ok i did some searching and i couldnt find what i was looking for. and also i dont think im using the search properly. every time i search it eather searching just one word and it lists so many other threads totally not even on topic. on how to remove it. really frusterating. maybe someone can help me give out some tips???
anyways back to topic. how do you remove the CV joint or axle off the transmission. i need to remove the transmission to do the clutch and i want to clean it up to. get rid of the dirt and all. make it look nice anyways im thinking of doing the bearings and stuff as well. i lost my manual book so i cant really use it at the moment to find out. and i also dont want to break anything. does it just slide right out of the transmission? or should i just keep them on when doing the Clutch?
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04:39 AM
PFF
System Bot
mrfiero Member
Posts: 9003 From: Colorful Colorado Registered: Mar 99
Unless you're dropping the entire cradle, it is easier to remove the transmission with the axles out of the way. Once you have it loose from the knuckle, the end in the transmission should pop out with a pry bar. There is a small clip at the end of the splines that keeps it from backing out, so a little force is needed (sometimes they feel as though they're welded in place).
I just used a small pry bar and popped it out at the transmission. But you will have to have the other end of the axle loose or there wont be enough play in the axle to remove it.
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05:43 AM
Racing_Master Member
Posts: 1460 From: Hooksett, NH, USA Registered: Nov 2007
Easily removable, as said before, a small pry bar does the trick. Remove the hub side of the CV axle first. I usually disconnect the Chapman strut and using a dead blow hammer (after removing the axle nut) to lightly and safely knock the axle loose out of the hub. dropping the knuckle down a bit can give you enough clearance to pull it out of the hub. I usually leave the lower ball joint attached for this. If you are just going to pull the cradle anyway, pull the cradle first with the struts and everything, this will give you lots of room to fudge with the CV axles. Sometimes the CV axles can just be pulled out of the transmission, carefully and when grabbing onto the plunge joint. rarely this works, so have a large screw driver or small pry bar handy to remove the plunge joint from the transmission.
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06:21 AM
sjmaye Member
Posts: 2468 From: Hendersonville, TN USA Registered: Jun 2003
The trick that did it for me was to make sure I was prying on both sides of the axle at the same time. It was kind of awkward, but it did the trick for me. Popped right out.
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07:58 AM
josef644 Member
Posts: 6939 From: Dickinson, Texas USA Registered: Nov 2006
I have a large cresent wrench thatI open up to fit over he rear between the inside part of the axel and the transmission case. Then just hit the handle with my hand and out she comes. I have done six this way. All were very easy. Joe Crawford Texas
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10:53 AM
joshh44 Member
Posts: 2166 From: Nanaimo, B.C, Canada Registered: Aug 2007
thank you so much i have the cradle dropped already. im feeling very sick so i havnt been able to do anything this whole week ill try that large cresent wrench you said. i have some very large ones. ill see if that works.
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05:00 PM
jimbolaya Member
Posts: 10652 From: Virginia Beach, Virginia Registered: Feb 2007
Not always so easy. It should be, but not always. Here is my thread on axle removal and all the trials and tribulations I had. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/090375.html Slipper toe pry bars were the answer. I swear by them now.
When you pull out the axles does much fluid run out?
The transmission should be drained before the axles are removed.
** Warning ** Be careful while prying to remove the axles. If you lever against the axle seal, you will damage it and have to replace it. Just make sure the tip of your pry bar is not against the axle seal.
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02:53 PM
joshh44 Member
Posts: 2166 From: Nanaimo, B.C, Canada Registered: Aug 2007
i havnt had time to take it out yet. i gotta see my old friend i havnt seen in many years. so it will be interesting.
if there is time when i get back ill drain out the fluid. probably wont hurt to replace it anyways i got the driver side rear spring bundle shock thinger out. making work easyer. im going to remove the break calipar, rotor, and whatever else that will be in the way of working. by the way. is it possible to replace the rear main seal if the engine is not taken apart? i never done a main seal before. but this engine almost has 200,000 kms on it. i replaced the rings and bearings but not the seal. what procedure do you need to do that? the transmission will be out.. so ill see if iv been leaking alittle oil on the clutch. (last owner told me he replaced the clutch not to long ago but its slipping like crazy! thinking that maybe oil is on clutch or the last owner was lieing)
which is why im replacing clutch. and possibly bearings while im at it.
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07:37 PM
PFF
System Bot
jimbolaya Member
Posts: 10652 From: Virginia Beach, Virginia Registered: Feb 2007
Originally posted by Doug85GT: The transmission should be drained before the axles are removed.
** Warning ** Be careful while prying to remove the axles. If you lever against the axle seal, you will damage it and have to replace it. Just make sure the tip of your pry bar is not against the axle seal.
You should replace the axle seal anyways regardless. They cost $5.
Jim
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10:51 PM
Jul 25th, 2008
joshh44 Member
Posts: 2166 From: Nanaimo, B.C, Canada Registered: Aug 2007