the old fluid, do the brakes too at the same time
old fluid traps water and that causes RUST
but I see no need to replace a nonleaking line

worst case if you break the line or muck up the nut
buy or rent a flaring tool and union to splice on a short bit of new line

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Question wonder and be wierd
are you kind?

I bought a set of line wrenches but of course it's the one that isn't in the set, like a 14mm I think. I'm going to bleed it out good tomorrow with dad.

Yes I believe its a 14mm

Instead of replaing the line, flush it with some rubbing alcohol and all is good

If you do break the clutch line, you can purchase Rodney Dickman's repair line kit. It has about a foot of solid line and the flexible braided end. All you'd need do is take a tubing cutter, cut the original and the replacement to the correct lengths, then screw them together. Don't use a hacksaw to cut the line off. It fills the system with metal filings. Some hobby shops, especially RC hobby shops, carry small tubing cutters that can easily be turned around the tubing in tight quarters.

Changing this line is no treat. Get the right size flare wrench, it will make all the difference in the world.

I had the SAME issue on an 86 GT. I was referred to Rodney Dickman dot com where he sells a "kit" to correct it. You basically just replace about a foot of the line and use a pressure fitting. I have also added a clutch line to an auto/stick conversion and it was no fun. Hope this helps

quote Originally posted by psychosurfer: I had the SAME issue on an 86 GT. I was referred to Rodney Dickman dot com where he sells a "kit" to correct it. You basically just replace about a foot of the line and use a pressure fitting. I have also added a clutch line to an auto/stick conversion and it was no fun. Hope this helps

yup - I'm usin g this kit right now - easy hook up - and just like he said - replaces with new flexable hose & about 1 foot of hard line.
anyways - before that - soak with PB Blaster - or whatever your fav penetrating lube is. but - being a "rust-belt" car - I know that even should the nut come loose - there is still the question of if the line will come loose from the nut. Rodneys kit is always available - so dont worry about getting stuck.

I found the threaded fittings are obsolete. The threads are an odd size.

I went down to Hose Tech with the old line which I took out, and got a stainless braided and teflon core line with conversion fittings to fit the thread, for about $100. The line is superior to the OE line and looks better also.

As for the OE line, you do not want to replace it with another OE line. The line was apparently installed at the factory before the steering assembly and it is a total bear to get back in. It was not easy to take out.

The Rodney fix is the best way if you aren't replacing the whole line.

If you look underneath and the line if very rusty, you might consider a total replacement. If not, the repair kit will do it fine.

Arn

Done. The line looks like it's been replaced in the past. I put a 14mm open end wrench on the line at the slave cylinder and it turned so I blew the line out and put the new slave cylinder on. It's got so much clutch pedal now I'm having to relearn how to drive it. Screwed up the paint on the fender a little.