So I've been attempting to change my rear brake pads for the last two hours. I've followed every step in my Haynes manual in tearing the stuff apart, and now that I've got the brake pads in, the caliper won't fit onto the rotor/disc. In other words, it appears as thought the pads I bought were too thick...

I've disconnected the e-brake, and depressed the caliper cylinder as much as I could, and with the pads in place it still won't slide back onto the rotor/disc.

I need an additional 3/16 of an inch or so for it to fit... Am I missing something or does the cylinder depress more?? I'm in college and home for the weekend and hope to finish it by tomorrow...

I am guess you are running in to the emergency brake screw adjuster inside the caliper. It has been about 10 years since I had to mess with one, but as I remember you have to turn the caliper piston to get it to compress back in to the bore. Once done you should have plenty of room for your rotor to slide in.

On the pre-88's I think the pistons have two indentions on them. I took my long needle nosed pliers, pushed them in to the indentions and turned CCW (I think).

You have to turn the pistons in - not press them in.
Paul

i hope u didnt push the piston back in with force, ive seen that lockup calipiers before...

You need to remove the e-brake lever from the caliper in order to compress the piston inward. No, I didn't turn the piston in on my 87 or 86 rear brakes but you may need to on the 88's which i haven't worked on yet.

I have found many after market pads that were too thick for the rear when the piston was all the way in. I finally just started using GM pads and they fit fine. When the piston is in, there is a slight gap.

At the same time, you really do need to get the piston all the way in to have a hope with even the GM pads.

One other problem that occasionally comes up, is a belt of rust along the outer edge of the rotor if you are re-using old ones. The pads wear a groove just inside the edge of the rotor, and the outer edge develops rust that can get in the way of re-installing your new pads.

I usually have to wiggle the caliper assembly around to get it over the slight edge whenever I'm retaining old rotors.

Thanks guys. I noticed the book said I would have to turn the piston if it were an '88, but mine is an '86. But I guess I'll try to turn them in.

you could take the rotors in and get then shaved down atad to remove the rust lip and any groves on the rotor. might give you that little extra room to slide on the pads.
least there not drum breaks. i hate thos. i can never seem to ever get the drum back on once i put the new breaks on. ever.

Yep, you always have to turn in the rear pistons on all Fieros, or remove the arm on the back of the caliper and push them in instead. There are pegs on the backs of the pads that go against the rear caliper pistons that engage notches or recesses on the piston face itself so that the piston can't turn in normal use. Make sure that those tabs/slots/etc are properly engaged or the pad will be pushed out far enough to prevent getting the rotor back in.

JazzMan

I've done both turning and pressing. Turning worked somewhat but I didn't get enough to get the pads past the rotor's edge. I always had to remove the lever and press it in.

quote Originally posted by Enix: Thanks guys. I noticed the book said I would have to turn the piston if it were an '88, but mine is an '86. But I guess I'll try to turn them in.

Don'tcha' just LOVE a Haynes manual?!?
Paul

At least the photos don't say "Courtesy of Ford", Your car will be something remotely like this, kinda a bit....